Author / Creator: MKiii Supra Author Contact (Email): [email protected] Author Contact (AIM): l AzNpnOi l (those are Ls, by the way) Game: Tokyo Xtreme Racer 3, Playstation 2 General Guide to Tokyo Xtreme Racer 3 Created on: 12/7/03 -=CopyRight Ryan Odi 2006=- The Table of Contents ------------------------------------- -Updates- -Locations of this FAQ- I. Introduction + Getting Started II. Frequently Asked Questions III. Progressing (Basically, this is the main part of the FAQ / Guide) A. General Information B. Engine Swaps C. Tuning a. Transmission b. Suspension c. Other IV. Outro / Credits -Updates- ------------------------------------- 12/8/03 - The only update is that I added that you could refer to dankbud's wanderer FAQ if you wanted to find about wanderers, or just look at the topic on the GameFAQs message boards. I've also fixed the car list a little bit. It's a small update, but I'll be doing some heavy updating soon. 12/9/03 - Updated the car list a little bit. W i n g sent me a fixed up version of it. Thanks w i n g! I also updated that engine swap question in the Frequently Asked Questions section. 12/10/03 - Just added that this FAQ could now be viewed on cheatcc.com and at IGN. Also, I've updated those "Boss Lists" in the General Info section. 12/15/03 - Another small update. Just fixed up the "Boss Lists" once again. 12/17/03 - Updated the "Boss Lists" even more. Added information on the bosses. 12/24/03 - Updated the "Engine Swaps" Section. Updated the Progressing Section. 1/13/04 - Heh, the first update of 2004. Just added some general stuff about bosses. 1/14/04 - Since some people misunderstood some of the information, I fixed it. I also fixed a few other small things, because some people were being picky about what I typed. 1/20/04 - Fixed up the engine swap section a little bit. 2/28/04 - Fixed up a few typos, added information on the Gembellas. Also added a question in the FAQ section! 12/26/06 - After Christmas day, I decided to update this FAQ a little as I was not as good with cars as I am today and I decided to fix the small errors. I. Introduction + Getting Started ------------------------------------- Before we start, I will have to say this. DO NOT RIP / STEAL / TAKE ANYTHING FROM THIS FAQ. It doesn't hurt to ask, so please, just contact me and get my permission. DO NOT RIP / STEAL / TAKE ANYTHING FROM THIS FAQ!!!!! DO NOT RIP / STEAL / TAKE ANYTHING FROM THIS FAQ!!!! DO NOT RIP / STEAL / TAKE ANYTHING FROM THIS FAQ!!! DO NOT RIP / STEAL / TAKE ANYTHING FROM THIS FAQ!! DO NOT RIP / STEAL / TAKE ANYTHING FROM THIS FAQ! DO NOT RIP / STEAL / TAKE ANYTHING FROM THIS FAQ!! DO NOT RIP / STEAL / TAKE ANYTHING FROM THIS FAQ!!! DO NOT RIP / STEAL / TAKE ANYTHING FROM THIS FAQ!!!! DO NOT RIP / STEAL / TAKE ANYTHING FROM THIS FAQ!!!!! This guide is for a PlayStation2 game known as Tokyo Xtreme Racer 3. This is the third game of the series. This game has about 600 rivals and many cars, which can all be tuned to your liking in many aspects (Performance, looks). The game is very addicting, and for all that, it costs 20 bucks. Not bad, eh? Well, that's the intro. Now on to the guide... Since you are just getting started, I'd suggest you look in your instruction booklet. It'll have all some answers to your common questions. I get a lot of common questions because nobody seems to read the manual. Heh. My controls are set to the following: Accelerate - Push Right Analog stick Up (yours might be X) Decelerate (Braking) - Push Right Analog Stick Down (yours might be Square) Turn Left - Push Left Analog stick Left Turn Right - Push Left Analog stick Right High Beams (Challenging the opponent) - R1 Shift Up (Going to the next gear) - R2 Shift Down ("Downshifting") - L2 Hazard Lights - R3 (pushing the right analog stick) Left