ASDFJKLASDFJKLASDFJKLASDFJKLASDFJKLASDFJKLASDFJKLASDFJKLASDFJKLASDDFJKASDFJKLASJ 80 characters long. I actually counted. Monster Hunter 3G/3 Ultimate for the 3DS and Wii U ================================================== A Comprehensive Analysis of the DUAL SWORDS/BLADES ================================================== By: aquashiram14 Contact: aquashiram14 (at) gmail (dot) com First things first. I am a girl. I am a girl who plays Monster Hunter. :D ------------------------ |**********************| |*DUAL SWORDS: A GUIDE*| |**********************| ------------------------ Introduction The game actually officially calls them Dual Blades, by the way. Dual Swords have a pretty smooth learning curve so they're an excellent weapon for beginners (I would still recommend Sword and Shield as the top choice). Their controls are easier and most of their function is pretty intuitive and doesn't require much overthinking. This guide also has some general tips for beginners. Veteran hunters will probably find this guide a lot less useful but beginning hunters should get a lot out of this. So...what gives me the qualifications? Not much, actually. This is why this guide is geared mainly for beginners. I played the demo a ton with Dual Swords because they looked cool, and I've been hooked on them ever since. Within the game I have entirely used Dual Swords...I plan on branching out eventually, but at this point in the game my money would be sucked out of me if I tried to upgrade any other weapons I wanted to try. But considering that I'm currently a 100% Dual Swords user, I do know how to use them. For those wondering how experienced I am...I'm not very. I will be honest, I haven't hit high rank yet. So why am I writing this guide? Well, disclaimer notice: Don't take my guide as a god. What I say is my opinion. The controls are accurate and the basic mechancics are accurate though--I made sure they were. And, hey, would you rather me be honest about my in-experience or would you rather me lie and talk about how awesome and veteran-ish I am with this game? What I do have to offer, however, is that I started this game as an absolute, rock-bottom beginner. What I have are the feelings and thoughts of a beginner. Veteran hunters are not beginners in this game. As a beginner, I am able to relate to others struggling, and I will offer my help to the best of my ability. For your guide happiness, ITEMS are in ALL CAPS. Along with other important TERMS and ARMORS and WEAPONS. That way, you won't have to spend a while searching for them. Oh, and the best tip for beginners, outside of PRACTICING? Don't overthink it. It's weapons. It's armors. Weapons do damage, armors are for defense. Potions heal you. Traps trap the monster. Tranq bombs will make monsters go into zzzzz-land. Use your prior knowledge. It might look complicated, and it certainly can get that way, but only if you let it do that to you. -------------- Legal Infos -------------- This guide is my own original product. Dual Swords lists come from various databases on various phone apps, Ping's Monster Hunter 3 Ultimate Dex, Monster Hunter Wikia, and various .jpgs of upgrade trees. All official names are copyrighted by Capcom. Please do not redistribute or post this guide elsewhere without explicit permission from me (I check my email frequently, don't worry). If you have any questions or criticisms or general questions about the game, email me, I might be able to answer. Over time, I will add an FAQs section. This is version 0.6. Please just Ctrl+F the section names. One day, I will add tags. Version History Version 0.6: Started May 20th, 2013, took about a week. Has all basic information and is lacking only actual Dual Sword listings Very skeletal but isn't devoid of any helpfulness First version that was released. Version 1.00: Been playing game more and adding/subtracting a ton. Some sections are incredibly shallow, so I made them more thorough. Grammar and typo fixes All Dual Swords listed, all the detailed information coming soon Added in three crucial sections (how on earth could I have forgotten) Planning on offering more advanced advice soon Also added things like nice pretty boxes to prevent the text-wall-syndrome. Re-formatted, it's allowed to be 80 characters wide :D Credits and Thank-yous Thanks to me, first, because I'm selfish and I wrote this guide :D Thanks to my friends IRL who critiqued the shit out of this guide when it was first released (it was sooo bad) and hunted with me while I was still getting the hang of the controls. Oh and they also contributed a lot to the Recommended Armor/Weapons sections. Thanks to you for reading :D Thanks to Capcom for making such a great game! ==================== Table of Contents ==================== 1. Introduction a. Legal Information b. Credits and