Indianapolis 500: The Simulation

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IMPORTANT: If you are having trouble running Indy with later versions of
windows, do a google search on the program "DOSbox" It works wonders.
*********


Version 4
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NOTE: You can distribute this document freely, but it MUST remain
unchanged. If you have anything you want to add, email it to me and I
will put it on. This document is (c) Elliott Mahler (KoD e946) 2002-2005,
and may not be changed by anyone by myself.
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Indianapolis 500: The Simulation is a game for DOS made in 1989 by Papyrus
Design Group, and later re-released on CD. For its time, this game was
revolutionary. It was one of the first to handle the car settings well, and to
have different replay angles, and the like. For being 16 years old, this is a
surprisingly good game.

Contents
1.0 Things to know while reading
2.0 The interface, and how to use it
   2.1 The settings screens
   2.2 How to make your own car
3.0 Prefab cars
4.0 Driving Short Races

   4.1 10-lap Race
   4.2 30-lap Race
5.0 Driving Long races
   5.1 60 lap race
   5.2 The 500
6.0 Answer table
7.0 Driving tips
8.0 The starting grid
9.0 Contact info.
10.0 Version history

*=Coming soon

1.0 Things to know while reading
Many times in this guide, I use abbreviations and lingo, like....
LF=Left Front tire
LR=Left Rear tire
RF=Right Front tire
RR=Right Rear tire
"Loose"= The car overreacts to turns. The back end slides around, pointing the
car to the inside of the track.
"Tight"= The car does not want to turn. you have to wrestle with it, and, in
general, it slows you down out of fear of hitting the wall.


It's important to note that tire pressures rise over the first few laps of
practice runs, due to increasing temperature. The pressures I provide are the
STARTING pressures, not the pressures during race time.

______________________________________________________________________
2.0 The interface, and how to use it

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
2.1 The settings screens.
The various screens for settings can get confusing. What does raising the RF
shock do? What does changing the diameter difference do?
I'm here to help. This section will take a look at each of the settings, from
F1 to F10, and how to use them.

IMPORTANT: Each of the settings found from F3 to F7, while they can be changed
at ANY TIME during practice, they can only be changed while you are STOPPED IN
YOUR PIT during qualifying and race time.

F8, F9, and F10 CANNOT BE CHANGED during qualifying and racing. Ever.

AAAAAAnyways...

The F1 screen is different from the others in the fact that it changes
depending on what mode you're in.

------
F1: Lap Info: Practice mode
------
-Down the center of the screen, there are three times.
-'BEST' displays the best time you've made since you loaded the game.
-'LAST' displays the previous laps' time.
-'CURR' displays your current lap time.
-To the right of BEST and LAST are speeds, which reflect the times next to them.
-To the right of CURR is the amount of laps you've gone since you pit last.

------
F1: Lap Info: Qualify
------
-This is quite similar to the Practice screen, except for two differences.

-First: In the place of BEST is AVG, which represents your average time for the
four qualifying laps.
-Second: LAP represents which qualifying lap you are on.

------
F1: Lap Info: Race
------
-This one is quite different from the other two.

-Down the center, in order:
-The first, LAP, represents what lap of the race you are on.
-LAST represents your previous lap time.
-Below LAST, there is a picture of a car, then a time. The car pictured is the
car you would have to pass next to gain a position. The time next to it is how
many seconds you are behind that car.

-To the right of LAP, there is text that either says LEAD LAP, or (number)
DOWN. This represents what lap you are on in relation to the leader. 1 DOWN
means the leader has completed two more than you, 2 DOWN means the leader has
completed two more laps than you, etc.

-Below this is the average speed you completed your previous lap at.

-Below this is POS (number), which represents what place you are in.

------
F2: Standings
------
-This is, as the name suggests, the standings. This is a list representing what
position each of the cars in the race is in. When you originally press F2, the
screen will show you the car in front of you, your car, and the car behind you.
You are ALWAYS number 17.

