############################################################################### Nurburgring Nordschleife Speed Guide - Gran Turismo 4 ############################################################################### By Mike Kimball Version 2.4, April 9, 2010 ######## CONTENTS ######## Copyright Notice Contact The Author Foreword Acknowledgements Version Updates The Car Arcade mode setup Practice mode setup Game Equipment G25 Pedal Mod (for use with DFP wheel) Disk Read Error (fix) Shoes - On or Off? Left-Foot Braking Driving Tips That Have Helped Me Go Faster Nordschleife - Step by Step (Includes all corner names and time splits) Looking Forward Addendum 1 - racing setups Setup for 2-lap Family Cup (heavy fuel) Setup for 15-lap Formula race Notes on pit strategy for 15-lap Addendum 2 - sub-5'00 examples Addendum 3 - lap milestones Addendum 4 - experimentation ================ COPYRIGHT NOTICE ================ Copyright 2010 Mike Kimball Intended for private, personal, and educational usage only. Originally written to be displayed on www.gamefaqs.com. Please notify me if you've posted it somewhere else. All trademarks and copyrights contained in this document are owned by their respective trademark and copyright holders. ================== Contact The Author ================== I welcome email from fellow 'Ring fans anytime. Please mention this guide in the subject. Send to bloodmetalcontent at yahoo dot com. ======== Foreword ======== "For a quick lap at the Nurburgring, you've probably experienced more in seven minutes and six or seven seconds than most people have experienced in all their lives in the way of fear, in the way of tension, in the way of animosity towards machinery and to a racetrack." --Jackie Stewart, 1973 First of all, as the game disclaimer states, the game may differ from real life in terms of the cars and tracks in appearance and handling, and thus the information in this guide also may differ from your real car in real life. I've done one passenger lap in the Zakspeed Viper Jet, so there are most certainly others far better suited to give advice on attacking this very challenging and dangerous circuit in person. I've heard some tourists have misinterpreted GT4, and therefore have pushed too hard and cracked up their cars. Many elements of the game (grip, power, reliability, and especially braking) tend to be somewhat idealized, and even the masterful job of recreating the track still lacks some depth of detail in the real experience. Also it is a lot easier to go fast in a game were there is no real gravity on your body, or damage when you hit something, or risk in pushing the car or yourself too hard. So if you go there for real, forget about your lap time from the game and just try to remember what you learned about the track layout, because it might be a very different experience for you. Even if you've clocked a 4'41, this is only a vague notion of what it was like for Stefan Bellof's record of 6'11 in his Porsche 956 (which no one has been able to touch since then). I don't mean to be pedantic but it's hard to overstate this point. By the time I visited the Nurburgring in late August 2007 I had turned 600 laps in the game and watched many different dvds of in-car footage. This familiarity with the track layout deepened the experience for me - the thrill is greatly increased when corners no longer all look the same and you know what is coming up next. Even with quite a lot of traffic we went BTG in 8'20 (traffic-corrected, our average speed was over 90mph, and I'm fairly certain we were going about 175 in Kesselchen). That Zakspeed Viper is truly amazing, I highly recommend it. In 2008 I spent 9 days at the Bertil Roos road racing school, including visits to VIR, NJ Motorsports, and Pocono North. The great thing about actual racing is how much sooner you sense the car reacting to your inputs - especially moments where the weight transfer might start to get you in trouble. When you've only driven street cars and racing simulators, driving a formula 2000 car on a real race circuit is a revelation. As Lewis Black has joked, "Oh, so this is what cars are *supposed* to do." This guide is geared for those who seek suggestions to improve their time in GT4, and who have, at the minimum, memorized the track. It helps if you know the track well enough to race with your display set to simple, which turns off the flashing gear suggestions (which are not always accurate). I'm not the fastest driver in the world but I do hope this guide can inspire or help you in some way, as it also helps me continue to evolve... ================ Acknowledgements ================ I would like to acknowledge some sources which have offered specific inspiration for this guide: justgofaster.com, Nurburgring for Dummies by Christopher Heiser, and of course Ben Lovejoy's awesome guide (including the corner names and the very informative translations/history). As for other acknowledgements, I must mention dvds from FIA Formula 1 2000-2008, Best Motoring International vols. 9-16 and Tsuchiya�s Drift Bible, and Skip Barber's Going Faster. Also, much thanks for the In Car 956 dvd featuring Derek Bell and his commentary of a lap at Nurburgring, and the Nissan GT-R dvd featuring fantastic laps from 'ringmeister Dirk Schoysman. And also, the book "Winning, a Racing Driver's Guide", by George A. Anderson, with guest authors Carroll Smith and Bertil Roos among others. Special thanks to all who made it possible for me to visit the Nurburgring in person at last - my bus driver Max first and foremost for setting it all up, my former band and crew, especially our tour manager Oise for helping make it possible, and all at Zakspeed for an amazing high-speed experience. And finally, all at Bertil Roos Racing School. No amount of time in a simulator is as valuable as even one day at a real track, and what I learned from them has made a huge difference. =============== Version Updates =============== Version 2.4 - Notes on Disk Read Error fix that worked for me - New fast times and a few tweaks to the lap guide - Added English corner names Version 2.3 - The usual small updates to times and setups, and one tweak to Pflanz 1 - Notes on modifying the G25 pedal board to work with the DFP wheel Version 2.2 - New fast times and lap guide adjustments - New car setup approaches (much softer) Version 2.1 - New fast times and lap guide adjustments - New car setup approaches Version 2.0 - Added justgofaster-inspired summaries of each section - New fast times and setup notes Version 1.9 - Further updates to text of lap description for references, gearing, etc - New fast times and setups Version 1.8 - General text updates, new times, and setups - Sections updated to include more info on reference points Version 1.7 - More updates including a note from my racing school visit - New fast times and setups Version 1.6 - The usual corrections, updates, and evolution of the line - New fast times and setups Version 1.5 - As usual, some corrections of inaccuracies and omissions - New fast times and setups - Setups now include arcade mode, as well as Gran Tourismo mode - Added a lap milestones section with my personal lap tally Version 1.4 - New fast time and setup updates - Addendum containing a setup for racing conditions (fuel and tire wear) - More updates to the turn-by-turn guide and racing hints Version 1.3 - Wouldn't ya know it? I had to correct a couple of omissions from 1.2 - Wouldn't ya know it? I abandoned the rear toe/front downforce experiment - Wouldn't ya ... I changed the setup and finally managed to go faster Version 1.2 - New info in The Car and Driving Tips sections - Added Left-Foot Braking section - Added Addendum 2 - experimentation Version 1.1 - A couple of minor errors have been corrected. - My record time and splits have been updated - along with new info about the car setup and the incidentals of the lap. - There is now an addendum of other example times/setups that beat 5'00. ======= The Car ======= I prefer to use a Formula Gran Turismo when I do time attacks at the 'Ring. When going for a best