Thank-yous 2. Table of Contents 3. Basic Overview a. In-depth Analysis 4. Preparations 5. Controls a. The Superman Dive 6. Raw Power vs. Elemental Power 7. Recommended Armor Sets 8. Recommended Weapons 9. Demon/Archdemon Mode 10. Tactics 11. Underwater Combat 12. All Dual Swords =============== Basic Overview =============== DUAL SWORDS (or Dual Blades) will be referred to in short hand as DS. Do not confuse with Nintendo DS. Dual Swords are what it says: Two swords, one in each hand, that you use to attack monsters. They're about as freaking cool as they sound. Unlike bows, bowguns, and gunlances, you have to be extremely up close and personal with the monster ("Say ahhh!") since these aren't long, huge dual swords, these are small and light ones. A lot of the controversy over Dual Swords is that they make the game "easier". Dual Swords have easy controls and no truly complex attacks. Learning when and where and how to use a Charge Attack with a Great Sword is notably harder than learning how to go into Demon and Archdemon mode with Dual Swords. So if you're very new to this game, Dual Swords are highly recommended for you. Your first weapon choice I would say should be Sword and Shield, but for you offensive speedsters, the Dual Swords should tickle your fancy. If you're unsure of what to pick, download the demo, go hunt a Lagombi, and try out each weapon until you find what suits you best (be sure to look up the controls for them, of course). Don't fret if you faint, this is a demo :) Here's what this guide will do. This guide will explore pretty much every aspect of Dual Swords that I could think of (I will refer to them as "DSes" throughout the walkthrough). It will also provide general help for beginners as they begin to tackle their first big monsters. At the end, I even provide you people with a comprehensive list of every Dual Sword you can possibly forge, along with any potential comments I might have. This guide is NOT a hold-your-hand walkthrough of how to tackle every possible monster with Dual Swords. Over time, you'll find your own attack style. ----------------- In-depth Analysis ----------------- DSes are swift and fast. They're the speedsters of the weapon group. It's easy to chain combos together almost infinitely (but it's also impractical because monsters don't just sit there). They have their own special mode, too, called DEMON MODE, which greatly increases damage output at cost of stamina (unless you have Dash Juice). If you inflict enough damage to fill up a red bar under your stamina bar, you'll enter ARCHDEMON Mode, which is Demon Mode without any stamina depletion! But more on that later. Dual Swords also have pretty much the highest damage-per-second (DPS). ****************************** * SUMMARY * * 1. Fast, light, and mobile * * 2. Demon/Archdemon mode * * 3. Can easily break out of * * a combo by rolling * * 4. Easy to chain attacks * ****************************** But like all weapons, DSes have their drawbacks. The biggest drawback is that you cannot BLOCK ATTACKS. Dual Swords DO NOT HAVE SHIELDS. I repeat: Dual Swords have no shields. ALWAYS keep that in mind. Developing your evasion skills will be of utmost importance if you choose to invest time into this weapon class! Learn to love the B button. Another problem with DSes (especially if the monster is bigger than Moga Village itself) is their SMALL HIT RANGE. Great Swords can hammer tails and heads, hammers can hammer heads, and I've used Long Swords and easily broken heads and ears, but Dual Swords cannot reach such parts easily. This can be frustrating if the one part of a monster you need is the tail, but the tail is too high off the ground for you to slice off, essentially barring you from certain equipment (or at the very least, making it tons harder to get). DSes also rely more on elemental affinity than other weapons. Because of their lower raw power when compared to a weapon like a Great Sword (at max power, around the high 300s, they still have lower raw power than a low rank Great Sword), honing on on a monster's elemental weakness is EXTREMELY important and can mean the difference between life and death. Finally, DSes don't last long. You have to sharpen them. And a lot. Because they attack so fast, they can make up for their low base power, but that comes at the cost of swift sharpness decrease. In Low Rank, getting a full set of WROGGI ARMOR is highly recommended. Not only does it give a useful POISON IMMUNITY, it also has the skill RAZOR SHARP, which slows the rate your weapons dull by half. A godsend. (I will go more into armor in a later section) ********************************* * SUMMARY * * 1. Cannot block, must evade * * 2. Cannot roll in the middle * * of an attack, must wait * * until that one attack is * * done * * 3. Lower raw power * * 4. Small hit range * * 5. Dull very quickly * ********************************* Some of the best ways to compensate are the following: 1. Learn how to evade. Learn a monster's attack patterns. 