Turn Signal - Push the Right Analog Stick Left Right Turn Signal - Push the Right Analog Stick Right That's what my controls are. I find it easier to play when you are controlling it with the analog stick instead of pressing the arrows. Do what you need to play comfortably. II. Frequently Asked Questions ------------------------------------- Ahh yes. The frequently asked questions. Here are some of the commonly asked questions I find on the GameFAQs message boards. Q: How come I can't race rivals? A: Use your "High Beams" to challenge them when their "SP" bar appears. Either that, or they are a wanderer and you do not meet their requirements. Q: How come when I put my car(s) in the sub-garage, they are deleted? A: You must save the game before you exit. If you forget, they will be erased Q: What are good gear ratios? A: Good gear ratios are gear ratios that stay within your powerband. Press L2 on the main menu screen. It'll show you the max torque and horsepower of your car. To stay in the powerband, don't let it go below those RPMs. If your car has a small powerband, then I don't know what to tell ya. Good gear ratios are gotten by TRIAL AND ERROR. Do them yourself. Please, do not email me or post on the message boards "I need settings for (insert) car". Just do them yourselves. Q: What's the use of Aero Parts? A: For visual and aerodynamic uses. Also, buying the Carbon version of it will lighten your car. Q: I need to beat ### Wanderer. A: You could easily look at the FAQ that is called "Wanderer FAQ". Q: What is the mileage trick? A: The mileage trick is a glitch you can use to get tons of mileage. This is useful because you can get an Engine Swap. 1. Win a race. 2. Eject disc. 3. Hit free run. 4. After you are done getting mileage, put the disc back in and DO NOT PRESS ANYTHING. Once you hear music, and see the roads again. Return to your garage, or continue racing if you want. I suggest you go to the garage and save though. Q: How do I race in the rain? A: Just put the Normal tires on your car. They WILL grip better. Q: When do I get an engine swap? What does it do? A: After getting 1242 miles on one car, you are allowed to get an "Engine Change". There are 3 categories. Normal is the engine that you've got, and NA and Turbo are the ones you'll be going for. I suggest you go to the Turbo section. Those have the best engines. Engine swaps are better than Normal Engines. Q: Do engine swap horsepower levels vary? A: Some do, some do not. Example: Cars in higher classes get more power. An example of this is that a Cappucino would put out less horsepower than a Toyota MKIV Supra would, both with the same engines. If it was in the same class, like a Toyota MKIII Supra and a Toyota MKIV Supra, then they would be the same. I know this, because I own both and both have L6 Turbo swaps with the same HP (PS). Q: How do I unlock Engine 7? A: Just thought I'd put this here, you unlock in the second part of the game, at 50%. Q: What is the best car? A: There are none, but a few good ones are... Ford GT JZA80 Supra JZA70 Supra WRX SPEC RA R-34 Skyline GTR R-32 Skyline GTR CT9A Lancer CP9A Lancer GTR750 MCR R-34 Skyline GTR Remember, those are only some, but fully tuned, they'll usually win easily. Q: How do I use boost? A: For turbocharged cars, get an Engine Level of 1 or higher. Set the boost level to 3 in the Car Settings section. Press select. The red dial will appear. Your temperature of water and oil will raise quickly though. To stop using boost, just press select again. You don't need to hold anything down, by the way. Q: What do I do? My game freezes at the rival movies. A: Skip them by pressing "X". Q: What are the cars in this game? A: Here's a list provided by W i n g. He is a user on the GameFAQs message boards. Credit goes to