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Nurburgring Nordschleife Guide - Need for Speed: Shift
###############################################################################

By Mike Kimball
Version 1.0, April 30, 2010

########
CONTENTS
########

Copyright Notice
Contact The Author
Foreword
Acknowledgements
Version Updates

The Car
  Driving Options
  Tuning
Game Equipment
  G25 Pedal Mod (for use with DFP wheel)
Shoes - On or Off?
Left-Foot Braking
Driving Tips That Have Helped Me Go Faster

Nordschleife - Step by Step
  (Includes all corner names)

Addendum 1 - lap milestones
Addendum 2 - experimentation

================
COPYRIGHT NOTICE
================

Copyright 2010 Mike Kimball
Intended for private, personal, and educational usage only.
Originally written to be displayed on www.gamefaqs.com.

Please notify me if you've posted it somewhere else.

All trademarks and copyrights contained in this document are owned by
their respective trademark and copyright holders.

==================
Contact The Author
==================

I welcome email from fellow 'Ring fans anytime.  Please mention this
guide in the subject.

Send to bloodmetalcontent at yahoo dot com.

========
Foreword
========

"For a quick lap at the Nurburgring, you've probably experienced more in
seven minutes and six or seven seconds than most people have experienced
in all their lives in the way of fear, in the way of tension, in the way 
of animosity towards machinery and to a racetrack."
--Jackie Stewart, 1973

First of all, as the game disclaimer states, the game may differ from real
life in terms of the cars and tracks in appearance and handling, and thus
the information in this guide also may differ from your real car in real life.
I've done one passenger lap in the Zakspeed Viper, so there are certainly
others far better suited to give advice on attacking this very challenging
and dangerous circuit in person.

By the time I visited the Nurburgring in late August 2007 I had turned
600 laps in GT4 and watched many different dvds of in-car footage.
This familiarity with the track layout deepened the experience for me - the
thrill is greatly increased when corners no longer all look the same and you
know what is coming up next.  Even with quite a lot of traffic we went BTG
in 8'20 (traffic-corrected, our average speed was over 90mph, and I'm fairly
certain we were going about 175 in Kesselchen).  That Zakspeed Viper is truly
amazing - the news that they went bankrupt and closed in December 2009 was
just devastating, as was the news that the #2 Viper was involved in a big
accident and had been written off...

In 2008 I spent 9 days at the Bertil Roos road racing school, including
visits to VIR, NJ Motorsports, and Pocono North.  The great thing about
actual racing is how much sooner you sense the car reacting to your inputs -
especially moments where the weight transfer might start to get you in trouble.
When you've only driven street cars and racing simulators, driving a formula
2000 car on a real race circuit is a revelation.  As Lewis Black has joked,
"Oh, so this is what cars are *supposed* to do."

When I started playing NFS Shift, I had done over 3700 laps of Nordschleife
in GT4, and I immediately noticed certain differences (improvements) in the
game experience, particularly with elevation changes, car physics, and the
sheer texture variation of the track.  I think NFS is much closer to the
real experience in a lot of ways.  Nevertheless, I'm sure there are still
some differences in terms of grip, power, reliability, and braking, so if
you go there for real, forget about your lap time from the game and just
try to remember what you learned about the track layout.  I don't mean to be
pedantic but it's hard to overstate this point.

This guide is geared for those who seek suggestions to improve their time,
and who have, at the minimum, memorized the track.  I'm not the best or
fastest driver in the world but I do hope this guide can inspire or help you
in some way, as it also helps me continue to evolve.  I wasn't sure if this
would be helpful or necessary since the game does have an "ideal line" that
you can turn on, but I found it to be not as accurate or maybe not the
real best or fastest line (in some places it positively meanders or is late
on the brakes or late back on the gas).  I kept wondering why my faster
lap times seemed to have a slightly lower "precision" score...

I have only had the game for about two weeks or so at this point, and I've
done just over 60 laps of the Nordschleife in it.  So I expect a certain
amount of evolution and refining will happen shortly.  It's amazing though
how just doing time attacks at the Nurb advances your driver level so
quickly, around 4,000-5,000 points a lap!

================
Acknowledgements
================

I would like to acknowledge some sources which have offered specific
inspiration for this guide: justgofaster.com, Nurburgring for Dummies by
Christopher Heiser, and of course Ben Lovejoy's awesome guide (including the
corner names and the very informative translations/history).  As for other
acknowledgements, I must mention dvds from FIA Formula 1 2000-2008, Best
Motoring International vols. 9-16 and Tsuchiya�s Drift Bible, and Skip Barber's
Going Faster.  Also, much thanks for the In Car 956 dvd featuring Derek Bell
and his commentary of a lap at Nurburgring, and the Nissan GT-R dvd featuring
fantastic laps from 'ringmeister Dirk Schoysman.  And also, the book
"Winning, a Racing Driver's Guide", by George A. Anderson, with guest authors
Carroll Smith and Bertil Roos among others.