-In the center on the left is the position.
-In the center on the right is the team number.
-To the right of the position and team number is a picture of the car.
-To the right of this, is how many seconds behind the leader the pictured car
is. OR, if the car is no longer in the race, the reason is shown here. (I.E.
Crash, Gearbox, Ignition)

-Pressing < will move the view higher up in the standings
-Pressing > will move your view lower in the standings

------
F3: Fuel
------
-This shows how much fuel you have left, among other things.

-GAL LEFT shows you how many gallons of fuel you have left.
-FILL TO shows how much fuel you will load up on the next time you pit.
-MILEAGE and PROJ LAPS kind of work together. MILEAGE shows you how many Miles
Per Gallon you are getting(anything above 1.90 is good, although it will read 0
while in the pits), and PROJ LAPS shows how many more laps you will be able to
race, assuming the fuel mileage stays the same.

------
F4: Wings
------
-This section determines the size of the front and rear wings, and, thus, how
much down force your car gets. In general, moving markers upward will increase
fuel mileage and speed, but will make handling worse.

-This entire screen shows a picture of your car, and there are dashed lines on
either side. Press < to move the markers up, and > to move the markers down.
Press SPACE to switch between the front and back.

-The marker on the left represents your front wing. Moving this UPWARD will
make your car tighter, while moving it DOWNWARD will make your care more loose.
Press
-The marker on the right represents your rear wing. Moving the marker UPWARD
will make your car looser, while moving it DOWNWARD will make your car tighter.

------
F5: Rubber
------
-This section determines how hard or soft your tires are for the selected tire.
You can move from one tire to the next by pressing SPACE. In general, hard
tires last longer, but provide less grip. Soft tires provide great grip, but
don't last very long.

-The center of the screen shows picture of your car. Next to the car, the
currently selected tire and its temperature are shown.

-On the right, the compound of the currently selected tire is shown.
-Press < and > to change the compound.

------
F6: Stagger
------
-The stagger is the difference in size between the right rear and the left rear
tires.

-The center of the screen again shows the rear of your car, and gives an
exaggerated representation of the difference in the tire sizes.

-This is pretty straightforward. The numbers by NOW and SET TO represent the
actual difference.  Pressing < subtracts .1 inch, and pressing > adds .1 inch.
-A negative number means that the left tire is larger than the right, and a
positive number means that the right tire is larger than the left.

-The higher into the positive numbers you set the car, the better it will turn
in the corners. However, good turning comes at the price of bas handling in the
straight areas.

------
F7: Pressures
------
-This determines the PSI inside of the selected tire. You can rotate between
the selected tire by pressing SPACE.

-In the center if this screen is a picture of your car. Next to it is the
currently selected tire, and its current PSI.

-To the right, are the letters I, M, and O in a column, with number next to
each.

-The number next to I represents the temperature on the inside of the surface
of the tire(the side closer to the car)
-The number next to M represents the temperature on the middle of the surface
of the tire.
-The number next to O represents the temperature on the outside of the surface
of the tire(the side further from the car)

-In general increasing the PSI of any given tire will increase its M
temperature, and lower the I and O temperatures. The opposite happens when you
lower the PSI.

------
F8: Shocks
------
-This sets the stiffness of the shock absorber for the selected tire. Again,
you can move from tire to tire by pressing SPACE.

-In the center is the usual picture of the car, and next to it, the currently
selected tire.
-On the right is the setting for the shock absorber for the currently selected
tire.

-Pressing < will make the current shock stiffer, and pressing > will make the
current shock softer.

-In general, stiffer shocks make the car react slower, and softer shocks make
it react slowly. For this reason, shock settings rely on personal preference.

------
F9: Cambers
------
-When down force is applied to the car, the car is pushed down, and the wheels
tip inward a little bit. Because of this, the inside of the wheel receives more
wear than the other parts of the tire. The camber counteracts this, by angling
the wheels so that they will lie flat on the ground when down force is applied.
However, you must also counteract the effect of sliding to the right in the
turns, so it's not that simple.

-On the screen, you are shown the usual picture of the car, the currently
selected tire, and a line representing the current camber setting. As usual,
you can press SPACE to move from tire to tire.

-On the right is the exact same temperature screen seen in F7. That's right,
they're the same temperatures for the respective tires.