W i n g! Japanese Names / American Names / Car Code 1.Daihatsu 2.Isuzu 3.Mazda 4.Mitsubishi 5.Nissan 6.Subaru 7.Suzuki 8.Toyota 9.Detomaso 10.Dodge 11.Ford 12.Gemballa 13.GM 14.Lotus 15.Mercedes-Benz 16.Volkswagon 17.Special (Tuner Cars) 1.Daihatsu -Copen / Copen ACTIVE TOP / L880K $19,800 FF 64 PS Turbo 659cc 11.2 kgm 830 kg -MOVE RS XX Limited / MOVE AERO RS-XX Limited / L902S $9,000 FF 64 PS Turbo 659cc 10.2 kgm 870 kg 2.Isuzu -VehiCROSS / VehiCROSS BaseGrade / UGS250 $21,300 4WD 215 PS NA 3165 29.0 kgm 1750 kg -Piazza XS Turbo / Piazza XS / JR120 $19,800 FR 180 PS Turbo 1994cc 25.5 kgm 1210 kg 3.Mazda -RX-8 / RX-8 Type R/ SE3P $37,900 FR 250 PS NA 654x2cc 22.0 kgm 1310 kg -RX-7 Type RZ / RX-7 Type RZ / FD3S $59,300 FR 280 PS Turbo 654x2cc 32.0 kgm 1270 kg -Savanna RX-7 Infini / Savanna RX-7 Infini / FC3S $32,900 FR 215 PS Turbo 654x2cc 28.0 kgm 1230 kg -Savanna RX-7 Turbo GT-X / Savanna RX-7 Turbo GT-X / SA22C $23,500 FR 165 PS Turbo 573x2cc 23.0 kgm 1020 kg -Savanna GT / RX-3 GT / RX3 $13,500 FR 120 PS Turbo 573x2cc 16.0 kgm 885 kg -Roadster RS / MX-5 Miata RS / NB8C $20,000 FR 160 PS NA 1839cc 17.3 kgm 1070 kg -Eunos Roadster S-Special Type-II / MX-5 Miata S-Special Type-II / NA8C $14,800 FR 130 PS NA 1839cc 16.0 kgm 990 kg 4.Mitsubishi -Lancer Evolution VII GSR / Lancer Evolution VII GSR / CT9A $61,200 4WD 280 PS Turbo 1997cc 39.0 kgm 1400 kg -Lancer Evolution V / Lancer Evolution V GSR / CP9A $52,600 4WD 280 PS Turbo 1997cc 38.0 kgm 1360 kg -Lancer EX GSR Turbo Intercooler / Lancer EX GSR Turbo Intercooler / A175A $18,700 FR 160 PS Turbo 1795cc 22.0 kgm 1025 kg -GTO Twin Turbo MR / GTO Twin Turbo MR / Z15A $44.400 4WD 280 PS Turbo 2972cc 43.5 kgm 1680 kg -FTO GP Version R / FTO GP Ver.R / DE3A $30,000 FF 200 PS Turbo 1998cc 20.4 kgm 1190 kg -Starion GSR-VR / Starion GSR-VR / A187A $22,200 FR 175 PS Turbo 2555cc 32.0 kgm 1320 kg 5.Nissan -Skyline GT-R V-specII / Skyline GT-R V-specII / BNR34 $74,100 4WD 280 PS Turbo 2568cc 40.0 kgm 1560 kg -Skyline GT-R V-spec / Skyline GT-R V-spec / BCNR33 $66,900 4WD 280 PS Turbo 2568cc 37.5 kgm 1540 kg -Skyline GT-R V-specII / Skyline GT-R V-specII / BNR32 $65,600 4WD 280 PS Turbo 2568cc 36.0 kgm 1450 kg -Skyline 2000 GT-R / Skyline HT2000 GT-R / KPGC110 $28,700 FR 160 PS NA 1989cc 18.0 kgm 1145 kg -Fairlady Z Version S / 350 Z / Z33 $63,400 FR 280 PS Turbo 3498cc 37.0 kgm 1440 kg -Fairlady Z 300ZX Twin Turbo 2by2 / 300ZX Twin Turbo 2by2 / GC232 $55,500 FR 280 PS Turbo 2960cc 39.6 kgm 1490 kg -Fairlady Z 300ZX 2BY2 / 300ZX 2by2 / HG231 $26,500 FR 230 PS Turbo 2960cc 34.0 kgm 1365 kg -Fairlady 280 Z-T / 280 Z-T 2by2 / HGS30 $13,500 FR 155 PS NA 2753cc 23.5 kgm 1350 kg -Fairlady Z-L / 240 Z / 530 $14,300 FR 130 PS NA 1998cc 17.5 kgm 1150 kg -Silvia spec.R / 200 SX / S15 $41,700 FR 250 PS Turbo 1998cc 28.0 kgm 1250 kg -Silvia K's / 200 SX / S14 $36,000 FR 220 PS Turbo 1998cc 28.0 kgm 1240 kg -Silvia K's / 200 SX / S13 $30,500 FR 205 PS Turbo 1998cc 28.0 kgm 1200 kg -180 SX TypeX / 180 SX TypeX / RPS13 $30,600 FR 205 PS Turbo 1998cc 28.0 kgm 1190 kg -Pulsar GTI-R / Pulsar GTI-R / RNN14 $43,100 4WD 230 PS Turbo 1998cc 29.0 kgm 1220 kg -Cima 450 VIP Four / Cima 450 VIP Four / GNF50 $49,200 4WD 280 PS NA 4494cc 41.0 kgm 1900 kg -Cedric 300 VIP / Cedric 300 VIP / HY34 $47,000 FR 280 PS Turbo 2987cc 39.5 kgm 1690 kg -Gloria GranTurismo ULTIMA / Gloria GranTurismo ULTIMA / HY33 $43,600 FR 270 PS Turbo 2987cc 37.5 kgm 1610 kg -Celfiro Cruising / Maxima / CA31 $23,700 FR 205 PS Turbo 1998cc 27.0 kgm 1360 kg 6.Subaru -Impreza WRX STi type RA spec C / Impreza WRX STi type RA spec C / GDB $68,800 4WD 280 PS Turbo 1994cc 39.2 kgm 1310 -Impreza WRX STi Version VI / Impreza WRX STi Version VI / GC8 $65,200 4WD 280 PS Turbo 1994cc 36.0 kgm 1270 kg -Legacy B4 RSK / Legacy B4 RSK / BE5 $66,700 4WD 280 PS