Special thanks to all who made it possible for me to visit the Nurburgring
in person at last - our bus driver Max first and foremost for setting it all
up, my former band and crew, especially our tour manager Oise for adding the
Nurburgring day to the schedule, and all at Zakspeed for an amazing
high-speed experience.

And finally, all at Bertil Roos Racing School. No amount of time in a simulator
is as valuable as even one day at a real track, and what I learned from them
has made a huge difference.

This guide is based on my original Nordschleife Speed Guide written for
Gran Turismo 4.

===============
Version Updates
===============

Version 1.0
- Adapted from my Gran Turismo 4 Guide version 2.4, April 2010

=======
The Car
=======

I currently do time attacks in the Zonda R (no upgrades are available)
with several setup tweaks.  I also like to use the Nissan GT-R
Spec V, which I have upgraded to level 3 in weight reduction, tires,
suspension, brakes, etc (no engine or boost upgrades as of yet; I just
wanted better handling).  My other fav cars include the Lotus Elise, and
the Maserati MC12 GT1 loaner car (a fantastic machine with a rating just
over 20, but since it is a loaner car its setup cannot be changed to suit
one's driving style).

Of course every setup is made up of compromises, especially at Nurburgring
where the circuit is incredibly varied so the car setup works great in some
sections but not as well in others.  The setup you use might vary according
to your driving style as it applies to different situations on the course.

Ultimately the car setup can seem to help or hinder you depending on how you
are driving that day, so its effects should be considered less important than
the ability to adjust one's driving style.  Nurburgring Nordschleife is
probably the best example of how crucial this adaptability is to getting
around the track in one piece, let alone setting a fast time.  There is a
reason some drivers get paid more than others - it's because the driving is
still the single most important factor in going faster.

That said, here are my adjustments and times for reference...

Driving Options
---------------
This is by far the most important area to get dialed in before you start
to expect any level of performance in NFS Shift.

I was in absolute driving hell for my first week and 30 laps or so.  I kept
wondering why the cars handled so bad - steering, braking, throttle: none
of these made the car do quite what I wanted, and I was constantly
struggling with a recalcitrant car that was reluctant to trace the intended
line and couldn't go near the edges of the track without squirming off
into the grass or barriers.

Then I found that the default settings in the Driving Options were
apparently not set for those who prefer more of a precise, simulation type
experience.  You can actually set the driving options for a wide spectrum
of handling styles - from a really arcadey feel, to simulation feel; from
slow and mellow to beyond twitchy.

Here are the changes that helped me get the cars under control so I could
have the confidence to be on the limit, therefore increasing the driving
pleasure immensely.  At least now I feel 99% there.  These settings work
for me regardless of what type of car I'm driving.

Adjust Control...
Dead Zones:
Steering      0%
Acceleration  0%
Braking       0%

Sensitivity:
Steering     72%
Acceleration 85%
Braking      17%
Speed Steer   0%

FF           10
Turn Lock   360
Inv Shift   off
Camera y    normal

Driving...
Handling Model: Pro
ABS:            off
TC:             off
SC:             off
Damage Effects: full
Gears:          manual

Tuning
------
Again, I think because the defaults are designed to make the car more
stable, it results in making the car difficult to drive in the sense
that it tends to be too soft for racing.

I have to admit I am still playing on an old CRT TV, so some of
the numbers are a bit hard to read; so I will indicate where the slider
is and not necessarily the value it represents.

Generally I find the MR or RR cars need a ton of increase in the diff
to control the rear when accelerating out of corners, while FR cars
seem fine with what I would consider a more normal number (40ish).
At least that's the case in NFS Shift, for me.  Increasing the diff
on the Zonda alone amounted to a 5-second a lap improvement. However
it does affect the power negatively sometimes.