-Pressing < will tilt the tire to YOUR right, while pressing > will tilt the
tire to your left.

-In general, tilting a tire towards the inside of the car makes the I
temperature increase, and the O temperature decrease. The same happens in
opposite. The M temperature is not affected by this setting

------
F10: Gears
------
-This area is pretty straightforward. You are shown the gear sizes for each of
your 4 gears. Pressing > will increase them, and pressing < will decrease them.
You do not need to switch between anything, because the gears change together
when you press < or >.

-In general, higher gear settings will make the car accelerate faster, but the
RPMS will be higher, gas mileage will be lower, and, after a point, your max
speed is limited. Lower gear ratios mean better gas mileage, less RPMs, higher
max speeds, but lower acceleration.

------
Roll Bars
------
-The roll bars are not found in any sort of screen. These are worked into the
dashboard of the car you are driving.

-The roll bars are always on the lower left of the dash board. The roll bars
work like shocks, only you can change them during a race.

-The right roll bar can be pushed forward by pressing ], and can be pushed
backwards by pressing [. In general, pushing this FORWARD makes the car more
loose, and pulling it BACK will make the car tighter.

-The left roll bar can be pushed forward by pressing =, and can be pulled
backwards by pressing -(the dash key). Pushing this FORWARD makes the car
tighter, and pulling it BACK makes the car more loose.

-This, unlike the other settings, can be changed at any time during a race.

------
Turbo
------
-This setting is also found on the dashboard of the car, usually on the
left-hand side. This is also straightforward. Pressing the keys 1 through 9
will set the turbo to whichever key you choose.

-The turbo determines how much gas is used in the gas and air mix that is used
in the engine. The higher the setting, the more gas you use, and the more speed
you get. However, the higher you set it, the worse your gas mileage is, and the
hotter your engine runs.

------
Whew. That was a lot of stuff. Hopefully you understand more of how the
interface works. Almost every one of these settings affects other settings
though, so be careful.


+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
2.2 How to make your own car
Now that you have a better idea of what each setting does, you can more easily
design your own cars.

Just go through each step in order. Once you're done, go through everything
again to make sure everything's how you like it.



Beforehand, think about your skill level, and what you want the car for.

If you're new to the game, choose the March/Cosworth. This car has great
handling, although it's a bit slow. It can be a great car, however, if tuned
right.

If you're planning on doing short races, pick the Lola/Buick. This car, while
it also handles great, has durability worth crap, so it's not good for longer
races unless you plan on going slowly.

If you're a good player, and are planning on going for the top, then the
Penske/Chevrolet is for you. Although it's great for going fast, it has bad
handling at high speeds, so it's not for newer players.

Generally, if the car your making is for qualifying, you'll want the yellow car.
----------

1. Leave the turbo at 7. Why? Later on, in the race, you'll want to be able to
have relatively high fuel mileage, yet still have the option to speed up a
little if you need to.
----------

2. Run a few laps around the track under practice and get a feel for the car.
Find out what bothers you about the car. This is what you'll aim at.
----------

3. Set the tire compounds. This is an important step, as it plays a major part
in how your car handles in corners.

Generally, you'll want the RF and RR tires to be soft, and the LF and LR tires
to be medium. However, if you are doing qualifying, it'd be a good idea to set
everything to soft.
----------

4. Mess around with the wings, and set them so that you're comfortable driving
the car, and still have the speed that you want.
----------

5. Now, play with the gears. You'll want to take a look at your gas mileage and
at your lap times during this to find the right balance between mileage and
speed.

If you set the gear ratio for too high for too long, the engine might overheat
and fail, knocking you out of the race, so watch it.
----------

6. Work with the cambers and tire pressures. This is an EXTREMELY important
step. It increases your speed, grip, AND tire durability.

You want the temperatures on all three areas of the tire to be equal. I suggest
doing cambers first, to make the I and O temperatures equal, then, once those
two are equal, use the pressures to make the middle of the tire match the
outside tires. Do this for each tire.

Please note that, although each change DOES have an affect, it may take a lap
or two for it to become noticeable.