time, you can use Practice (Gran Turismo mode) or Time Trial (arcade mode) in order to race without fuel or tire wear to worry about and also give you the option of having a ghost replay to use as a guide. (Sometimes this is more of a distraction, but it is useful to record your best time or even a lap that had certain good segments to help develop some consistency). The difference in lap time between practice and arcade mode has now narrowed to around 8 seconds for me - I still think driving the formula car at the Nurburgring in arcade mode is ... well I'll say it, it's a PITA to drive since the setup is so nervous and the pace is pretty far from reality. It's so light, so low, so hard, and so much rear toe, that the car feels like every bump is trying to snap you off the track. I have to trick myself by setting up the car harder to drive and get accustomed to that first, or do a race first (with fuel and tire wear). It's worth the experience to race the formula car in arcade mode, but you will be pushing yourself, the game, and even the force feedback mechanism to the limit. These days I rarely practice the Nurb in the FGT in arcade mode, but the advances in practice made it relatively easy to improve my time in arcade when I got around to trying. Other cars that are fast enough to beat the 5-minute mark include many group C cars such as the Audi R8 or Minolta Toyota 88C-V, which may be a lot easier to drive if you are using arcade mode. Most of the fast times I've seen on YouTube were done with the Minolta, or the McLaren Mercedes C9. I think it is a good idea to do time attacks with different cars just so you can see how varying handling characterists can change your approach or point out details about the circuit you may not notice in the Formula car. Of course every setup is made up of compromises, especially at Nurburgring where the circuit is incredibly varied so the car setup works great in some sections but not as well in others. The setup you use might vary according to your driving style as it applies to different situations on the course. Over time, as my setups have evolved and come back again, I've noticed that a point I remember from "Winning" seems correct - that once the setup is in the ballpark, it's rare that further tweaks themselves will result in a faster lap time. It might make the car easier to drive though, or merely suit the driver's style better so as to give enough confidence to improve. Two to tango, as it were. Ultimately the car setup can seem to help or hinder you depending on how you are driving that day, so its effects should be considered less important than the ability to adjust one's driving style. Nurburgring Nordschleife is probably the best example of how crucial this adaptability is to getting around the track in one piece, let alone setting a fast time. There is a reason some drivers get paid more than others - it's because the driving is still the single most important factor in going faster. That said, here are my Formula car setups and times for reference... Arcade mode setup: ------------------ +20% power (1069), -10% weight (495), 400kph, driving aids 0 Tires: RS (front), RSS (rear) Personal record: 4'40.824 In order to get more grip and balance I use softer rear tires; I also put the gearing up to 390kph, or 400kph if my feet are too heavy. Steering options - feedback strength I always set on Strong, but just for arcade mode I add Power Assist on, since the bouncy feedback gets a little crazy. The throttle is the biggest element of balance here, steering minimally since the car is extremely twitchy. Practice mode setup: -------------------- It hit me one weekend while watching the 1976 F1 season review in which Niki Lauda was talking about how he could go faster because the car was easier to drive; also how many drivers in 2009 mentioned how nice the Mercedes engine was because of its predictable power delivery; all of this made me think why not examine my car setup and improve these areas (particularly the suspension, transmission, and then slightly tweaking the diff). Basically on most courses you want to set the suspension stiff and low, but a bumpy circuit like the Nurburgring changes everything. If the car is nervous then it is probably too hard, and you aren't getting the best grip. But it is also possible for it to be too soft (you'll notice braking and cornering will not quite respond as expected or trace the line you desire). I've found that you can go fully soft on the springs and half the dampers too and it will still be reasonably good - easier to drive, more responsive, less likely to lose grip in corners where bumps upset the handling, and even the top speed is higher (220mph in Schwedenkreutz). Even when too much adrenaline makes my hands start shaking, the car still feels responsive and doesn't get away from me. Without any new revelations about the circuit, just because it is easier to drive and I can get on the power sooner in corners and not muck about with corrections, I instantly made a jump and have been trying to refine it from there. I've tried stiffer springs off and on (around 10.6) but it never seems to help for long. This setup doesn't respond well to too many busy inputs, but if you're smooth, it works great. Here's what I used to get my best, and with this I can consistently hit 4'49s: Suspension Spring rate: 10.0, 10.0 Ride height: 65, 65 Bound: 4, 4 Toe: 0, 0 Transmission - Manual Gear ratios: auto 17 5th: 2.003 6th: 1.666 7th: 1.440 Driving aids: 0, 0, 0 Diff: 11, 41, 24 (Steering Power Assist: OFF) Personal record: 4'48.974 T1 30.855 T7 3'06.327 T2 54.496 T8 3'33.623 T3 1'14.465 T9 3'47.239 T4 1'48.043 T10 4'14.864 T5 2'13.749 T11 4'32.802 T6 2'32.146 L1 4'48.974 ============== Game Equipment ============== If you are using the PS2 controller to drive the car, I can only say best of luck. Any wheel you could get would probably make you faster. My current setup: Logitech Driving Force Pro wheel Logitech G25 pedals (modified, see below) Sparco cockpit with a Sienna seat (reclined) When I first got the Sparco cockpit and G25 wheel, my game improved dramatically. Unfortunately the G25 didn't last as long as its price tag so I switched back to the DFP and I actually enjoy it more. I think the Sparco cockpit is what makes the biggest difference. To me the wheel feels better and more stable on the DFP, but the pedals are too light. The pedals are great on the G25, but they aren't originally compatible with the DFP wheel. I also recently bought the DF GT wheel and like an idiot I didn't fully check its compatibility, so to my dismay I found that it doesn't work at all on the PS2, and it is not supported for PS2 games run on the PS3. What I found is that it works for a while, but there's a glitch that causes the throttle very suddenly to stick wide open and the only way to fix it is to quit the game. Also, the wheel is like a cross between the G25 features and the DFP materials - so it is still plastic, with the same pedals as the DFP, but the mechanism of the G25 wheel (meaning now the wheel AND the pedals are too light). My original DFP wheel is pretty worn out now and does a funny thing where it goes off center when I run over kerbs or do too vigorous a maneuver... I did manage to find one "like new" on Amazon and it is just awesome, amazing how much it makes a difference - the wheel feels heavy and tight again and all of my personal records have improved dramatically as a result. G25 Pedal Mod (for use with DFP wheel) -------------------------------------- The following advice will almost certainly void your warranty, so read on only if you don't mind that, and also, don't attempt this unless you are fairly good with small electronics and are not taking chances with your only game equipment. I take no responsibility if your workmanship is not successful. This is just my notes on what I did to get mine to work. To make the G25 pedals work with the DFP wheel takes some rewiring, mainly because the G25 brake wiring is backwards. I went to Radio Shack to get some wiring and connectors. This also