Turbo 1994cc 35.0 kgm 1460 kg -Legacy Touring Wagon GT-B E-tune II / Legacy Touring Wagon GT-B E-tune II / BH5 $64,100 4WD 280 PS Turbo 1994cc 35.0 kgm 1530 kg -Alcyone VR / Alcyone VR / AX7 $14,200 4WD 120 PS Turbo 1781cc 18.2 kgm 1140 kg 7.Suzuki -WagonR RR RR-SWT / wagon R RR RR-SWT / MC22S $9,400 FF 64 PS Turbo 658cc 10.8 kgm 830 kg -Cappuccino / Cappuccino / EA11R $16,600 FR 64 PS Turbo 657cc 8.7 kgm 700 kg 8.Toyota -Supra RZ / Supra RZ / JZA80 $63,300 FR 280 PS Turbo 2997cc 46.0 kgm 1510 kg -Supra 2.5 Twin Turbo R / Supra 2.5 Turbo R / JZA70 $60,500 FR 280 PS Turbo 2491cc 37.0 kgm 1520 kg -MR-S S-Edition / MR-s S-Edition / ZZW30 $20,300 MR 140 PS NA 1794cc 17.4 kgm 970 kg -MR2 GT / MR2 GT / SW20 $38,600 MR 245 PS Turbo 1998cc 31.0 kgm 1270 kg -MR2 'G, Super Charger / MR2 1.6G Super Charger / AW11 $17,600 MR 145 PS Turbo 1587cc 19.0 kgm 1070 kg -Celica GT-Four / Celica GT-Four / ST205 $40,500 4WD 255 PS Turbo 1998cc 31.0 kgm 1390 kg -Corolla Levin BZ-R / Corolla Levin BZ-R / AE111 $20.700 FF 165 PS NA 1587cc 16.5 kgm 1080 kg -Corolla Levin 3door GT APEX / Corolla Levin 3door GT APEX / AE86L $14,400 FR 130 PS NA 1587cc 15.2 kgm 950 kg -Sprinter Trueno 3door GT APEX / Sprinter Trueno 3door GT APEX / AE86T $14,400 FR 130 PS NA 1587cc 15.2 kgm 950 kg -Corolla FX FX-GT / Corolla FX 3door 1600GT / AE82 $14,400 FF 130 PS NA 1587cc 15.2 kgm 940 kg -Celsior eR version / Lexus LS 430 / UCF30 $47,100 FR 280 PS NA 4292cc 43.8 kgm 1830 kg -Aristo V300 Vertex Edition / Lexus GS 300 / JZS161 $57,700 FR 280 PS Turbo 2997cc 46.0 kgm 1680 kg -Mark II Grande iR-V / Mark II Grande iR-V / JZ110 $36,200 FR 280 PS Turbo 2491cc 38.5 kgm 1530 kg -Chaser Tourer V / Chaser Tourer V / JZX100 $37,200 FR 280 PS Turbo 2491cc 38.5 kgm 1480 kg -bB Z/1.5 2WD "X Version" / bB Z/1.5 2WD "X Version" / NCP31 $13,500 FF 110 PS NA 1496cc 14.6 kgm 1049 kg -Vitz RS / Vitz RS / NCP13 $12,500 FF 88 PS NA 1298cc 12.5 kgm 920 kg -Starlet Glanza / Starlet Glanza V / EP91 $15,800 FF 135 PS Turbo 1331cc 16.0 950 kg -Toyota 2000GT / Toyota 2000GT / MF10 $34,400 FR 150 PS NA 1988cc 18.0 kgm 1120 kg 9.Detomaso -Pantera GTS / Pantera GTS / PGTS $111,500 MR 350 PS NA 5763cc 50.0 kgm 1420 kg 10.Dodge -Viper / Viper GTS Coupe / VGTS $182,700 FR 450 PS NA 7993cc 67.7 kgm 1590 kg 11.Ford -Ford GT / Ford GT / GT40 $258,600 MR 507 PS NA 5400cc 69.0 kgm ---- kg -Mustang mach 1 / Mustang mach 1 / Mach1 $97,900 FR 340 PS NA 7013cc 60.8 kgm 1427 kg 12.Gemballa -GTR 750 / GTR 750 / 996T (THIS CAR CANNOT BE TUNED!) $821,800 RR 750 PS Turbo 3800cc 88.5 kgm 1510 kg -GTR 500 / GTR 500 / 986B (THIS CAR CANNOT BE TUNED!) $225,100 RR 500 PS Turbo 3400cc 55.0 kgm 1300 kg 13.GM -Corvette / Corvette Z51 / CY25E $102,300 355 PS NA 5665cc 51.8 kgm 1470 kg -Corvette / Corvette / CY158K $69,000 FR 300 PS NA 5727cc 47.0 kgm 1520 kg -Firebird / Firebird Series 2F base model / S87 $42,200 FR 92 PS NA 2560cc 17.9 kgm 1296 kg 14.Lotus -ESPRIT / ESPRIT V8 Sports350 / 82V8 $118,000 MR 350 PS Turbo 3506cc 40.7 kgm 1300 kg -Europa Special / Europa Special / 74 $39,700 MR 127 PS NA 1558cc 15.6 kgm 720 kg -Turbo Esprit $51,000 MR 205 PS Turbo 2174cc 27.6 kgm 1148 kg 15.Mercedes Benz -S-Class S 600 / S-Class S 600L / E140 $158,000 FR 394 PS NA 5987cc 58.2 kgm 2170 kg -SL-Class SL 500 / SL-Class SL 500 / GH230 $128,000 FR 306 PS NA 4965cc 46.9 kgm 1840 kg -500E / 500E / E124 $83,500 FR 330 PS NA 4973cc 50.0 kgm 1700 kg 16.Volkswagon -Beetle RSi / New Beetle RSi / 9CAXJ $34,100 4WD 225 PS NA 3188cc 32.6 kgm 1520 kg -Golf GTI / Golf GTI / 1JAUM $20,800 FF 150 PS Turbo 1780cc 21.4 kgm 1280 kg 17.Special(Tuner Cars) -MCR Matchless Crowd Racing / MCR R34 / R34CuMRC $914,800 4WD 677 PS Turbo 2800cc 67.6 kgm ---- kg -RIDOX PLAYING LIFE STYLE / RIDOX Supra / A80CuRI $768,000 FR 570 PS Turbo 2997cc 68.0 kgm ---- kg -NOB NoOneBetter / NOB S15 / S15CuNOB $716,200 FR 400 PS Turbo 1998cc 45.0 kgm ---- kg -WEST Corvette / WEST Corvette / C4CuWEST $795,800 FR 600 PS NA 6150 61.0 kgm ---- kg This list does not include the custom cars. Thanks, W i n g for the list! Here are the highest part levels for all cars. Engine 9 Muffler 5 Cooling 5 Weight Down 5 Reinforcement 5 Transmission 3 Clutch 5 Brakes 5 Suspension 3 You can only have either Normal, HG, or S tires. You can't unlock anything else. The aero parts and the dress up parts vary. NOTE: You can only tune up the Engines of Custom cars. Special cars cannot be tuned up at all. The special cars are... MCR Skyline NOB Silvia RIDDX Supra WEST Corvette Also, I forgot to mention, but the Gembella GTR500 and the GTR750 CANNOT be tuned in ANY sort of way. You can only customize the settings. III A. Progressing (General Information) ------------------------------------- Ok, now that the frequently asked questions are answered, here's how you progress in Tokyo Xtreme Racer 3. There are 3 sections, Tokyo (The Main Part), Nagoya, and Osaka. In the previous game, you could only race in Tokyo, but they have added some more cities. This leaves plenty of rivals to battle. Here's how it goes. You challenge the members of a "gang" or. When you beat the team members, you face the leader. Usually, the team leader will be incredibely fast, and you'll have to win by skill. Or, they will just crash and lose. When you've beaten a certain amount of leaders, you battle the bosses. These guys are very, VERY quick and are faster than the team leaders. Most of the time, pure luck is needed to beat some of these. When your car is more tuned up, they won't seem so fast. If you ever want to test your cars abilities and you've beaten the rival, just go to the "Rival List" screen, and go to the rival you want to race, and press "X". This will lead you to a map, and you get to pick if you wanna race him at a certain place, with traffic, and what type of weather you want. Yes, I forgot to mention, there are new features. There are different types of weather. Snow / raining (Both will have an umbrella symbol) and Sunny (Will have a Sun Symbol at the top). Now, you start off with 40,000 dollars. Pretty good. Buy whatever car you wish. Don't worry about the "fastest" car thing. This is because if you buy an expensive car, you won't be able to tune it up much at the start. If you buy a cheap car, you can tune it with loads of stuff. Yes, it won't last you very long because cheap cars get faster VERY slowly. You might as well just buy a fast car, right? That's your decision. Most people look for the fastest car, but I picked a car I happened to like a lot. An AE86 Trueno. Some good cars to start off with are: Z31 300ZX - Costs around 30,000, can bring you through most of the game Chaser Tourer V - One of the most expensive starter cars, but has great power. Can EASILY bring you through most of this game. 180SX - I can't remember how much this one costed, but it's light and it's sort of quick. 200SX - This is another quick and light car. I can't remember how much this costs either. FC3S RX7 - Around 30,000, and can bring you through most of the game. Those are just some suggestions. Just browse and pick what you want. Now, you'll notice there aren't so many cars at the start. That is because during the game, when you beat rivals, you'll unlock a car by beating them. That doesn't mean you'll unlock an MR2 if you beat a guy with an MR2. You have to beat a certain specific person with the car. Here's a tip. If you wanna beat a certain gang or rival to get there car, or for any other purpose, just use the rival list. It'll tell you what you have beaten, and where to beat them. It's very useful. You can also challenge old rivals like I've said above. So