This is the longest step, so don't worry if it takes you a while. it's worth it.
----------

7. The shocks are your next goal. These will greatly affect the way your tires
wear and the way you turn.

Making the front shocks stiffer than the rear ones will make your car tighter,
while making the front shocks softer than the rear will make it looser.

Furthermore if the shocks of any given tire are stiffer than the others, that
tire will have more grip, and more wear. For this reason, set the left shocks
stiffer than the right ones.

Setting the shocks stiffer all around will make the car respond quicker, but
it'll also make it slide around more.
----------

8. Set the stagger. You'll probably want this to be positive. While this isn't
a big change as shocks, rubber, or wings, it still gives you some fine-tuning
in your turning. As said in the previous section, increasing the difference
makes you turn better, but makes handling worse in the straight areas.
----------

9. Check out the tire and engine durability to make sure they won't blow up
after 5 laps. Also, just make a note of how long your car lasts on fuel without
pitting. Anything above 30 laps is good.
----------

10. Do it all over. Its important to remember that all of these settings affect
the way other settings affect your car. Therefore, it's important to go though
this process more than once on your car(start the process with the settings you
ended up with this time). This way, you can be sure that any weird handling
issues are ironed out.
----------

11. After you're sure the car is to your liking, get a feel of how the roll
bars affect your car. You don't need to change them now, but make sure you know
what they do. During long races especially, you'll be changing these quite
often.
----------

12. Race!

______________________________________________________________________
3.0 THE SETTINGS
This area contains configuration settings that will get you by. I have
tested them, and they all work, but may not be suitable to all people.

You'll have to tune the shocks and roll bars to your own liking.

Fuel and tire laps are how many laps your car will go without changing fuel and
tires, respectively. A pit window is 3 or 4 laps where you would most likely
want to pit.



Car 1
Settings:
CAR: Penske/Chevy
FUEL: 5 gallons
WING: Front: 3 from top. Rear: 3(or 2 for VERY good drivers) from top
RUBBER: RF: soft, RR: soft, LR: soft, LF: soft
STAGGER: + 1.00 inch
PRESSURES: RF: 23, RR: 26, LR: 26, LF: 28
CAMBERS: RF: -.50, RR: 0, LR: +1.75, LF: +.50
GEARS (4th gear): 3.90
TURBO: 9

Stats:
FUEL LAPS: just under 4
TIRE LAPS: 8-10
PIT WINDOW: --
ENGINE DURABILITY: Unknown
AVG. SPEED: 230 MPH
COMMENTS: Only use this one for qualifying. Experts only. This car has pretty
random handling. The fuel runs about 3 seconds before you finish the 4th
qualifying lap.



Car 2
Settings:
CAR: Penske/Chevy
FUEL: 40 gallons
WING: Front: 4 from top REAR: 3 from top
RUBBER: RF: medium, RR: medium, LR: soft, LF: soft
STAGGER: + 1.00 inch
PRESSURES: RF: 25, RR: 25, LR: 24, LF: 27
CAMBERS: RF: -.50, RR: +.25, LR: +1.50, LF: +1.00
GEARS (4th): 3.90
TURBO: 9

Stats:
FUEL LAPS: 32
TIRE LAPS: 52-56
PIT WINDOW: 30-32
ENGINE DURABILITY: entire race
AVG. SPEED: 218 MPH
COMMENTS: Loose after pit stops, tight after yellow flags. Change the roll bars
accordingly.



Car 3
Settings:
CAR: Lola/Buick
FUEL: 40 gallons
WING: Front: 6 from bottom, Rear: 7 from bottom
RUBBER: RF: medium, RR: medium, LR: soft, LF: soft
STAGGER: +.60
PRESSURES: RF: 25, RR: 23, LR: 23, LF: 27
CAMBERS: RF: -.50 RR: +.50 LR: +1.75 LF: +1
GEARS (4th): 3.30
TURBO: 6-8

Stats:
FUEL LAPS: 33-35
TIRE LAPS: 60-70
PIT WINDOW: 32-35
ENGINE DURABILITY: entire race, if turbo is kept below 8
AVG. SPEED: 209 MPH
COMMENTS: It may not seem good at first, but it has GREAT handling. I recommend
this to everyone, because it is a good car to practice using the roll bars.
This car is designed for 30-200 lap races.