2. Bring DASH JUICE for Demon Mode. And for everything. 3. Forge more than one Dual Sword. This applies to any weapon class you want to specialize/generalize in. Monsters have elemental weaknesses just waiting to be abused, and some monsters are even particularly weak to status effects! (Like Duramboros and poison) 4. Know where monsters are most vulnerable. Barroth's arms are its weak points. I suggest you use Monster Hunter Wiki to research. 5. ALWAYS have 20 WHETSTONES. No matter what. ALWAYS. I don't even care. Just bring them with you. I will probably repeat these throughout the guide. Because they're important! ================ Preparations ================ Okay, you're all set to go! You've got your 20 Whetstones, a few Dash Juices, and all your extra essentials to hunt a boss class monster! BUT WAIT. Is your BAG ready? For beginners that are looking, here is what I normally take. Be aware that low rank quests start you out at base camp and the Supply Box will have many useful items specific to your quest--a quest involving killing bugs will provide you with free POISON SMOKE BOMBS, for example, so you can kill them but leave their bodies intact for carving. GET INTO THE HABIT OF PREPARING ON YOUR OWN. Once you've completed Low Rank, the training wheels are off, and the Supply Box will have nothing for you. *************************************** * THE BEGINNER'S PERFECT BAG OF ITEMS * (Mainly geared for fighting boss-class * Mega Potion/Potion x10 * monsters) * Iron Pickaxe/Mega Pickaxe x5 * * Bug Net/Mega Bug Net x 5 * * Paintball x 10+ (bring at least 10) * * Well-done Steak x5 (BBQ raw meat) * * Whetstone x20 * * Pitfall Trap x1 * * Shock Trap x1 * * Tranq Bomb x8 * * Dung Bomb x10 * *************************************** Brief description of some of the items Paintball: It will track the monster's locations regardless of if you have a map or not. Wears off after 10 minutes or so, so be sure to paint the monster more than once if the fight's long enough. Well-done Steak: Boosts your Stamina. Tranq Bomb: Toss 2 at a monster caught in a trap. Monster will say goodnight and you'll have successfully captured it! Dung Bomb: If another monster shows up that you weren't specifically told to hunt, toss one at it. It stinks, and the monster will leave the area because it's ashamed to show its stinky face :D Because it now stinks. **If a monster pins you down, detonate a poo bomb in its face. Even monsters don't appreciate having toilet waste stuffed in their mouth. If you're fighting with friends, though, let it have its way with you--they can get in some free hits. If you are questing in Sandy Plains (Day) or Volcano, bring 5 COOL JUICE. If you are questing in Sandy Plains (night) or Tundra, bring 5 HEAT JUICE. DASH JUICE, as said earlier, will make your life easier. TRAPS are optional but if the quest goes awry or you wasted that EZ Trap for that capture quest, having an extra is a very good idea. Even if you're on a hunting quest, PICKAXES and BUG NETS can allow you to obtain bugs and things as you head off to where the monster's chilling. Later on, consider bringing other items such as POTIONS and HONEY, so that you can COMBINE them to create MEGA POTIONS. This can save you in a pinch if you run out of the stock of Mega Potions you already brought. If you use this strategy, it's highly recommended you purchase and bring COMBO BOOKS, which will help your combos succeed. Remember to bring ANTIDOTES if your monster can poison (ex. Gigginox), ENERGY DRINKS if your monster can put you to sleep (ex. Great Baggi), NULBERRIES if your monster can cause any sort of Blight (ex. Royal Ludroth and Waterblight), etc. (Pretty much all monsters later on can cause Blights lol) OVERPREPARATION = SUCCESS. And please, never forget the almight POO BOMB. ********************************** * FUN TIPS! * * 1. A free DLC gives you 5,000 * * resource points! Get them! * * Use them to farm Nulberries* * which you can SELL! * * 2. If you have veteran friends,* * farm Lagombis to get the * * Snow Slicers. * ********************************** ********************************** * HIGHLY RECOMMENDED * * 1. Use the Monster Hunter Wiki * * to do your research. IT WILL* * HELP YOU. * * 2. Once the monster has spotted* * you, its icon will appear * * on the touch screen. Tap it * * and the camera will auto- * * lock onto the monster if you* * press L. Indispensible! * ********************************** All right. You're bored of this text. Time to learn how to use dem weapons! ======================== Dual Swords: Controls ======================== You need only the following buttons: X, A, Y, B, and