now that you've gotten your car, time to pick where you want to start and race. You can start in Osaka, Nagoya, or Tokyo. I picked Tokyo. Pick wherever you want. Now you can start racing. When you enter the "course", you will find that you can sometimes go in two directions. It may be the same location, but it can go both ways, so remember that when finding rivals to defeat. I've said there are around 600 rivals in this game. When you first start defeating rivals, the percentage will go up quickly if you check the rival list. You'll be thinking, "What is this? This game is short." This is a spoiler ...you'll unlock a lot more of the game when you've conquered those small portions of each area. That's pretty much all I can inform you of. The rest is just, playing the game. Some bosses will be INSANELY fast, and you will probably never out accelerate them. Just hope they crash or something, or you can lure them to areas familiar to you. Be careful, they might go another way and you will get a draw. Oh yeah, during the "Second Part" of the game, the rivals will catch up to you if they are way behind. That's because they are using "Boost". They only use it if they are far behind though. You can tell they are using boost if you start to hear their car screaming down behind you. Also, they'll start using boost if they are way ahead of you. So don't let hem get too far ahead, or you'll never see them again. While I am at it, here's a list of the Teams that are the "Main" team of the region. First Part of the Game: Tokyo - "Boss" 1. Betrayal Jack Knife - a custom S13 Silvia (S13CuJK) 2. Blood Hound - a custom Lexus GS400 (J161CuBH) 3. Dejected Angel - a custom S15 Silvia (S15CuMA) Nagoya - Seeks and Genesis R Darkness Seven - GS400 Ogre Deity - JZA80 Supra Osaka - No Loser Naniwa Worship - a custom Lancer EVO Second Part of the Game: Tokyo - "Boss" 1. Steel Heart - a custom MKIV Supra 2. Dying Star - a custom Z15 3000GT 3. Pluto - a custom LS400 4. Pursuit Tailgunner - a custom RX-7 FC 5. Midnight Rose - a custom Z15 3000GT 6. Shadow Eyes - a custom JZA70 Supra 7. The Red Devil - a custom R-34 Skyline 8. Jintei - a custom R-34 Skyline Nagoya - "Boss" 1. Flame Dragon - a custom Viper GTS 2. "J" - a custom R32 Skyline GT-R 3. The Rook - a custom JZA80 Supra 4. The Bishop - a custom JZA80 Supra 5. The Knight - a custom JZA80 Supra Osaka - "DARTS" 1. God's Estuary - a custom GT (some call it the GT40) I will finish the rest of the information eventually. A few notes...most of the bosses have special effects. For example, Dejected Angel has "speed lines" that make it look like you are warping or something. It also has white snow. For Blood Hound, the rain is replaced with drops of blood. For most other bosses, they're cars just glow. III B. Progressing (Engine Swaps) ------------------------------------- Engine swaps are so good, they'll even get their own section in my FAQ. Engine swaps are the best way to become fast in Tokyo Xtreme Racer 3. They are better than "Engine 9". They are aquired when reaching 1242 miles. Well, they are unlocked at 1242 miles, but you still have to buy them. They all cost from 60,000 dollars to 75,000 dollars. It's a pretty good deal if you ask me. By the way, when i say "done tuning it up" I mean tuning your car up, not the engine that is swapped, because you CAN'T tune it. Some engines are better than others in certain categories, etc. Here are my thoughts on what the engines are best at. ALL NA Engines - Sometimes, these engines can be better than turbo engines, but I don't feel like going in-depth with those yet. The only one that is usually very good is the RE NA engine. All TURBO Engines - These are usually better then the NA ones. The most preferred engines are actually the same ones that come with the