Here are the changes I made to make the Zonda R handle as I like:

Tires...
Soften the rear tires one click

Alignment...
Zero toe front and rear

Springs...
Sway (0-8 slider): F sway 4, R sway 5
Springs (0-6 sliders): FSR 2, RSR 1, FDSB 1, RDSB 2, FDFB 2, RDFB 3
FDSR 4, RDSR 5, FDFR 5, RDFR 5

Diff...
Accel 85, Decel 40, Pre 60, Elec 10

Gearing...
Final 1 click left of center, 6th 1 click left of center

Aero...
Full cornering front and rear

Personal record (Zonda R): 6'26.563 (NFS Lap 63)
Personal record (Maserati MC12 loaner car, locked default): 6'29.072

==============
Game Equipment
==============

If you are using the PS2 controller to drive the car, I can only say best of
luck.  Any wheel you could get would probably make you faster.

My current setup:
Logitech Driving Force Pro wheel
Logitech G25 pedals (modified, see below)
Sparco cockpit with a Sienna seat (reclined)

When I first got the Sparco cockpit and G25 wheel, my game improved
dramatically.  Unfortunately the G25 didn't last as long as its price tag so I
switched back to the DFP and I actually enjoy it more.  I think the Sparco
cockpit is what makes the biggest difference.  To me the wheel feels better
and more stable on the DFP, but the pedals are too light.  The pedals are
great on the G25, but they aren't originally compatible with the DFP wheel.

I also recently bought the DF GT wheel and like an idiot I didn't fully check
its compatibility, so to my dismay I found that it doesn't work at all on the
PS2, and it is not supported for PS2 games run on the PS3.  What I found is
that it works for a while, but there's a glitch that causes the throttle very
suddenly to stick wide open and the only way to fix it is to quit the game.
Also, the wheel is like a cross between the G25 features and the DFP materials
- so it is still plastic, with the same pedals as the DFP, but the mechanism
of the G25 wheel (meaning now the wheel AND the pedals are too light).

My original DFP wheel got pretty worn out and did a funny thing where it
goes off center when I run over kerbs or do too vigorous a maneuver... I did
manage to find one "like new" on Amazon and it is just awesome, amazing how
much it makes a difference - the wheel feels heavy and tight again and all of
my personal records improved dramatically as a result.

G25 Pedal Mod (for use with DFP wheel)
--------------------------------------

  The following advice will almost certainly void your warranty, so read on
  only if you don't mind that, and also, don't attempt this unless you are
  fairly good with small electronics and are not taking chances with your
  only game equipment.  I take no responsibility if your workmanship is not
  successful.  This is just my notes on what I did to get mine to work.

To make the G25 pedals work with the DFP wheel takes some rewiring, mainly
because the G25 brake wiring is backwards.  I went to Radio Shack to get
some wiring and connectors. This also requires some tools (a wire stripper,
and a Phillips screwdriver).  I also went to Home Depot for some sticky
Velcro (this is how I fasten the board so that I can get a better adjustment
on the seat, wheel, and pedal board positions).

Basically what I did is take the wiring out of one of my DFP pedal boards,
then bring it with me to buy wiring and connectors that are small enough to
adapt to it.  You'll only need to add a few inches to the length of three
of the wires due to the differing physical layout of the pedal switches.

On the wiring of the switches, you'll see that both pedals have a red and a
black wire on the left and right, plus a third middle wire which is either
white or green.  Here are the configurations that work with the DFP wheel:

DFP pedals original wiring (left to right - connectors on bottom):
  Throttle - single black, green, single red
  Brake - double black, white, double red

G25 pedals (again l-r connectors, right is nearest the red pedal pistons):
  Throttle - double black, white, double red
  Brake - *single red*, green, *single black*

Also, judicious use of electrical tape since the wires aren't grounded like
they are on the wiring loom of the G25 - cover any protruding metal where the
wire could touch; and with cutting/stripping/crimping, make it as clean as
possible.  The smallest wiring and connectors I could find were still a bit
larger than the existing, but I found with some bending I could get a nice
snug fit.  I haven't had any problems in two months of testing, though I did
decide the brake pedal is a bit too stiff, so I switched it with the clutch
pedal (and also, I put this all the way on the left, so there's an empty
space in the middle; this way I don't hit my knees on the underside of the
steering wheel clamps).  Finally, to make the Sparco cockpit accommodate the
pedals and the reclined position, I had to turn the foot panel upside down
and use a great amount of industrial strength sticky velcro... which is nice
because it holds perfectly but is still adjustable.

==================
Shoes - On or Off?
==================

My suggestion is use what you are comfortable with.  At my house we are
shoeless so I got all of my quickest times wearing socks - this seems
to be ideal for the game since it compensates for the lack of feedback and
weight in the pedals.