requires some tools (a wire stripper, and a Phillips screwdriver). I also went to Home Depot for some sticky Velcro (this is how I fasten the board so that I can get a better adjustment on the seat, wheel, and pedal board positions). Basically what I did is take the wiring out of one of my DFP pedal boards, then bring it with me to buy wiring and connectors that are small enough to adapt to it. You'll only need to add a few inches to the length of three of the wires due to the differing physical layout of the pedal switches. On the wiring of the switches, you'll see that both pedals have a red and a black wire on the left and right, plus a third middle wire which is either white or green. Here are the configurations that work with the DFP wheel: DFP pedals original wiring (left to right - connectors on bottom): Throttle - single black, green, single red Brake - double black, white, double red G25 pedals (again l-r connectors, right is nearest the red pedal pistons): Throttle - double black, white, double red Brake - *single red*, green, *single black* Also, judicious use of electrical tape since the wires aren't grounded like they are on the wiring loom of the G25 - cover any protruding metal where the wire could touch; and with cutting/stripping/crimping, make it as clean as possible. The smallest wiring and connectors I could find were still a bit larger than the existing, but I found with some bending I could get a nice snug fit. I haven't had any problems in two months of testing, though I did decide the brake pedal is a bit too stiff, so I switched it with the clutch pedal (and also, I put this all the way on the left, so there's an empty space in the middle; this way I don't hit my knees on the underside of the steering wheel clamps). Finally, to make the Sparco cockpit accommodate the pedals and the reclined position, I had to turn the foot panel upside down and use a great amount of industrial strength sticky velcro... which is nice because it holds perfectly but is still adjustable. Disk Read Error (fix) --------------------- Ugh, this can be annoying. From what I read, it largely affects those using the older version of the PS2 console (which I do, I like having a nice tray that pops out) when trying to read dual-layer discs (which means games like God of War and unfortunately, Gran Turismo 4). For a while I was getting by with the Browser and just repeatedly trying the eject/read cycle until it loaded; but this got very tedious. For a while I also tried running the game on my PS3, but I found this frustrating as well (graphically, and the feel of the force feedback too was not quite right for extreme time attacks in the formula car; stuff you hardly notice in any other situation with any other car but in the FGT at the 'Ring I just couldn't put up with it). The fix is so simple (or at least it was for me): clean the laser lens. You might try one of those disc cleaners, but my console is well out of warranty so I just opened the case and took off the top shield on the disc drive, then used the old alcohol and q-tip method. Voila - the game works fine again as if it were brand new. ================== Shoes - On or Off? ================== My suggestion is use what you are comfortable with. At my house we are shoeless so I got all of my quickest times wearing socks - this seems to be ideal for the game since it compensates for the lack of feedback and weight in the pedals. ================= Left-Foot Braking ================= Many drivers say this skill is indispensable in racing - and both karting and Formula 1 pretty much require it. Even when you are driving a car that has a clutch, in some situations where no gear shift is needed it can be useful to employ left-foot braking for stability as well as a quicker braking reaction time. I began practicing this extensively in my old car and in the game I use it exclusively. Even at racing school in some corners it came in handy. At this point it has improved my fastest time in pretty much every car, not to mention making it easier to drive in other conditions (especially rally; but then real rally drivers are constantly shifting both feet between brake/gas and brake/clutch). ========================================== Driving Tips That Have Helped Me Go Faster ========================================== First, always bear in mind that as you improve in one section, it changes your approach to the next, and so on. All it takes is time, practice, and gradual improvements in your knowledge of the car and the track. Very often when you are pushing your limit and going off the track, getting frustrated, feeling like quitting ;) you are actually just on the verge of making a huge improvement. So just remember it's all part of the process of training your brain and your muscle memory. Take a rest, come back a few hours or a day later, and you'll be surprised how easy it suddenly gets. It was often the same way when I was learning the guitar. Next, if you want to improve your lap time, it is crucial to consider the importance of corner exits over late braking. Obviously I brake as late as I can, but braking later improves time in hundredths of a second, while getting on the throttle earlier for the exit improves your time in tenths. Remember that the reverse is also true - braking too early loses time in just hundredths, but braking too late and then getting on the throttle late loses time in tenths. What this means is you should work backward - get the exit point right first, then try to improve your entry, then finally polish your braking point. The correct braking point goes hand in hand with the correct turn-in and throttle point however - braking too early often invites turning too early, which can lead to going off the track at the exit; while braking too late means you waste a lot of time going past the ideal turn-in and in some corners you may not make the turn at all. The simplest thing I try to remember is that the lap time is essentially the sum of throttle and braking, and the finish line is a finite point, so whatever gets me there earlier is good, and I want to avoid doing anything that makes the lap longer by adding more time braking, coasting, feathering, or otherwise not on full throttle. Essentially the ideal that we want to work toward (though we may not always achieve it) is the Bertil Roos idea of Full Throttle, Full Brake, Full Time. What this means is you are working toward an ideal that you know the track and your car so well, that you only use either full throttle, or full brake, but nothing else. Again, this is an IDEAL - it doesn't mean we ignore our techniques of light braking, feathering the throttle, line recovery, etc when we get in trouble or when certain track areas require it. There probably are tracks where FT/FB/FT is possible, but I don't think the 'Ring is one of them. Here, you just try to reach that ideal in sections that are smooth enough to allow it. Another valuable piece of advice is from Petter Solberg: "You have to try to be very neat, no attack, because as soon as you try to push harder, you go slower. So just keep it neat and steady." Professor Nakaya seems to concur, that in some situations the driver's attempt to push harder will be useless since it only increases the steering angle as well as the friction of the wheels on the pavement, which cancels out or even negates any increase the driver desires to make. Again, aggressive driving is often useful in racing, but for time attack you want to be as smooth as possible, and in some corners you just want to maintain revs but apply only enough throttle to get the right balance. The book "Winning" had some interesting advice also - basically that you should not feel "comfortable" while racing - you should be going at the limit and often fighting for grip on every corner. What I've found is on many corners you want to go for a certain amount of slip to get the optimum exit and full acceleration. This will of course make it difficult to control wheel spin as well as keeping the rear from sliding around as you try to steer your way out. Another