original car (FD3S with RE Turbo, WRX with Boxer4 Turbo) I usually prefer to use the I6 Turbo though. On some cars, the sometimes the "lower" alternatives are better. An example of this is the L4 Turbo Swap giving more HP (PS) to my MR2 than a L6 Turbo Swap. (693 compared to something around the 500s, I can't remember). III C. Progressing (Tuning) - Section a (Transmission) ------------------------------------- Since there have been many topics everywhere about tuning. I decided to add a section on it. First off, is tuning the transmission. Transmission can determine a lot of things. Depending on how your transmission is tuned, it can have very good acceleraton, and low top speed, or high top speed, and low acceleration. Usually, gear ratios for accelerate are usually "Close / Narrow". This means you'll be shifting constantly because the gears are close together. The reason "Close" gear ratios are good for acceleration are because of the following. You see, when you shift, if your gears are closer, then the RPMs will not drop down as much. Usually, higher RPMs = more power. This means that since you have more power, you'll accelerate faster. But, since they are close, they won't be going to a very high top speed. Gear ratios set to top speed tend to have slow acceleration. This is because they are "Wider / Taller". This means the gear ratios are farther apart from each other. When you shift, the RPMs will drop down lower, probably hurting your acceleration, but once you reach higher RPMs, that is when you will start to catch up. Your top speed will be good, but your acceleration will not be. This is bad, because if the opponent accelerates so much better than you, you might not have that oppurtunity to even see him again. I like to tune gear ratios for both, usually more towards top speed because I race on Wangan constanly. All rounder gear ratios are usually narrow enough to stay in the "Powerband" (this is where you get the most power out of your car). The powerband can be found by pressing "L2" on the main menu screen in "Quest" mode. You want to make the gear ratios stay over the RPM listed for "Max Power". If it goes a little under, that's ok. Anyways, back to my explanation. Not only are they narrow enough to stay within powerband, they are wide enough to have a decent top speed. So basically, these gear ratios put out the full potential of your car. This is why I use these type of settings the most. If you even want to take advantage of these gear ratios (all of them), then don't use shift assist. Make sure shift assist is off. (This means it has the manual transmission) Once you are use to using the manual transmission, just fix up the "Final" gear ratio for the base of it. If you think just fixing the Final gear is good enough for your car, then just keep it that way. After I set my Final gear, I fix up the other gears specifically. If you don't want to waste too much time, but want decent gear ratios, then I suggest you just fix the "Final" gear. III C. Progressing (Tuning) - Section b (Suspension) ------------------------------------- Suspension is quite complicated. I will explain everything here... First, there is the Spring Rate. The Spring Rate controls the transfer of weight of the car. During acceleration and braking the weight transfers back and forth between the front and rear of the car. Softer springs will make weight transfer easier to that area. This means if I make the front springs softer than the rear springs, weight transfer will be easier to the front creating oversteer. If you make the springs softer in the back, understeer will be created. Stiffer springs resist weight transfer. Also, cars with stiffer springs have better response, but you don't want to make them too stiff or they will become rough on