=================
Left-Foot Braking
=================

Many drivers say this skill is indispensable in racing - and both karting and
Formula 1 pretty much require it.  Even when you are driving a car that has
a clutch, in some situations where no gear shift is needed it can be useful
to employ left-foot braking for stability as well as a quicker braking reaction
time.  I began practicing this extensively in my old car and in the game I
use it exclusively.  Even at racing school in some corners it came in handy.
At this point it has improved my fastest time in pretty much every car, not
to mention making it easier to drive in other conditions (especially rally;
but then real rally drivers are constantly shifting both feet between
brake/gas and brake/clutch). 


==========================================
Driving Tips That Have Helped Me Go Faster
==========================================

First, always bear in mind that as you improve in one section, it changes
your approach to the next, and so on.  All it takes is time, practice, and
gradual improvements in your knowledge of the car and the track. Very often
when you are pushing your limit and going off the track, getting frustrated,
feeling like quitting ;) you are actually just on the verge of making a huge
improvement.  So just remember it's all part of the process of training your
brain and your muscle memory.  Take a rest, come back a few hours or a day
later, and you'll be surprised how easy it suddenly gets.  It was often
the same way when I was learning the guitar.

Next, if you want to improve your lap time, it is crucial to consider the
importance of corner exits over late braking.  Obviously I brake as late
as I can, but braking later improves time in hundredths of a second, while
getting on the throttle earlier for the exit improves your time in tenths.
Remember that the reverse is also true - braking too early loses time in
just hundredths, but braking too late and then getting on the throttle late
loses time in tenths.  I think this is even more apparent in NFS Shift,
generally I find myself having to think about doing everything a lot
earlier than I was used to in GT4.

What this means is you should work backward - get the exit point right first,
then try to improve your entry, then finally polish your braking point.
The correct braking point goes hand in hand with the correct turn-in and 
throttle point however - braking too early often invites turning too early,
which can lead to going off the track at the exit; while braking too
late means you waste a lot of time going past the ideal turn-in and in some
corners you may not make the turn at all.  The simplest thing I try to remember
is that the lap time is essentially the sum of throttle and braking, and the
finish line is a finite point, so whatever gets me there earlier is good,
and I want to avoid doing anything that makes the lap longer by adding more
time braking, coasting, feathering, or otherwise not on full throttle.

Essentially the ideal that we want to work toward (though we may not always
achieve it) is the Bertil Roos idea of Full Throttle, Full Brake, Full Time.
What this means is you are working toward an ideal that you know the track
and your car so well, that you only use either full throttle, or full brake,
but nothing else.  Again, this is an IDEAL - it doesn't mean we ignore our
techniques of light braking, feathering the throttle, line recovery, etc when
we get in trouble or when certain track areas require it.  There probably are
tracks where FT/FB/FT is possible, but I don't think the 'Ring is one of them.
Here, you just try to reach that ideal in sections that are smooth enough to
allow it.

Another valuable piece of advice is from Petter Solberg: "You have to try to
be very neat, no attack, because as soon as you try to push harder, you go
slower.  So just keep it neat and steady."  Professor Nakaya seems to concur,
that in some situations the driver's attempt to push harder will be useless
since it only increases the steering angle as well as the friction of the
wheels on the pavement, which cancels out or even negates any increase the
driver desires to make. Again, aggressive driving is often useful in racing,
but for time attack you want to be as smooth as possible, and in some corners
you just want to maintain revs but apply only enough throttle to get the right
balance.

The book "Winning" had some interesting advice also - basically that you
should not feel "comfortable" while racing - you should be going at the limit
and often fighting for grip on every corner.  What I've found is on many
corners you want to go for a certain amount of slip to get the optimum exit
and full acceleration.  This will of course make it difficult to control
wheel spin as well as keeping the rear from sliding around as you try to
steer your way out.  Another way to put it, sometimes your steering may feel
sloppy or busy as you try to manage the low traction situation known as 
maximum acceleration.

Undulating corners are all over the place at Nordschleife, but they are not
as friendly and predictable as a track like Suzuka, so you will need to think
about how weight transfer affects braking and throttle as your car alternates
quickly between understeer and oversteer, often in the same corner.

Once you feel really dialed in after many laps of practice, you'll start to
experience feeling like it's just basic flowing lines, using as smooth and
steady inputs as you can manage, adjusting the acceleration for the shape of
each corner.  (I can hear Bruce Lee saying "Don't think!  Feeeeeeeel...")
Your mind is clear and calm because your body is just nailing each section.
When you feel it, it is magic.

Ok, now it's time to take a lap around the track!