Car 4
Settings:
CAR: March/Cosworth
FUEL: 40 gallons
WING: Front: 4 from bottom, Rear: 5 from bottom
RUBBER: RF: Medium, RR: Medium, LR: Soft, LF: Soft
STAGGER: +.10
PESSURES: RF: 24, RR: 22, LR: 23, LF: 26
CAMBERS: RF: -.25, RR: +1.00, LR: +1.75, LF: +.75
GEARS (4th): 4.60
TURBO: 7

Stats:
FUEL LAPS: 33
TIRE LAPS: over 40
PIT WINDOW: 28-32
ENGINE DURABILITY: Entire race, if boost is kept below 7
AVG.SPEED: 210 MPH
COMMENTS: Handles GREAT.


Sent in by (email) [email protected]

Car 1
Settings:
CAR: March/Cosworth
FUEL: 40 gallons
WING: Front: 3 from top. Rear: 2 from top
RUBBER: RF: hard, RR: medium, LR: soft, LF: soft
STAGGER: +.30
PRESSURES: RF: 23, RR: 26, LR:24, LF: 25
CAMBERS: RF: -.75, RR: +.25, LR: +1,25, LF: +.75
GEARS (4th gear): 4.10
TURBO: 8-9

Stats:
FUEL LAPS: 32-34
TIRE LAPS: over 40
PIT WINDOW: 31-33
ENGINE DURABILITY: entire race, if boost is set to 8 or
less
AVG. SPEED: 224 MPH

Car 2
Settings:
CAR: Lola/Buick
Fuel: 10 gallons
WING: Front: minimum. Rear: minimum
RUBBER: RF: soft, RR: soft, LR: soft, LF: soft
STAGGER: +.60
PRESSURES: RF: 25, RR: 28, LR:26, LF: 27
CAMBERS: RF: -.50, RR: +.25, LR: +1,00, LF: +.50
GEARS (4th gear): 3.20
TURBO: 9

Stats:
FUEL LAPS: 7
TIRE LAPS: unknown
ENGINE DURABILITY: unknown
AVG. SPEED: 235 MPH (my lap record was over 237MPH but I
don't remember the exact speed or time)
COMMENTS: Qualifying only.

______________________________________________________________________
4.0 Short races
If you're new, stick to the short races. They'll be more fun for you.


4.1 The 10-lap race
This is a really fun type of race. Because you cannot receive damage, and you
can crash anyone without a yellow flag being thrown, you can do some pretty
interesting things.

For example, qualify somewhere in the teens, then start a 10-lap race.
IMMEDIATELY, crash the cars next to you. Most of the time, a huge pileup will
occur. If you do it right, you can spin a couple times, then be able to speed
up again and drive though the pileup as it's happening, which is really fun.

Another fun thing to do is to try to take out every car in the race before the
10 laps are up. There are many things you can do. Give your car 15 gallons of
fuel for this one.


4.2 The 30-lap race
This kind of race is a good introduction into long races. You will be
nearly out of fuel by the end, so you learn to conserve, and you cannot
go as fast as you can for as long as you can. This is what makes it fun
if you are used to 10-lap races. Set your car up so that it gets about

35 laps on boost 9.

______________________________________________________________________
5.0 Long races
These are fun, but only for the more advanced. They require a LOT of
patience, and a LOT of strategy (I have never gotten past lap 110 in
the 200-lap race).
IMPORTANT: NEVER BLOCK THE LEADERS IF THEY TRY TO LAP YOU!!! THAT IS A
GUARANTEED WAY TO CRASH!!!

5.1 The 60-lap race
This one is the most fun for me. It provides a challenge, yet isn't too
long. It's a MUST that you finish the race on only one pit stop. Try to
conserve before your pit stop, then pit around lap 35. Then let loose
and do everything you can to make the car go faster. Remember, there is
only ONE lap in the entire race that is important to lead on... the
last! So don't risk crashing, and hang back. Just try to be at worst 10
seconds behind the leader. If you get more than that, forget
conservation and GO!!! If you get lapped and you're going for the win,
game's over.