way to put it, sometimes your steering may feel sloppy or busy as you try to manage the low traction situation known as maximum acceleration. Undulating corners are all over the place at Nordschleife, but they are not as friendly and predictable as a track like Suzuka, so you will need to think about how weight transfer affects braking and throttle as your car alternates quickly between understeer and oversteer, often in the same corner - not easy to do in a video game, where the vertical changes aren't always visually obvious. (The only exception to this that I've seen is Need for Speed Most Wanted - somehow they made it really clear graphically, there is no ambiguity about the elevation changes. How did they do that?) If you find spots where you tend to spin out even with steady throttle and steering input, an undulation is probably the cause. In some cases it can also be crowned pavement but this is the same thing, just laterally. Once you feel really dialed in after many laps of practice, you'll start to experience feeling like it's just basic flowing lines, using as smooth and steady inputs as you can manage, adjusting the acceleration for the shape of each corner. (I can hear Bruce Lee saying "Don't think! Feeeeeeeel...") Your mind is clear and calm because your body is just nailing each section. When you feel it, it is magic. Ok, now it's time to take a lap around the track! =========================== Nordschleife - Step by Step =========================== Note: I include the reference points I usually notice, but frequently I look at the kerbs - front edges for braking points, back edges for turn in points, etc. There is also graffiti all over the track, so pick what works for you but remember that where the graffiti stops, if you still haven't finished braking and turning in yet, you might have some trouble. T13 (grandstand section) ------------------------ 5th - Brake-4-3-2 - left - 3-4-5 - right bend - 6th - right - 7th - left bend If you got a good exit from the final right turn of Hohenrain, you should be coming toward the start/finish straight accelerating from 3rd gear through 4th and 5th, tracking to the right side, and then braking down to 2nd gear for the first left. Because it's downhill, it's easy to miss the apex here. I've tried a lot of different lines but apexing where there is a bunch of graffiti seems to be quickest and allow full power earlier. Flat out into 6th gear for the second right, where the rear wants to come out on the exit if you push too hard, so turn in early about where the yellow graffiti is, and squeeze out of the wheel a bit on the exit. 7th gear before you brake for the next section. Hatzenbach (Hatzen Brook) ------------------------- Brake-6-5-left-4 - double right - 5th - left - 4th - right, quick left I have started taking the left while downshifting all the way to 4th so I can throttle earlier through the right; I think it also keeps the rear end a bit more stable. Back up to 5th for the next left about where the path is, throttle through, then keep the revs high in 4th to throttle to the right, then dab the brakes to medium revs in 4th for the hard throttle to the left, exiting wide and heading to the next section in 5th gear. Hocheichen (Great Oaks) ----------------------- Brake-4-3 - right - 4th just before crest - left - flat 5-6-7 This corner made me start examining my ride height. As you approach the first right, brake fairly early down to 3rd gear, turn in at the red graffiti and give it a lot of gas toward the crest; shift to 4th before the left, where it is quite slippery, keep on the throttle maybe with a quick lift and let the car track to the right edge on exit. Flat out to the next section. Quiddelbacher Hohe (Quiddelbach Height) --------------------------------------- T1 0'29.988 Flat - over crest - right (29.8 at T1 is possible.) This section is flat out but bumpy, stick to the basics and you should reach 7th gear before the brutal crest at the start of the next section. Flugplatz (Airfield, literally "Flying Place") ---------------------------------------------- Flat - over crest - settle - double right - left Go over the left center of the crest as straight as you can and try not to come off the throttle. You should have a beat to let the car settle before heading into the double-apex right-hander. This corner is very easy to get wrong going flat out at this speed, and is the main place that made me set the toe to zero in my practice setup, but this is all flat in 7th gear if you take it smoothly enough. Barely touch the first apex, and you should come around the second one in a single arc. Keep going flat out into the next section. Schwedenkreuz (Swedish Cross) ----------------------------- (Top speed 232mph TT, 220mph GT) Flat 7th - crest - careful long bumpy left - still flat This is all flat out, in 7th gear. Go over the crest near the middle or slightly right but go as straight as possible. The next long left is totally flat, but you need to be very gentle with the turn in, and there is a bump about half-way through that can be unsettling. Also, try not to touch the inside kerb which tends to throw off your balance. Try to make the car track slightly left of center as you get ready to brake hard down to 4th into the next section. Aremberg -------- T2 0'52.796 BRAKE-6-5-4 - long right - flat on exit (Again T2 could be 52.6 but wasn't this time...) It's important for your time to get a good exit here so concentrate on your braking point and get a good line. There's some red graffiti on the pavement that I usually use as a reference. This is a somewhat long right-hander so throttle control is important. If you can do this without 3rd gear it will improve your time but 4th can also cause a lot of understeer. Try to get a straight line for good acceleration on the exit toward the bridge. You can take a lot of kerb on the exit if you have to but avoid it normally. Fuchsrohre (Foxhole or "Fox's Neck") ------------------------------------ Flat 4-5-6-7 - compression left - little lift - left - dab 5th - right Drive through the bends as straight as you can, touching each kerb, until you approach the compression that leads up the hill to the left. You can stay completely flat all the way to 7th gear. As you come up the hill stay to the right, and the left over the crest is nearly flat in 7th but go as straight as you can, or better turn early and avoid the kerb, then quickly drop to 5th and again back on the throttle, revs steady for the right. Hug the kerb without touching it, then as the track straightens drop to 3rd (purple graffiti works for me) to prepare for the next section. Adenauer Forst (Adenau Forest) ------------------------------ T3 1'12.189 Track right - brake-4-3 - early left - right - 4th - exit - flat 5-6-7 This section is wonderful for going off the track or spinning out. I used to have trouble at this spot fairly often - the trick is don't get tempted to brake too late since it is more important to get a really good exit. Turn left at the yellow graffiti line and you should be set up for the right. I also find that jumping the kerb for the right turn rarely improves my time as much as just keeping all four wheels on the pavement. If you are patient and focus on setting up early throttle for the right and a good exit, it's a lot easier to find time here. You should be well into 5th gear as you pass the section timer. I've seen a 1'11.999 here before, so there's more time to find again later. Continue accelerating flat out into 7th for the next section. Metzgesfeld (Metzge's Field) ---------------------------- Flat - left - brake-6-5-4 - left - 5th - right - 6th This is another easy spot to lose control, so be very careful with your line and try to stay off the kerb on the inside left. There is more grip on the outside of the turn but it's difficult to make that stick. If you tend to spin here, relax your turning arc sooner on the exit. Keep it flat in 7th gear all the way through the left, then brake down to 4th for the next left. Again, there is some white spray paint to help as a turn reference, but watch the kerb and in 4th the throttle can be tricky at first (it's also very boggy if you turn in too late). 