===========================
Nordschleife - Step by Step
===========================

Below is the gearing for most of the 6-gear cars I've tried; however in the
Zonda I sometimes find myself using a slightly lower gear to keep the car in
check, so don't be shy if you feel you need a lower gear to get the car to
turn in or remain stable for the exit.  However there is not one corner that
requires 1st gear - most of the slow corners are taken in 2nd or 3rd, with
medium and fast corners in 4th or 5th.

I also avoid the kerbs like the plague - they are vicious to the Zonda and
can easily toss the car the wrong way in a flash of the slightest bit of
excess power.  However their edges still provide some nice visual cues.

T13 (grandstand section)
------------------------

4th - Brake-3-2 - left - 3-4 - right bend - tap - right - 5th - left bend

The game spits you into control of the car rather awkwardly sometimes, so if
this is the first lap you have to see if it gives you 2nd gear or 3rd.
Either is fine for the right hander onto the short straight, climb up to 4th
heading to the right edge, and brake just before going over the start/finish
line.  The first left is bumpy and downhill, it's easy to miss the apex here.

Flat out into 4th gear and for the second right, the bumps can lead you
into the grass (read: slam into Armco) so tap the brake and careful on the
throttle, stay close on the apex, and squeeze out of the wheel a bit on the
exit.  I was astonished how much more difficult this corner is in NFS in
terms of sheer bumpiness.  5th gear before you brake for the next section.

Hatzenbach (Hatzen Brook)
-------------------------

Brake-4-left-3 - double right - 4th - left - 3rd - right, 2nd-left-3rd-4th

This corner tends to get a pendulum effect but there is space to finish getting
down to 3rd after the left in 4th.  The double right needs some patience, get
4th for the next left, then 3rd to throttle to the right, then a dab into 2nd
for the the left, careful with the exit since it is bumpy. 3rd and 4th on
the exit.

Hocheichen (Great Oaks) 
-----------------------

Brake-3 - right - left - flat 4th

Again, very bumpy, tends to interfere with how much throttle you use and how
early. As you approach the first right, brake early down to 2nd gear, turn in
and give it a bit of gas toward the crest; shift to 3rd before the left, where
it is quite slippery, keep on the throttle maybe with a quick lift and let
the car track to the right edge on exit. Flat out to the next section.

Quiddelbacher Hohe (Quiddelbach Height)
---------------------------------------

Flat - over crest - right - 5th

This section is flat out and smoother than I expected - stick to the basics
and reach high 5th gear before the tricky crest at the next section.

Flugplatz (Airfield, literally "Flying Place")
----------------------------------------------

5th - tap brake before crest - settle, tap again - double right - left

Go over the left center of the crest straight, and tap the brake just before
so the car does not go quite as airborn.  You should have a beat to let the
car settle and tap the brake again for the double right-hander.  Barely
touch the first apex, and try to come around the second one in a single arc.
Keep going flat out into the next section.

Schwedenkreuz (Swedish Cross)
-----------------------------

Flat - 6th downhill - crest - light brake 5th, careful long bumpy left

Go over the crest near the middle or slightly right but go as straight as
possible.  When you see the little sign on the right, brake into 5th and
turn left but expect a big bump in the turn.  Flat for a bit and then
track slightly left of center as you get ready to brake hard down to 3rd
into the next section.

Aremberg
--------

BRAKE-4-3 - long right - flat on exit

It's important for your time to get a good exit here so concentrate on your
braking point and get a good line. This is a somewhat long right-hander so
throttle control is important.

Fuchsrohre (Foxhole or "Fox's Neck")
------------------------------------

Flat 4-5-6 - compression left - brake 5th - left - brake 4th - right

Drive through the bends as straight as you can, touching each kerb, until you
approach the compression that leads up the hill to the left.  You can stay
completely flat all the way to 6th gear. As you come up the hill stay to the
right, then brake into 5th, turn early but avoid the kerb, then quickly drop
to 4th and again back on the throttle, revs steady for the right. Hug the kerb
without touching it, then as the track straightens drop to 2nd to prepare for
the next section.

Adenauer Forst (Adenau Forest)
------------------------------

Track right - brake-3-2 - early left - 3rd - right - exit - flat 4-5

This section is wonderful for going off the track or spinning out.  I used to
have trouble at this spot often in GT4 - the trick is don't get tempted to
brake too late since it is more important to get a really good exit.  Also it
is easy to spin on the left since there are undulations so be careful. I also
find that jumping the kerb for the right turn rarely improves my time as much
as just keeping all four wheels on the pavement.  If you are patient and focus
on setting up early throttle for the right and a good exit, it's a lot easier
to find time here.