5.2 The Big 500!
This one will take more patience than most people have to spare. I suggest
hanging back, and not even trying for the win.


______________________________________________________________________
6.0 Answer list
Before you can enter the main menu and begin racing, you must answer an
incredibly hard question about the past winners of the race. Because
this is so hard, I have decided to include a table of the cars, the
driver names, and the year of the race. Unfortunately, because I can't really
include pictures, you must guess at which I am talking about, but I will try to
make it clearer. Here are all the answers in the book, in this order: Year,
Driver's last name, AVG speed, Time, Team number, Sponsor, Description

1911, Harroun, 74.59, 6:42:08, 32, None, Looks like a metal trash bin
with white wheels.
1913, Goux, 75.93, 6:35:05, 16, None, One person behind the huge
steering wheel, other standing behind the car next to him.
1915, DePalma, 89.84, 5:33:55, None, None, Looks like a boat with
wheels.
1919, Wilcox, 88.05, 5:40:42, None, None, Car is sitting in front of a
brick wall with windows.
1921, Milton, 89.62, 5:34:44, None, None, Looks like a cigar.
1923, Milton, 90.95, 5:29:50, None, None, Scaffolding in background,
nothing else.
1925, DePaolo, 101.13, 4:56:39, 12, None, one person in a white suit
standing behind the car right by the 12, all white.
1927, Souders, 97.545, 5:07:33, 32, None, Four people in white suits
clearly visible behind car.
1929, Keech, 97.585, 5:07:25, None, Simplex(hard to see), A tree off in
the distance.
1931, Schneider, 96.629, 5:10:25, 23, (in a black circle) Seal Fast,
"winner" written directly below the driver, looks like car is in an
open field.
1933, Meyer, 104.162, 4:48:00, 36, None, Two people in the car, car is
in the same field as the one listed above.
1935, Petillo, 106.240, 4:42:22, 5, None, Flames painted on coming out
of a heart-shaped grill in front.
1937, Shaw, 113.580, 4:24:07, 6, None, Sitting on the track (bricks).
1939, Shaw, 15.035, 4:20:47, 2, None, grandstand in background, the
stands are not raised at all.
1946, Robson, 114.820, 4:21:16, 16, None, Car is black.
1948, Rose, 119.814, 4:10:23, 3, None, number is in the far front, car
is very shiny.
1950, Parsons, 124.002, (2 or 3):46:55, None, None, Nothing outstanding
in this picture. Just hope this guy doesn't show up in the questions.
1952, Ruttman, 128.992, 3:52:41, 98, None, Exhaust pipe leading from
the front of the car, near the top, to the rear of the car behind the
wheel.
1954, Vukovich, 130.840, 3:49:17, 14, None, Car is a perfect tube.
1956, Flaherty, 128.490, 3:53:28, 8, None, Black stripe down the lower
middle, Writing below left rear tire.
1958, Bryan, 133.791, 3:44:13, None, None, White.
1960, Rathmann, 138.767, 3:36:11, 4, None, Looks silver in photo.
1964, Foyt, 147.350, 3:23:35, None, None, Nose bends downwards.
1966, Hill, 144.317, 3:27:52, 24, None, two clearly visible exhaust
pipes sticking out back.
1968, Unser, 152.882, 3:16:13, 3, None, Front wheels unusually far
back, exposing a long nose.
1970, Unser, 155.749, 3:12:37, 2, None, Last of the 'tube' cars, number
2 is in a square with lightning coming from it on front.
1972, Donohue, 162.962, 3:04:05, 66, None, First of the 'modern'
looking cars, still has an old look to it. No central hump.
1974, Rutherford, 158.589, 3:09:10, 3, None, You can tell that the car
is yellow. First modern car with a central 'hump' in the car.
1976, Rutherord, 148.725, 1:42:52(this number should be at least an
hour and a half higher, so I don't know), 2, cant read it, the side
facing you is heavily shadowed.
1978, Unser, 161.363, 3:05:54, 2, cant read it, white stripe running
along the side of the central hump
1980, Rutherford, 142.862, 3:29:59.56, 4, Pennzoil, rear wing supported
on sides, not in middle
1982, Johncock, 162.029, 3:05:09.14, 20, STP, STP can be seen on the
front just above the front wings.
1984, Mears, 163.612, 3:03:21.660, 6, Pennzoil, you can tell that the
car is yellow
1986, Rahal, 170.722, 2:55:43:480, 3, Budweiser, not much outstanding
here
1988, Mears, 144.809, 3:27:10:204, 5, Pennzoil, black sreipes on all
the edges
1989, Fittipaldi, 167.581, 2:59:10.049, 20, Marlboro, c'mon... it's a
Penske car!