5th gear by the right turn apex and down the hill. You may reach 6th briefly before the next braking. Kallenhard (Kallen Forest) -------------------------- Brake-5-4-3 - right - 4-5-6 Let the car track left as you come down the hill, and you want to brake fairly early and drop back to 3rd. The kerb on the inside right is a good reference, brake at its front edge. Apex late but get on the inside until you can see a clear exit, shift to 4th, and track to the outside. Continue through 5th and 6th as you approach the next scary section of the track. Spiegelkurve (unofficial, "Mirror Curve") ----------------------------------------- Flat 6th - left-right - sort out messy exit Definitely my numero uno lap killers, Spiegelkurve and Miss-Hit-Miss. This 6th gear left-right is brutal at high speed, and has made me blow countless laps and do endless tweaking to the car. The cambers shift violently from left to right, almost like a side-to-side brow, so if you steer too hard or take a bad line you will almost certainly spin out. Pass through as straight as possible, with only minimal steering inputs. I finally found a wide line that also works but the entry has to be absolutely perfect in running close to each kerb. The idea is to look at the kerb for the right and all you have to do is just miss it. I take this full throttle if I get it right, avoiding the kerb but if I roll over it (and some grass), so be it. Don't try to make any wild corrections - it will already be too late and there's no grip to work with. "Miss-Hit-Miss" (also Drei Rechte, "Three Rights") -------------------------------------------------- 6th - bleed revs - miss - hit - flat 6th - miss - 7th This is another place where the turns feel like they change on you so you don't want to be accelerating and tightening your turning arc at the same time. I can leave it in 6th but right after the "hit" kerb it often tries to throw the rear loose so there's a dab of the brake before it and some easing on the steering afterward. If you get the car to the right spot on the "hit" kerb then you can keep the throttle flat for the exit without worrying about the rear end. Throttle hard down the straight in 7th. Wehrseifen (Resistance Valley) ------------------------------ T4 1'45.091 Brake-6-5-right-4-3-2 - left - 3rd - right - 4th - exit - flat 5-6 This is a very slow corner where much time can be lost, so it's important to be as accurate as possible. I now combine all my downshifting into the right turn to make sure I'm done braking by the turn-in at the last line of white paint. If I go past this then I know I'm too deep and losing time. Accelerate smoothly through 2nd and 3rd for the left and get into 4th for the following right turn. Pass the T4 section time in 5th and then 6th into the next section. Breidscheid ----------- Right bend - brake-5-4 - double left watch the wall - 5th Approach the right bend in 6th gear but start braking for the left somewhat early - you want to be in 4th and close to the inside, and this is a corner that will really mess you up if you are late (in real life there is a concrete wall here, so we are talking serious damage). The pavement is quite rough so the exit is difficult to do with full throttle, and going too wide makes it hard to set up the following right turn. Get 5th on the exit and the car will get some acceleration to the next bit. Line the car up as straight as you can leading to the next bit. Ex-Muhle (Water Mill) --------------------- Bumpy - early, light brake 4th - minimum speed, light power - right - flat 5-6 This section MUST be done delicately. It is very bumpy so you'll find if you time your turning and throttle with suspension compression it is a lot easier; if you are out of sync you'll find sluggish turning and wheel spin. Approach in 5th gear and brake lightly and early since it gets bumpy, uphill, and off camber - the entry will understeer so use the graffiti and turn in somewhat early, staying tight on the apex. Little bit of crest here so release your arc and get good throttle on the exit, but if you go too wide it will take a while to get back on the power. Also be careful accelerating up the hill - you should get up to 5th before the crest but if you push too hard you might get wheel spin and possibly lose the rear. Continue flat out through 6th gear into the next section. Lauda Links ----------- Flat 7th - left In the Formula car there isn't much to this - stay hard on the throttle and you should reach 7th gear near the apex, after which you can keep accelerating down the hill and track a bit off to the left before the next section. Bergwerk (Mine, literally "Mountain Work") ------------------------------------------ Brake-6-5-4 - right - flat 5-6-7 Similar to Ex-Muhle though not as delicate, this is one of the most important corners for getting a strong exit. This corner's odd shape and weird camber make most attempts to brake late end in understeer followed by tracking wide into the Armco - usually I use the green sign on the right as a reference, braking at or just after it. Brake consistently to 4th, and though this is a late apex corner, the entry is a bit earlier than you may think because of the uphill and the camber. Work the throttle patiently and get a good exit. This will give you good speed up the hill into one of the longer flat-out sections of the track. Kesselchen (Little Valley, "Little Bottom") ------------------------------------------- T5 2'10.057 Flat 7th - left, left, left, left, right, right, left The Formula car easily takes this flat all the way through. There is a series of left bends where you should reach 7th gear. The next right curves are quite bumpy, which is one place where stability control can freak out and careen you into the Armco. After this there is a quick right-left, so try to miss-hit the split kerbs on the right, then just touch the edge of the kerb on the left. Aim for a straight line that will put you on the kerb up close to the Armco at the right edge, and brace for the next section. Mutkurve (Courage Curve, also Angstkurve, "Fear curve") ------------------------------------------------------- T6 2'27.492 Flat 7th - double left This left hander is another spot where it is very easy to push too hard and lose the rear end, and was another contributor to my zero toe setting in practice. Take this flat and be very careful with your line, and stay close to the kerb on the inside left, then ease off the wheel just as the car tracks through to the kerb on the outside right where you think you'll end up on the grass. Klostertal (Convent Valley) --------------------------- (Top speed: 224mph TT, 212mph GT) Flat 7th - early right - crest - relaxed exit This is yet another place where it is easy to spin out if you turn too hard on a bad line, so turn right early with some anticipation of where the kerb appears, and then ease off the wheel on the exit, and the car should remain relatively stable. Steilstrecke (Steep Stretch) ---------------------------- BRAKE-6-5-4-3 - double right - 4th - exit - 5-6 This tight curve is hidden by a crest that you will go over flat out, then brake just before the kerb on the left drop to 3rd. This is another curve that has a couple of apexes, and it seems best to enter in 3rd gear and be up to 4th passing the second apex. There are gentle bends leading to the next section but you can easily go straight and keep accelerating, just reaching 6th gear before dropping hard back to 3rd again. There is a particular shadow that protrudes from the right which I use as a reference. Karussell --------- Brake-5-4-3 - long left - exit - 4-5-6-7 You can make or lose a lot of time here because of how slow and long it is. This tight banked corner is easiest if you keep the car inside but not all the way to the kerb, and keep the revs steady in 3rd, around 62mph, until you reach a patch of graffiti where you can start accelerating if your car is still in the banking. Pop over the last corner stone