the R shoulder. For attacking and combat, anyways. X: Unsheathe if your weapon is sheathed. X: If you're unsheathing, you'll do a sort of lunge attack. Otherwise, it's a basic fancy shmancy short attack. Press X twice: Combo attack that is longer and flourishes more Press A: Butterfly-ish swipe X+A: Lunge attack if weapon is already unsheathed X and then A: Combo Attack involving a spin. Long attack, be careful when using. R shoulder: Go into Demon Mode (you'll lift the swords above your head, cross them, and they'll have a red haze around them) Y: Sheathe your weapon. Press Y while in Demon Mode to exit Demon mode. Cannot sheathe your weapon to exit Archdemon mode. B: Roll (weapon sheathed or unsheathed) Those are your most basic controls for success. ----------------- The Superman Dive ----------------- Also called the Safety Dive and the Panic Dive, it involves diving/belly flopping onto the ground. Why is it such a lifesaver? The brief moment you're in the air, you're invincible. That's the one invincibility frame you might need to dodge, say, a Savage Deviljho's dragon-breath. The invincibility frame granted by ROLLING is far shorter and requires pretty insanely accurate timing. This makes the Dive far more reliable to save your hide in a pinch. First off, you have to have sheathed your weapon. You can't go Superman Diving if your weapon's out. Sheathe it! If you are in a pinch and there's no time to sheathe your weapon, then I recommend you not even bother attempting to sheathe, sprint, and dive. Just roll ASAP! Next, the monster must have SPOTTED YOU. The easiest way to test is to poke its icon in the touch screen and press L. If the camera auto-locks, it's spotted you. Also if you've just encountered it and an exclamantion mark (!) has appeared above its head, it for sure has noticed you. Now, dash! Dash as fast as you can! Run away! To do so, move around using the left circle pad (3DS's only have one so you know which one I'm talking about, 3DS players) while pressing R. You should be sprinting and your stamina bar, unless you ingested Dash Juice, should be depleting. Oh, and you'll probably look pretty silly running like that. Now, press B. It's hard to fit all your fingers and manage it all at once, but just press it! You'll jump into the air and land on the ground on your tummy. Good job, you made yourself temporarily invincible and have successfully performed the Superman Dive! Use it. Love it. ***************************** * SUMMARY BOX * * 1. Monster should have * * spotted you. * * 2. RUN by moving while * * pressing R. * * 3. Press B (while still * * running. * ***************************** ================================= Elemental Damage vs. Raw Damage ================================= Dual Swords are the undisputed king of Damage-Per-Second, or DPS for short. They are also the undisputed losers of the greatest single-hit power contest (there's no acronym for that as far as I'm aware), so having such high DPS helps compensate for this. There's one other mechanic that helps save the Dual Swords from being the weakest weapon class available, and that's elemental affinity and power. Elemental affinity is one of the more intricate aspects of Monster Hunter, and isn't often easily understood. Raw damage is a bit more intuitive for people to get, so I'll go over that first, then I'll talk about elemental affinity and power, and how the two are related, particularly when talking about Dual Swords. Here we go. ------------ Raw Damage ------------ Raw Damage is a weapon's BASE POWER negating all other skills and elemental affinity. You can view it by going to your ITEM BOX and viewing your equipment, or by looking at your forgeable/upgradeable weapons when talking to the SMITHY. If you wish to see the power of your equipped weapon, press the START button and go to STATUS to view your general equipment summaries. You'll see a NUMBER and a COLOR BAR. Matched Slicers has the number of 98 and has a red and orange and yellow bar. Ludroth Pair has the number 168 and has a red, orange, yellow, and a teensy bit of green in its bar. As you've probably guessed, the longer the bar, the better its SHARPNESS. Ludroth Pair can reach green sharpness, while Matched Slicers can only reach yellow sharpness. Sharpness is very important, it acts as the damage multiplier of your base power, which is indicated by the number. Sharpness is also important because some monsters have very hard skin/scales/fur/whatever. For example, green sharpness weapons bounce off a low rank Barroth's head. Only blue sharpness or impact weapons can damage that shovelhead's head. Bouncing literally looks like you bouncing. There will be no blood effect. Number-wise, only a fraction of damage will be dealt and you cannot chain combos if you bounce. So what exactly does the number 