Metzgesfeld (Metzge's Field)
----------------------------

Flat - brake-4th - left - brake-3rd - left - right - 4th

This is another easy spot to lose control, so be very careful with your line
and try to stay off the kerb on the inside left.  Mostly I'm trying not to
slide off the exit of the left, then concentrate on braking early enough
for the following left. Getting the right balance and traction makes the right
a lot easier, and also easier to carry speed down the hill.

Kallenhard (Kallen Forest)
--------------------------

Brake-3-2 - right - 3rd before exit - flat 4th

Something about these downhill off camber corners, the Zonda doesn't want to
turn in with 3rd gear, have to go to 2nd...

Let the car track left as you come down the hill, and you want to brake fairly
early and drop back to 2nd.  Hug the inside until you can see a clear exit,
shift to 3rd, and track to the outside.  Head to the right edge and continue
flat into 4th as you approach the next tricky section of the track.

Spiegelkurve (unofficial, "Mirror Curve")
-----------------------------------------

Flat 4th - little lift - left-right - sort out messy exit - flat 4th

Expect more pendulum effect here.  The cambers shift left to right, so try not
to steer too forcefully.  To me this section is easier in NFS than it was in
GT4, but maybe that's because it's slower.  Still very easy to blow the exit
so concentrate on making the right turn well, then get a light brake into
the next three rights.

"Miss-Hit-Miss" (also Drei Rechte, "Three Rights")
--------------------------------------------------

4th - light brake - miss - hit - flat 4th - miss - 5th

This is another place where the turns feel like they change on you so you don't
want to be accelerating and tightening your turning arc at the same time.
Brake early so that you get good balance into the first right.  If you get
the car to the right spot on the "hit" kerb then you can nail the throttle
flat for the exit without worrying about the rear end.  Throttle hard down the
straight in 5th.

Wehrseifen (Resistance Valley)
------------------------------

Brake-4-3-right-2 - left - right - 3rd - exit flat 4th-5th

This is a very slow corner where much time can be lost, so it's important
to be as accurate as possible.  I've noticed the left hander is way more
bumpy also - I've positively hopped right off into the Armco on the right
- it's really difficult to get back on the throttle early. Accelerate
smoothly through 2nd and 3rd for the left and right turn.

Breidscheid
-----------

Right bend - brake-4-3 - double left watch the wall - 4th

Clear the right bend in 5th gear but start braking for the left somewhat
early - you want to be in 3rd and close to the inside, and this is a corner
that will really mess you up if you are late (in real life there is a concrete
wall here, so we are talking serious damage).  The pavement is smoother here
than in GT4 but grip is still weak - going too wide makes it hard to set up
the following right turn.  Get 4th on the exit and the car will get some
acceleration to the next bit.  Line the car up as straight as you can...

Ex-Muhle (Water Mill)
---------------------

Early, light brake 3rd - minimum speed, light power - right - flat 4-5

This section is delicate - brake lightly and early since it gets bumpy,
uphill, and off camber.  Turn in somewhat early, staying tight on the apex.
Little bit of crest here so release your arc and get good throttle on the exit,
but if you go too wide it will take a while to get back on the power. Be
careful accelerating up the hill - the rear can get nervous. Continue flat
out through 5th gear into the next section.

Lauda Links
-----------

Flat 5th - left

Stay hard on the throttle and turn early, flat down the hill, track left
before the next section.

Bergwerk (Mine, literally "Mountain Work")
------------------------------------------

Brake-4-3 - right - flat 4-5

Similar to Ex-Muhle though not as delicate, this is one of the most important
corners for getting a strong exit.  This corner's odd shape and weird camber
make most attempts to brake late end in understeer followed by tracking wide
into the Armco - usually I use the green sign on the right as a reference,
braking at or just after it.  Brake consistently to 3rd, and though this is
a late apex corner, the entry is a bit earlier than you may think because of
the uphill and the camber.  Work the throttle patiently and get a good exit.
This will give you good speed up the hill into one of the longer flat-out
sections of the track.

Kesselchen (Little Valley, "Little Bottom")
-------------------------------------------

Flat 5th - left, left, left, left, left, right, right, right-left

In most cars this is all flat, not too much to worry about if you just stick to
the basics.  It is all uphill so I don't bother trying 6th gear.  There is a
quick right-left eventually, try to miss-hit the split kerbs on the right,
then just touch the edge of the kerb on the left. Aim for a straight line
that will put you near the kerb up close to the Armco at the right edge,
and tap the brake a bit for the next section.