and start throttling hard toward the next section. Hohe Acht (High Lookout, after the hut) --------------------------------------- T7 3'00.932 Brake-6-5 - left - right - throttle to 6th - Brake-5-4 - right - 5-6 You should be high in 6th gear, after exiting Karussell and passing the tricky left-hander flat out - sometimes I get 7th before dropping to 5th for the tight left-right toward the summit. This is a little like a less severe Spiegelkurve that is uphill - don't turn too hard since the cambers pull the car to the left on entry. Gas steady for the left so you can set up a good line for the right. Try to have a patient bit of throttle but sometimes you may need a small dab of brake to get the car to turn right and over the crest. For the final downhill right turn you want to brake early down to 4th and stay tight on the inside so you can be back on the throttle hard at the apex. Then a gentle left bend in 5th and up to 6th. Hedwigshohe (Hedwig's Height) ----------------------------- Flat 6th - light brake - 6th Believe it or not you can take this flat in 6th if you get the right line, but you have to keep the car steady and smooth on the steering before you tap the brake at the exit and drop revs for the next curve. Getting this wrong will totally blow your balance into... Wipperman (Seesaw Man) ---------------------- Double left - right - 6th This spot is an easy place to lose it because of the abrupt way that it goes downhill, and when I went to the real track we saw an accident here. This tricky left-right gets a bit snappy and has a tendency to toss you right off the track, so you'll find is a lot easier in the Formula if you concentrate on keeping the car balanced. Usually I avoid the kerbs and just be patient - if I keep 6th then there's not much throttle but sometimes I need 5th to get the car to turn. As you approach the next hill avoid braking too late since it will cause understeer that will probably put you on the grass as you go over the crest. Eschbach (Ash Brook) -------------------- Brake-5 - right over hill - 6th - brake-5-4 - double left - 5th I stay in 5th and turn earlier for this now. Come into the right hander over the hill, staying tight on the inside and hitting 6th as you start downhill on the exit. Brake somewhat early to drop back to 4th for the double left hander, which is another part where it is easy to lose the rear. Wait for the car to settle between apexes before you shift to 5th gear for the second apex. Then it's back to 4th for the next section. Brunnchen (Little Well) ----------------------- Brake-4th - right - 5th - brake-4th - right - 5th This is another dance between 4th and 5th gears. The first right hander is very easy to overcook as it is downhill, and very often you will find yourself all the way to the left on the exit, almost into the grass. If you can keep just the left wheels on the kerb you will still be able to get good throttle in 5th before the next right, again dropping to 4th for the turn and back to 5th as the car tracks to the outside of the exit (but be especially careful here, the sand will lose you a lot of time). There is a certain melody with the revs, dropping to 4th slightly lower each time. Eiskurve (Ice Curve) -------------------- T8 3'28.115 Brake-4th - early left - 5th through right - 6-7 This left-hander is again taken in 4th, but it seems longer and goes into a tricky right hander on the exit. I've started braking earlier (using the white graffiti as a turn-in reference - again like Wehrseifen, if you find the left is difficult to make it means you're too deep) so I can use more throttle. The pavement also crowns and is really slippery (hence the name), so stay in the middle of the pavement as you accelerate into 5th and 6th gears for the next section. Pflanzgarten 1 (Plant Garden) ----------------------------- Flat 7th - gentle brake - over crest STRAIGHT - settle-dab-6th-double right This wavy little section can be taken flat, sticking to the basics but ending up slightly to the left as you go over the little jump at the bottom before the rather difficult double right-hander. The crest is a spot where the car loves to leap sideways if you're not careful - I stopped using RSS tires mainly due to all the times this happened here. The trick is similar to Ex-Muhle in that your braking must be delicate, and as you go over the crest you don't want to brake or throttle - I listen for the car to go quiet here. Then a dab to 6th gear for the right. Keep accelerating but of course be as smooth as possible as you sweep through the double right toward the next part. Your exit here can make or lose considerable time all the way to Schwalbenschwanz. Sprunghugel (Leap Hill) ------------------------ Flat - left - 7th before exit - go STRAIGHT over left side of drop This first left is another easy place to mess up and not be in the right position to track to the rumble strip on the right side of the exit. It is vital to keep hard on the throttle in 6th and try to get into 7th gear before going over the crest, staying to the left while going as straight as possible. This drop can be extremely unsettling to the car at this speed so again, go over it as straight as you can. Heading into the next section is where your interplay between steering and throttle should be very careful. Stay away from the kerbs in this area. Pflanzgarten 2 -------------- T9 3'41.085 (Top speed: 228mph TT, 215mph GT) Flat 7th - hook up with dark inside patches - right, left, right, left This section is flat out in 7th and can be quite terrifying at this speed, since it is extremely easy to lose control if you try too hard to steer into the curves of the track. The dark patches on the insides of the bends will help so you won't have to steer so hard. Watch out for crowned pavement again in this section, at this speed it is not at all forgiving, and bumpy as well so be careful with your steering inputs and try to stay in the center of it, especially at the end where there is some braking to make the right turn. Of anywhere on the track, I think this section is most important not to grip the wheel too hard, you need to be able to feel the feedback of every little nuance and almost use your hands to absorb some of it. Schwalbenschwanz (Swallow Tail) ------------------------------- Flat 7th - dab - right - brake-6-5-4 - left - 5th This section gets slippery, and once you start sliding it can get very ugly no matter what attempts to brake/downshift/countersteer you use. I do this in 7th now but it takes a lot of commitment and finesse (meaning it is now way up there on most-likely-to-kill-lap). The trick is dab and turn early, get inside near the kerb and smoothly relax the exit. Staying perched on the center of the crowning helps the balance a lot. There's just not a lot of room for error and the tarmac is not forgiving either. Do it correctly and it will shave quite a lot of time. Then brake quickly to 4th for the left turn-in. Again there is useful graffiti to help you find good brake, apex, and exit points. 