168 represent? I'll tell what it doesn't represent: It DOES NOT represent actual damage. Smashing a monster in the face will not auto-deal 168 damage. The number 168 is "theoretical power". If the world of Monster Hunter were super-duper perfect, then you'd deal 168 damage. But it's not always perfect. Monsters have weak points and strong points, and hitting either one results in difference in damage, not to mention you hitting the monster spot-on or not. Each weapon class has its own individual damage multiplier in the first place, and let's not go into things like which attack you used, which part of the blade connected with the monster, etc. As you can probably tell, it gets complicated. The following table shows you basic damage multipliers. What I want you beginners to take away from this is that BETTER SHARPNESS IS BETTER and to ALWAYS STAY AT MAXIMUM SHARPNESS WHENEVER POSSIBLE. The sharpness levels you will want per rank: Low Rank: GREEN SHARPNESS High Rank: BLUE SHARPNESS G Rank: WHITE or PURPLE SHARPNESS (PURPLE is the best) I will mention that there are in-depth game formulas on how exact damage is determined, similar to games like Pokemon and Fire Emblem. But this guide will not cover them. Instead, here's a very simple table about sharpness damage multipliers! ************************************************ * Color | Raw | Elemental * *----------------------------------------------* * Red | 0.50 | 0.25 * *----------------------------------------------* * Orange | 0.75 | 0.50 * *----------------------------------------------* * Yellow | 1.00 | 0.75 * *----------------------------------------------* * Green | 1.05 | 1.00 * *----------------------------------------------* * Blue | 1.20 | 1.0625 * *----------------------------------------------* * White | 1.32 | 1.125 * *----------------------------------------------* * Purple | 1.50 | 1.20 * ************************************************ You'll probably see that the base-level Great Sword has power in the high 300s while Ludroth Pair, which is higher-up in the Dual Swords hierarchy, only musters 168 base power (if you were to look at the weapons the game starts you out with) This shows just how much more raw power other weapons possess. So how could you possibly compensate for such low power? Elements! ---------- Elements ---------- Monster Hunter has the following "ELEMENTS": Water Fire Thunder Dragon Ice SLIME is technically an element but is exclusive to Brachydios and its weapons so I will not cover it here. Just know that SLIME is broken and is great for breaking monster parts and that once you finally unlock Brachydios it'll be in your best interest to forge a pair of Dios Slicers. Some consider SLIME to be the noobiest of noob elements because of its overpoweredness, but while no monster ever is immune to slime, some monsters have higher tolerance to it than others. In my opinion, slime is as legitimate as any other element/status to attach to your weapon. For the most part, element weakness can be pretty up in the air. Wait, that Royal Ludroth is weak to FIRE? And Lagiacrus is a water monster, not an electric one? BOTH? So what does this mean for you? It means that nothing's ever guaranteed. Yippee! For example, Barroth likes to coat itself in mud. If Barroth is coated in mud, it's weak to water, meaning Ludroth Pair, a water-element weapon, will be great. But once you break all that fancy mud armor off, it's immune to water and weak to fire. ******************** * NOTE * * Immune to element* * does NOT equal * * immune to weapon * * altogether. * ******************** Continuing with our Ludroth Pair, it says "WA 120". This means it is of the WATER element (durr) and has 120 elemental power. This is factored in with things like your sharpness (refer to table above), the weakness of the monster to a particular element and the PART of the monster you are attacking, a dividing constant, and a defense constant. Again, complicated. The end result is that under your average conditions you'll probably be dealing around 1 - 5 points of extra damage if monster is weak to element. Beginners, just remember this: Higher elemental power = more extra damage. Yay. Let me guess: You're thinking that that's so puny it hardly matters. Well, it does, especially when you consider that in one opening, Dual Swords can attack 3 or 4 times to make up for their lower power. Like car gas bills, Dual Swords damage can add up. All I can tell you is that do yourself a favor and research your monsters. Monster Hunter Wiki is always a great site, and in terms of videos, iCEMANnoob has GREAT video guides on, literally, every monster in MH3U, including subspecies. ---------- Statuses ---------- Some Dual Swords you'll notice don't have "WTR" or "DRG" or "THD", but instead "PAR". What on earth is PAR? A golf