Mutkurve (Courage Curve, also Angstkurve, "Fear curve") 
-------------------------------------------------------

5th - double left

This left hander is another spot where it is very easy to push too hard and
lose the rear end, so be careful with your line, and stay close to the kerb
on the inside left, then ease off the wheel just as the car tracks through
to the kerb on the outside right where you think you'll end up on the grass.

Klostertal (Convent Valley)
---------------------------

Flat 5th - early right - crest - relaxed exit

This is yet another place where it is easy to spin out if you turn too hard
on a bad line, so turn right early with some anticipation of where the kerb
appears, and then ease off the wheel on the exit, and the car should remain
relatively stable.  Watch out for the grass on the left.

Steilstrecke (Steep Stretch)
----------------------------

BRAKE-4-3-2 - double right - 3rd - exit - 4th

This tight curve is hidden by a crest that you will go over flat out, then
brake just before the kerb on the left drop to 2nd.  This is another curve
that has a couple of apexes, and it seems best to enter in 2nd gear and be
up to 3rd passing the second apex.  There are gentle bends leading to the next
section but you can easily go straight and keep accelerating, just reaching
5th gear before dropping hard back to 2nd again.  There is a particular
shadow that protrudes from the right which I use as a reference.

Karussell
---------

Brake-3-2 - long left - exit - 3-4

You can make or lose a lot of time here because of how slow and long it is.
I think I'm still losing time - it feels really strange in the Zonda.

This tight banked corner is easiest if you keep the car inside but not all the
way to the kerb, and keep the revs steady in 2nd.  I find it really difficult
to stay in the "banked" sections in NFS, the concrete feels really weird and
kind of slippery.  Pop out of the last corner into 3rd and head up the hill.

Hohe Acht (High Lookout, after the hut)
---------------------------------------

Tap-4th - left - brake-3rd - left-right - throttle 4th - Brake-3rd - right

The first left-hander is more tricky if you are used to GT4 - needs some
brake in 4th and it's pretty bumpy.  Then flat up the hill in 4th toward
the summit.  Brake into 3rd for the left and watch the throttle through to
the right.  It's really bumpy and can catch you out easily.  Throttle to 4th
for the summit and then brake to 3rd for the right turn heading downhill
again.

Hedwigshohe (Hedwig's Height)
-----------------------------

Flat 4th - light brake - 3rd

This section is misleadingly quick and easy considering what comes next.
4th is fine for the second right but be careful to put the car in
the right spot for what comes next.  Getting this wrong will blow your
balance into...

Wipperman (Seesaw Man)
----------------------

3rd - left - right - 4th

This spot is an easy place to lose it because of the abrupt way that it goes
downhill, and when I went to the real track we saw an accident here. This
tricky left-right gets a bit snappy and has a tendency to toss you right off
the track.  It's all about getting the last right turn correct, but it drops
away right after the apex so it is fairly difficult to stay on the track. I
avoid the kerbs and just be patient in 3rd. A little throttle into 4th, then
as you approach the next hill brake a bit early to 3rd again.

Eschbach (Ash Brook)
--------------------

Brake-3rd - right over hill - 4th - early brake-3-2 - double left

Come into the right hander over the hill, staying tight on the inside
and hitting 4th as you start downhill on the exit.  Brake somewhat
early to drop back to 2nd for the double left hander, which is another part
where braking too late really costs you.  The camber and downhill makes the
turn-in a bit difficult.  Get up to 3rd and then brake a bit for the 
next section.

Brunnchen (Little Well)
-----------------------

Brake-3rd - right - 4th - brake-3rd - right - 4th

This is another dance between 3rd and 4th gears.  The first right hander is
very easy to overcook as it is downhill, and very often you will find yourself
all the way to the left on the exit, almost into the grass.  If you can keep
just the left wheels on the kerb you will still be able to get good throttle
in 4th before the next right, again dropping to 3rd for the turn and back to
4th as the car tracks to the outside of the exit (but be especially careful
here, the sand will lose you a lot of time).

Eiskurve (Ice Curve)
--------------------

Brake-3rd - early left - 4th through right - 5th

This left-hander is again taken in 3rd, but it seems longer and goes into a
tricky right hander on the exit.  The pavement is really slippery (hence the
name), so stay in the middle as you accelerate into 5th for the next section.

Pflanzgarten 1 (Plant Garden) 
----------------------------- 

5th - gentle brake - over crest STRAIGHT - settle-dab-4th-double right

The wavy little section can be taken flat, sticking to the basics but ending
up slightly to the left as you go over the little jump at the bottom before the
rather difficult double right-hander in 4th gear.  Keep accelerating but be
as smooth as possible as you sweep through the double right toward the next
part.  Your exit here can make or lose considerable time all the way to
Schwalbenschwanz.