5th gear as you head on to the next part. Kleinekarussell (Little Karussell) ---------------------------------- Brake-4-3 - drop into banking left - shift 4th while popping out - flat 5-6 It's all too easy to underestimate this important corner. But since it is flat from here on, it's crucial to do this well. Approach in 5th and there is a change in the pavement that leaves a nice line for a braking reference, to 3rd. Drop about half the car inside and try to shift to 4th just as you pop out over the right corner of the last paving block. Continue through 5th, and into 6th for the approach to the next corner. Galgenkopf (Gallow Hill) ------------------------ Flat 6th - don't touch kerbs - right - right - 7th - right relaxed - exit This is the other lap killer, but being at the end means less opportunity, but more frustration potential ;) An aptly named, scary corner. The trick is getting the right hand apex - you definitely do not want to hit the kerb as you will almost certainly bounce and crash into the Armco, but if you go the slightest bit too wide you will not stay on the track. If you're feeling brave you can do this flat out, but your line must be perfect. There is a line of graffiti that I tend to think of as my turn in point, but mostly I stare at the inside kerb and try to miss it by a hair. Keep some turn on since the outside edge keeps coming in on you. Try to anticipate the kerb for the second right hander, keep it in 6th even if you redline, and start letting the car track left just at the point where the rear tries to break away. 7th once the car settles into the exit. You'll pass under the Gantry and receive your T10 section time. Dottinger Hohe (Dottingen High) ------------------------------- T10 4'07.640 Flat 7th - looooong straight - left - down hill Not much to this - keep it flat in 7th and stick just off center to the right. The car should be reaching top speed as you start on the incline before the bridge, let the car go all the way right... Antoniusbuche (Antonius' Beech) ------------------------------- T11 4'24.725 Turn early and ease through the left hander, totally wide open. You will get the T11 section time as you pass under the bridge. Keep it flat out down the hill... Tiergarten (Animal Garden) -------------------------- (Top speed: 230mph TT, 216mph GT) Flat 7th left-right This section near the end leads to a left-right that you can take flat out in the Formula car, so don't lift or anything, just stick to the basics and go as fast as you can. Once you clear the right and are going straight, immediately drop to 6th for the final section... Hohenrain (Raised Boundary) --------------------------- L1 4'40.824 Brake-6th-left-5-4-3 - right-4th-left - brake - 3rd - right - 4-5 I enter this left while braking down all in one motion... Cut to the inside left while braking into 6th, straighten and drop quickly down to 3rd for the right hander of the chicane, keeping the revs high but steady since this corner is an easy place to spoil what might have been a stellar lap time. I stay off the kerbs and shift to 4th just after the apex of the right, going into the left with full throttle. Brake to 3rd and get ready for the final right-hander. The pavement has a line in it that is a good reference for braking and turn-in. Aim for the Armco at the apex and just miss it - don't go too wide as you make your last effort at throttling hard up the hill to the finish. You should just make 5th gear as you cross and get your final lap time. =============== Looking Forward =============== "The Perfect Lap" - that elusive goal that we always try to reach. It's always interesting to compare a new best time to an old one and see how a 13-mile track leaves so many places to make mistakes, or at least lose time by being too conservative through difficult areas. Broken down into sectors, one doesn't always improve at every split, and even if the total time is faster, the lead you have built often fluctuates. Imagine then, what might happen if you built a composite time based on the best sector times, to see what the car is capable of based on your own abilities at that moment. I was way too conservative in the last two sections and lost .7, so I'm sure the car is capable of a low 4'40 or 4'39. I'll find out the same time as I find more patience to try another arcade time attack... ========================== Addendum 1 - racing setups ========================== Everything changes once you add in fuel load and tire wear. Ever since I switched back to the DFP wheel I've found I'm a little less tolerant of harder suspensions, probably because the pedals are so light and I tend to push the gas harder. It might also be because the G25 wheel feedback is a little rubbery while the DFP seems stronger. Maybe I just miss the Formula 2000 car with the small steering wheel and no power steering. One evolution I had to go through was getting so fed up with the twitchy handling that I started racing with the car set as soft as the springs go (10.0) and then working from there to find lines that were smoother, shorter and quicker. I put up with the different way the wheel feels when the car is heavy or light on fuel and if the tires are good or spent, and try not to focus on the car so much as the driving. I removed the softer rear shock setting and tried to get the car back to neutral, rather than artificially induced understeer in certain situations. The softer springs help with tire wear, but mostly that is from more accurate driving and essentially a shorter lap (without necessarily pushing harder), meaning if I get to the end and the tires are gone, I've been too aggressive and sloppy. Setup for 2-lap Family Cup (heavy fuel) --------------------------------------- When I do FC races I set it to difficulty 10, which basically gives you a bunch of Group C cars (not much of a challenge). Generally you'll pass them all in Hatzenbach-Hocheichen; by Quiddelbacher Hohe you're gone. But, where you decide to pass them makes a difference, and you'll want clean passes in order to make it to T1 at around 38 or 39 seconds. Suspension: springs 10.4; height 62; compression 5; toe 0 Gear ratios: auto 17, 5th 2.003, 6th 1.666, 7th 1.440 Aids: none Diff: 11, 42, 23 Best 2-lap Family Cup: 9'59.355 Fastest Family Cup L1: 5'02.230 (2-lap: 9'59.355) Fastest Family Cup L2: 4'55.854 (2-lap: 9'59.777) Setup for 15-lap Formula race ----------------------------- Again, I got weary of having the car feel ok in the first few laps but then behave unpredictably later in the race as the fuel burned down. I finally decided to go back to a nice comfortable neutral setup and instantly found it felt good on the DFP rig, and easily reset all my personal bests for the 15-lap race. These days I usually can lap all the other cars twice by the end of L14, putting me in the clear for a flying lap at the end. Whatever you use, remember that you will spend most of the race on low fuel, you just have to get through the first 4 laps heavy, so the setup should be geared more for when the car is lighter. Setup: previous setup with 11.0 springs, 0 toe, auto 18 gear ratios, 11 42 23 diff. With a softer setup (10.6) so far I reset my fastest L1 and L15, and came within 2 seconds of the best finish below... Best finish: 1:16'55.246 Best L1: 5'03.000 Best out lap: 4'56.538 Best flying lap: 4'53.781 (L15) Notes on pit strategy for 15-lap -------------------------------- 1 lap of fuel is approx. 15 units; but I've run out before the end of 2 laps after leaving the pit with 30 so I always fill to 31 units for 2 laps. However, if you get 30 by accident, you can save fuel by coasting and short shifting a little (this has worked for me and barely affected the lap time). Tires only last about 2 laps so when you do your first two pit stops you won't need fuel. And, the odd number of laps comes into play. You may want to try an out-in lap with very light fuel (16) and new tires... lap 5 or 7 could be a good time for this. I've even tried pitting early on lap 1 so I can use up my tires when I'm heavy on fuel. I think it probably works better to do the out-in on light fuel though. I usually try to get my best time on the final flying lap 15 but you have to push hard to make this strategy work and avoid running into lapped traffic again here... ============================== Addendum 2 - sub-5'00 examples ============================== Time: 4'56.646 (best time with setup 1.3) T1 0'31.758 T7 3'11.342 T2 0'55.767 T8 3'39.820 T3 1'16.206 T9 3'53.759 T4 1'51.748 T10 4'22.256 T5 2'18.054 T11 4'40.336 T6 2'36.598 L1 4'56.646 Susp. 10.8, 10.9; 64, 64; 7, 7; toe 0 Trans. 18; 2nd 4.518, 3rd 3.287, 4th 2.489 5th 1.960, 6th 1.609, 7th 1.374 Aids off Note: using LFB Time: 4'57.962 (best time with setup 1.1) T1 0'31.598 T7 3'11.343 T2 0'55.547 T8 3'40.777 T3 1'16.218 T9 3'54.733 T4 1'51.673 T10 4'23.469 T5 2'18.496 T11 4'41.586 T6 2'37.084 L1 4'57.962 Susp. 12.9, 12.9; 62, 62; 4, 4; toe 0 Trans. 