______________________________________________________________________
7.0 Driving Tips

If you're planning on doing long races, it is to your advantage to practice
pitting. One good strategy is to floor it, then slam on the brakes once you get
to a certain spot, and slide into your pit. This is tough to get the hang of,
though, which is why I suggest that you practice.

For longer races, set your turbo lower than 9. This will give you room to speed
up if you need to, yet keep your fuel mileage high.

If you manage to get in first place, set your boost to 9. Once you begin
lapping the slow cars, set it back down to 8 or 7. The computer drivers will
slow down a little in order to pass the lapped cars, so they still won't be
able to keep up with you.

If you are not good at pitting, then pit on lap 15 or so. Your schedule
will be different from all the other cars, and you will be able to pit
freely.

A joystick makes this game considerably easier in the same way that eyesight
makes flying an airplane easier. (In other words, it's extremely hard without
one)

Every time you play, before you qualify, run a 10-lap race from the
back of the field. This will help you race in heavy traffic if you need
to, as you will be forced to pass all the slower cars.

For shorter races, if you are using the red car, test to see what the
highest gear ratio is that will get you past 10 laps without blowing
the engine.

The blue car is better than it may seem. I've won races with it!

THE COMPUTER IS OUT TO GET YOU!!! No joke. Sometimes, cars will pull out in
front of you etc. The bright red car has slammed into me deliberately twice in
my experience with this game, and has pulled in front of me several other times.

When racing long races, just accept being lapped. Holding the leaders back is
GUARANTEED to get you crashed.

If you want to change one of your settings during a pit, press P just
after you stop. You can make your changes without taking up any time!

If you see a large block of slow cars up ahead, and you're in your pit
window, then pit! You will kill two birds with one stone, both pitting and not
having to deal with the large pack.


______________________________________________________________________
8.0 The Starting grid
The cars in this game are actually based on the starting grid from the 1989
Indy 500. When I get around to it, I'll match up the actual drivers with the
ones in the game.


______________________________________________________________________
9.0 Contact info.
If you wish to reach me for any reason, E-mail me at
[email protected], and have the subject be FAQ or INDY or something
like that to let me know that you are telling me about this guide. I'll try to
answer any questions as best as I can.


______________________________________________________________________
10.0 Version history

April 17, 2005 Version 4
Damn it's been a long time since I updated this. I finally found a program
(DOSbox. Google it.) that runs Indy, so I can finally keep updating.
I rewrote nearly EVERYTHING in this update, and added a section on the
interface of the game. Enjoy.

August 2, 2003 Version 3.5
Went through and cleared up some things, fixed a lot of errors, and
added two car setups.
Sorry for the lack of updates, but my new computer doesn't have the
right plug for my joystick, and it has trouble running Indy. So until I
find a solution, you won't be seeing many updates.

February 19, 2003 Version 3.4
I finished the answer list (finally) and added the 500 race tips.

January 1, 2003 Version 3.3
I mostly revised and made things clearer, but added the 60-lap race
tips and cancelled the crash paths.

July 19, 2002 Version 3.2
Revised a little, added a few comments to the cars, added more answers
to the questions.

June 26, 2002 Version 3.1
Added to the Driving Tips section, added to the answer table, and added
the 30-lap race tips.

May 8, 2002 Version 3.0
Mostly revised, added the answer list section and the 10-lap race
section. Added the version history.

April 13, 2002 Version 2.0
Added the How to Make a Car section, revised a little bit.

February 2002 Version 1
Created the document with Driving tips, Prefab cars.