Sprunghugel (Leap Hill)
------------------------

Flat - left - 5th before exit - go STRAIGHT over left side of drop

This first left is another easy place to mess up and not be in the right
position to track to the rumble strip on the right side of the exit.  It is
vital to keep hard on the throttle in 4th and try to get into 5th gear before
going over the crest, staying to the left while going as straight as possible.
This drop can be extremely unsettling to the car at this speed so again, go
over it as straight as you can.

Pflanzgarten 2
--------------

Flat 5th - right, left, right, left

This section is flat out in 5th and can be a mind bender at this speed,
so keep in mind the two right-left pairs are gradually working 
to the left.  I think this section is a lot easier in NFS than it was in
GT4, thankfully.  

Schwalbenschwanz (Swallow Tail)
-------------------------------

Flat 5th - dab-4th - right - brake-3rd - left - 4th

This section gets slippery, but again it is a lot easier than it was in
GT4 (probably because you are going slower).  The left hander is over
a crest so the variation in grip can be tricky even in 3rd gear.  Stick
to the basics and these two shouldn't be too much trouble.

Kleinekarussell (Little Karussell)
----------------------------------

Brake-3rd - drop into banking left - exit - 4th

It's all too easy to underestimate this important corner.  You want to
drop into it in 3rd gear but the grip here (like the Karussell) feels 
very strange to me.  Drop about half the car inside and try to keep
the rear in check, aiming to pop out over the right corner of the last
paving block. Continue to 4th for the approach to the next corner.

Galgenkopf (Gallow Hill)
------------------------

4th - tap brake - right - right - right relaxed - exit

These two very important corners are full of trickiness.  Aim for first
kerb apex and just miss it, and as you exit keep some turn on since the
outside edge keeps coming in on you.  Try to anticipate the kerb
for the second right hander and go in early, keep it in 4th and start
unwinding left where the track drops a bit.  5th and 6th as you head
into the long straight.

Dottinger Hohe (Dottingen High)
-------------------------------

Flat 6th - looooong straight - left - down hill

Not much to this - keep it flat in 6th and stick just off center to the right.
The car should be reaching top speed as you start on the incline before the
bridge, let the car go all the way right...

Antoniusbuche (Antonius' Beech)
-------------------------------

Turn early and ease through the left hander, totally wide open.  Keep it flat
out down the hill...

Tiergarten (Animal Garden)
--------------------------

Flat 6th - left - lift - right

This section near the end leads to a left-right that you can take almost flat,
just a little lift into the right.  Once you clear the right and are going
straight, immediately prepare to drop to 4th for the final section...

Hohenrain (Raised Boundary)
---------------------------

Brake-5-4-left - 3rd - right-left - brake - 2nd - right - 3rd

Brake into 4th and then cut to the inside left just missing the Armco. Brake
straight into 3rd for the right hander of the chicane, keeping the revs
steady since this corner is an easy place to spoil what might have been a
stellar lap time.  I stay off the kerbs and try to get a good exit on the
left. Then a quick brake to 2nd to get ready for the final right-hander.
Aim for the Armco at the apex and just miss it - then into 3rd and 4th just
at the line.


===========================
Addendum 1 - lap milestones
===========================

Most people's advice is absolutely correct: that it takes about 100
laps just to consider oneself minimally familiar with the track.  But
refining from there can take exponentially more practice...

Feel free to skip this section if you like, it's mainly for me (again
I don't claim the fastest times, these are just my personal bests so far).
I think I'm kinda slow for having done so many laps, but this is the main
track where I develop my skill and I'm still learning...

Lap 3767: Lap count in GT4 when I bought NFS Shift
Lap NFS1: First lap in Lotus Elise 8'24.474 (no upgrades)
Lap NFS8: Fastest lap in Lotus Elise 7'52.467 (tier 2/3 tuning)
Lap NFS9: First lap in GT-R Spec V 7'10.456 (few upgrades)
Lap NFS52: Fastest lap in GT-R Spec V 6'48.243 (tier 3 tuning)
Lap NFS54: Fastest lap in MC12 GT1 Loaner car 6'29.072
Lap NFS55: First lap in Zonda R 6'39.565
Lap NFS66: Fastest lap in Zonda R 6'26.530


==================
Thanks for reading
==================

Again, I hope this humble labor has helped or inspired you in some way.  This
is my first version for NFS Shift, so I'm sure it will continue to evolve
as I get more familiar with the game and the nuances of the track.  Thank
you for reading!

++++++++++++