18; 2nd 4.522, 3rd 3.289, 4th 2.492 Aids off Time: 4'59.275 (time reported in version 1.0) T1 0'31.559 T7 3'12.465 T2 0'55.579 T8 3'42.141 T3 1'16.244 T9 3'56.346 T4 1'51.888 T10 4'24.620 T5 2'18.699 T11 4'42.841 T6 2'37.313 L1 4'59.275 Settings modified from defaults (version 1.0): Suspension Spring rate: 13.2, 13.2 Ride height: 62, 62 Compression: 4, 4 Toe: 0, 0 Transmission: manual, gear ratio level 18 Driving aids: 0, 0, 0 =========================== Addendum 3 - lap milestones =========================== Most people's advice is absolutely correct: that it takes about 100 laps just to consider oneself minimally familiar with the track. But refining from there can take exponentially more practice... It's funny to see that I dropped 30 seconds in the first 300 laps or so after the base time, but then it took over 3000 laps to drop another 10 seconds. Lately, every 100-200 laps I do yields another half-second improvement (not all in the formula car of course). This is all a-spec only, and of course I don't count any pesky late-nite frustrating partial spin-and-bounce-off-Armco-screw-this-hit-restart laps (even if I wipe out at Galgenkopf). Feel free to skip this section if you like, it's mainly for me (again I don't claim to have the fastest times, these are just my personal bests). I think I'm kinda slow for having done so many laps, but this is the main track where I develop my skill and I'm still learning... Lap 85: New record practice - 5'29.297 Lap 100: Family cup time - 5'26.672 Lap 185: Beat Mission 34 - 9'12.394 Lap 262: First a-spec win, Formula GT 15-lap - 5'16.026 Lap 270: Broke 5'10 in practice - 5'09.297 Lap 400: Made 5'00 in practice - 5'00.897 Lap 410: Break 5'00 in practice - 4'59.715 Lap 431: Break 5'10 in Formula GT 15-lap - 5'07.514 Lap 600: Visited Nurburgring in person in August 2007 Lap 660: Made 4'55 in practice - 4'55.491 Lap 800: Made 5'00 in Formula GT 15-lap - 5'00.871 Lap 975: Break 4'55 in practice - 4'54.708 Lap 1000: New record practice - 4'54.582 Lap 1050: New record arcade - 4'50.158 Lap 1190: New record practice - 4'54.308 Lap 1241: New record arcade - 4'46.479 Lap 1363: Break 5'00 in Formula GT 15-lap - 4'59.048 Lap 1471: New record arcade - 4'45.815 Lap 2088: Break 78-minute Formula GT 15-lap - 1:17'57.249 Lap 2141: New record practice - 4'53.738 Lap 2163: New record arcade - 4'44.043 Lap 2217: New record 15-lap Formula GT - 1:17'39.119 Lap 2334: New record practice - 4'53.088 Lap 2406: New record arcade - 4'43.547 Lap 2686: New record arcade - 4'42.543 Lap 2758: New record practice - 4'51.710 Lap 2797: New record 15-lap Formula GT - 1:17'19.539 Lap 2930: New record arcade - 4'41.769 Lap 3002: New fastest flying L15 Formula GT - 4'53.939 Lap 3068: New record practice - 4'50.645 Lap 3090: Break 77-minute Formula GT 15-lap - 1:16'55.246 Lap 3138: New record arcace - 4'40.993 Lap 3190: New record practice - 4'50.298 Lap 3384: New record practice - 4'49.782 Lap 3537: New record practice - 4'49.293 Lap 3660: New record arcade - 4'40.824 Lap 3672: New record practice - 4'48.974 ============================ Addendum 4 - experimentation ============================ Balance and traction are two elements that always lead me to tinker with the car setup in the eternal quest for going faster. Frustration be damned, I always hope that the changes won't require much adjustment to driving style, and will somehow just magically "feel better" which will in turn produce more confident driving and thus faster lap times. Of course, with such a long track it still takes a relatively long time to adjust entirely and actually get a lap with few enough mistakes to break a record. Muscle memory is a funny thing, and often you can play forever on a late night and never even complete a full lap, go to bed frustrated, then wake up the next day and nail it in two or three tries. Suspension settings always seem to be the place I'm fiddling with to try and get better balance and traction. Spring rates are naturally a big area - on bumpy courses like the Nurburgring it can be very difficult to get the right setting. The spectrum is of course: Too hard, lose traction from bouncing; too soft, lose traction from poor contact. Also, the softer the springs, the slower the car reacts and the easier it is for your correction timing to be off. Also, shock absorber (damper) compression frequently comes into play - there are several combinations of springs and dampers that will feel roughly equal in the steering wheel but will have subtle but different effects on handling. The quest for mechanical grip is just endless, but I'm always hoping to refine my driving style so I can tolerate a stiffer suspension and still drive the same lines and ride the kerbs whenever I need to as I would in any other car. The other area I decided to fiddle with is the interaction of front downforce with rear toe. The idea was to gain some handling through lower speed corners while taking away some nervousness through high-speed corners. I think I was also going for a more even tire wear during family cup races, although I'm not sure if it made a big difference. Ultimately I had to abandon this since it seemed to make the car handle unnaturally through medium speed corners (imagine the feeling of simultaneous understeer and oversteer), which make up a large part of the 'ring. Gearing is another area to tinker with, since the wrong gearing can really make a car feel undriveable on a particular track. Usually the adjustment is specific to particular corners where I keep hitting the limiter. However I notice that you can also get different effects with how the individual gear ratios are, or by adjusting the final gear. Before I would leave the final on its default, but now I'm trying leaving the auto 16 default and adjusting the final based on each track. So far it is interesting, capable of quick times with a stable car (along with a diff adjustment). I often tend to play with the limited-slip diff, which I use to adjust the balance without the adverse effects of using the suspension for this (snappy rear, etc). For a fun experiment, try doing a lap with all three set as low as possible (5) and then do another lap with all three at the maximum (60). Essentially, adjust the initial torque so the car turns as you like with normal speed; adjust the deceleration torque for corner approaches, and acceleration for corner exits. Bear in mind that when you slam on the brakes the car is much more eager to turn just because of weight transfer, so you want a certain balance between the initial and deceleration settings, and between deceleration and acceleration settings so that you balance a good turn-in with not sliding off the exit on full power. One last experiment involved the weight balance - it seemed to help my practice setup but I have not got it to work right for actual racing (with fuel and tire wear). You may get more use out of it than I did. ================== Thanks for reading ================== There you have it! I must say it took a huge number of attempts on each day that I actually moved my time. If you've ever seen a Formula 1 practice session you know that the drivers will go off or spin out fairly often while they are trying to push hard and find the absolute limit of the car, track, and their skill on that day. It is amazing how you can do better or worse in completely different sections and end up with an almost identical time. As heartbreaking as it is to have a lapse of concentration that destroys what could have been a huge lead over your previous best time, try to remember that it is difficult to push the limit that you already achieved by pushing your limit. It's never going to be perfect - sometimes when you update your time splits some of them may move forward instead of back. It's nice to know you can go faster in the initial sectors, but what counts is how they add up to the last. Determination is one of the more important qualities of racing so stay loose, and don't let yourself get angry or frustrated, since this will only make you race even worse (unless you want the exercise of racing angry and trying to control it). Relax, have fun, and you will be elated when the moment finally happens. Thanks for reading, I hope this has helped or entertained you in some way! ++++++++++++