bumps, and yes, TXR3 has bumpy roads. Softer springs will have lack of response. You have to find a "middle" to Spring Rates, and those usually depend on how heavy the car is. I like softer spring rates on lighter cars. Dampers are Shocks. I usually set these similar to the Spring Rate levels as the Dampers and the Springs are usually considered two of the three parts of the suspension that are in sync with eachother. Stablizers control the car's body roll in cornering. Stabilizers that are higher in stiffness are stable, but you'll notice a loss of grip in cornering. This is because weight doesn't transfer as easily to the tires that are on the outside. Higher front value means understeer, and higher rear value means oversteer. Ride height is very simple. Just lower it all the way. It decreases the center of gravity and increases cornering abilities greatly. I usually don't touch Toe and Camber Angles, but if I want oversteer, I set the front slightly negative for both, and if I don't want oversteer, I set both to zero. III C. Progressing (Tuning) - Section c (Other) ------------------------------------- Some cars don't have as much to fix here as others. I will explain them all anyways. For the brakes, setting bias to the front (Meaning, having more percentage where is says "F") will cause understeer with the brakes. What I mean, is that if you brake and turn at the same time, you will understeer. Setting bias to the rear (More percentage where it says "R") will cause oversteer. If you brake and turn at the same time, expect your car to lose control. I usually set mine to 95% and 90%. This will make sure it brakes good, but it doesn't understeer too much. First of all, for the boost level, you have to have a Turbocharged car with a Engine Level of 1 or higher. The higher you set it, the more power you get, but the faster it wears out. I just set this to 2, to get power, but not too much to wear the engine out quickly. For downforce, you have to buy a "Spoiler" that is "Types 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5". Once you do this, you will be able to adjust downforce. Increased downforce will increase your handling, but it will slow you down on the straightaways. This is because more downforce increases "drag". I usually don't set my downforce high because I tune my suspension good enough for handling, and I constantly race my friends on Wangan. For "4WD" controller, putting it on allows you to control the weight distribution of a 4WD car. Setting the bias towards the back (putting the bar near the "R") will make it feel like a RWD car. Putting it towards the front will make it handle like a FF car. I'm also pretty sure that it effects how good it's straightaway speed is. AWD cars have more drivetrain loss than RWD and FF cars. FF = Front Engine, Front Wheel Drive RWD = Rear Wheel Drive IV. Outro / Credits ------------------------------------- What I plan to have in the future: 1. List of all the bosses and what cars they own, and maybe some info on them. This is the conclusion of my FAQ. I hope this FAQ helped you. If you have any questions, just contact me on the message boards or AIM / email. I'd also want to remind you to ask me for my permission to use any information on this FAQ. Remember...DO NOT RIP / STEAL / TAKE ANYTHING FROM THIS FAQ. I can't say this enough. You can view this freely, but do not redistribute it without my permission. This FAQ is only allowed on the sites I've listed near the beginning of this FAQ. Tell me if anyone is using it without my permission. Thanks! Me (MKiii Supra) - Writing this FAQ W i n g - For allowing me to use his car list CJayC - For putting this FAQ on his website You - For reading the FAQ -=CopyRight Ryan Odi 2006=-
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