element? Not quite. Bloodwings, for example, a dual sword available at 4-star quests, aren't of any of the specific elements and can instead POISON a monster. In addition to poison, they can also inflict extra damage, just like elemental weapons can, but this depends on the monster. (Poison WRECKS Duramboros! OHO! A HINT!) The two main statuses you'll want to care about are PARALYSIS and POISON. Paralysis is essentially a free shock trap and gives you extra time to, say, go into Demon Mode and attack a lot. Poison inflicts constant damage over a period of time just like any other game with poison involved and is a good way to whittle down the monster even if you yourself are unable to find an attack opening. Each monster has its own specific "Tolerance" to a status effect. Higher Tolerance = harder to inflict status. Obviously monsters like Gigginox can never and will never be poisoned because they themselves are poison. ACTUALLY I'M JUST KIDDINNG. Gigginox can be poisoned o_o but she has incredibly high tolerance to it. Anyways, do yourself a favor and look online at tolerance values for a monster you're about to face if you are considering something like Bloodwings or Gobul Stunprongs. That way, you won't find yourself in for a nasty surprise when your monster just won't get itself poisoned or paralyzed. Oh, and please don't go trying to poison Gigginox unless you just want to see it for the lolz. WHICH YOU PROBABLY DO BUT DON'T. ======================== Recommended Armor Sets ======================== Armor comes with its set SKILLS. Just like Final Fantasy characters can learn skills, just like Fire Emblem classes each have their unique skills a character can equip, just like Pokemon each have unique abilities. Skills for armor sets are based off of how many SKILL POINTS you accumulate. For example, your Leather Armor has +10 points Spirit's Whim, because each of the five pieces (head, chest, waist, arms, and legs) adds +1, +2, or +3 to the total. Thus, because you had at least 10 points, Spirit's Whim activated. If you were to miraculously have 15, Divin Whim would activate. And if you had -10 (yes, negative skill points ARE possible), then Spectre's Whim would activate. It is a BAD SKILL. You can view the SKILL POINT TABLE by viewing your STATUS and scrolling to the third page. The following skills are king for any blademaster, and Dual Swords especially: ************************************************************* * SKILL | DESCRIPTION * *-----------------------------------------------------------* * Razor Sharp | Halves the rate your weapon sharpness* * | decreases * *-----------------------------------------------------------* * Sharpness+1 | Boosts your sharpness by (most * * | commonly) one level. About the only * * | way to reach PURPLE sharpness * *-----------------------------------------------------------* * Speed Sharpener | Speeds up your sharpening speed. Less* * | time spent being vulnerable! * *-----------------------------------------------------------* * Critical Eye | Boosts weapon Affinity (the chance * * | you might land a CRITICAL HIT, * * | which scores approx. 3x damage!) * ************************************************************* Another skill that's useful for underwater combat is QUICK SHEATHE. You'll sheathe your weapons super fast so you can sprint-swim away without wasting a second of time! The easiest way to obtain QUICK SHEATHE is to either forge Decorations (look online to see what they are) or to forge a full set of the beautiful dapper BNAHABRA ARMOR. Yeah, I know, you hate killing bugs, but it's the easiest thing to do. One does not die by doing pest control. The top two skills you'll absolutely want if you choose Dual Swords are: RAZOR SHARP and SHARPNESS+1. They are CRUCIAL, especially SHARPNESS+1. So, where to get these? Low Rank hunters you'll only get (and need) RAZOR SHARP, which will in essence halve the number of Whetstones you use. It is NOT simply a minor convenience, it's a huge help. Razor Sharp is available through a full set of GREAT WROGGI armor, which you will have access to after 2-star quests, when you unlock FLOODED FOREST, the Great Wroggi's domain. Bring ANTIDOTES when you fight the thing. In fact, WROGGI ARMOR is singlehandedly the most useful armor you'll ever need for Low Rank. Theoretically you could only ever forge Wroggi Armor and be done with it (although, as you transition into High Rank, you'd better forge some Lagiacrus or Rathalos armor. JUST SAYING) Here is a table listing what you'll need for WROGGI ARMOR. ************************************************************* * PART | RESOURCES * *-----------------------------------------------------------* * Helm | King's Beak x1, Great Wroggi Hide x2, * * | Wroggi Scale x2, Killer Beetle x2 * *-----------------------------------------------------------* * Mail | Great Wroggi Hide x2, Great Wroggi Claw x1, * * | Poison Sac x3, Ice Crystal x5 * *-----------------------------------------------------------* * Vambraces | Great Wroggi Claw x2, Great Wroggi Hide x2, * * | Wroggi Scale x2, Carpenterbug x3 * *-----------------------------------------------------------* * Faulds | Wroggi Hide x3, Wroggi Scale x2, * * | Monster Bone S x6, Killer Beetle x3 * *-----------------------------------------------------------* * Greaves | Great Wroggi Claw x2, Great Wroggi Hide x2, * * | Wroggi Hide x3, Carpenterbug x3 * ************************************************************* ===================== Recommended Weapons ===================== All right. Here's the best weapons that will go along wonderfully with your newfound, beautiful, cowboy/cowgirly Wroggi Armor! Or whatever-armor-you- chose armor. The game starts you out with Matched Slicers, but of course, that's like BLEAH. Upgrade them as soon as you can to Matched Slicers+! Or, better yet, forge a pair of JAGGID SHOTELS, which you can easily obtain once you've unlocked GREAT JAGGI! Upgrade them to JAGGID SHOTELS+, then once you've unlocked GREAT BAGGI, upgrade them to LEADER'S SHOTELS. But BEFORE YOU DO THAT, go kill a lot of ROYAL LUDROTH and forge a LUDROTH PAIR. Then once you've got GIGGINOX, go upgrade 'em quick to BLOODWINGS. Finally, once you've hit 5-star, and you've unlocked AGNAKTOR, kill him a few times (or capture him, you know, it gives better awards), and upgrade your LEADER'S SHOTELS to FLAMESTORM, one of the rare fire element Dual Swords available (when I say rare, I mean it). Alternatively, kill RATHALOS and RATHIAN and forge their corresponding Dual Swords (they share one, isn't that romantic?) Once you've unlocked the Tundra area, fight LAGOMBI (they're easy, don't worry, they're like slidey Arzuros). Then you can have your very first Ice weapon, SNOW SLICERS! They'll upgrade to SNOW SLICERS+ once you've unlocked the BARIOTH in the 5-star tier of quests. And that will set you just fine for Low Rank, and even into early High Rank. If you wish to know what resources are necessary, I have a list of all Dual Swords at the end of this guide. So you can Ctrl+F to find what you need! [High Rank and G Rank weapon recommendations coming soon] Once you're around G Rank-ish, you'll notice some Dual Sword with more than one element attached to them. Namely, DICHOTOMY, forged from Agnaktor and Glacial Agnaktor parts, with Fire AND Ice attached to it (albeit at lower powers). They are a lot more impractical than their coolness would suggest. Oftentimes a monster is weak to Fire but immune to Ice, or the other way around. This means you're better off just using higher powered single-element weapons. The only truly notable monster that you could use those Fire+Ice DSes on would be Alatreon. Of course, if you're a hunter who would NEVER get caught using last season's weapons (like me), you'll probably forge a pair because they look so darned AWESOME. ====================== Demon/Archdemon Mode ====================== I said I'd give it its own section. Here it is. This is the selling point of the Dual Swords, and what makes up for their low raw power. Earlier I said if you press the R shoulder button with your weapon unsheathed and at the ready, you go into DEMON MODE. If you look at the touch screen (or top screen, depending on your settings) you will notice a slim horizontal bar below your stamina bar. It's much smaller and shorter. That's your DEMON BAR, as I'll call it. When you go into Demon Mode, your stamina bar will deplete at a constant and fairly quick rate. If you wish to exit Demon Mode, you have the following options: 1. Get hit. This normally happens on accident lol, don't get hit on purpose to exit Demon Mode. 2. Sheathe your weapon. 3. Stamina depletes all the way and your Demon Bar isn't full. 4. Press R again. This enables you to exit Demon Mode without having to sheathe and unsheathe, saving time. But if you're in Demon Mode and your Demon Bar fills up (it will become totally red) then it will flash red and white and you'll see the red haze has spread to your entire body. This is a GOOD THING. You have entered ARCHDEMON MODE. Your attacks are amped up even further, you attack faster, and even better, your stamina bar will not deplete! Your Demon Bar will, but at a fairly slow rate. ------------ Demon Mode ------------ First, let's just talk about Demon Mode. In Demon Mode, if you press B to dodge, you don't roll. Instead, you do a Demon Dash (as I'll call it) and you flit quickly to one side or another depending on where you're going. DEFINITELY superior to the roll. It costs STAMINA, however, and in Demon Mode your Stamina's already depleting, so be careful. Unless, of course, you bring...DASH JUICE! I highly recommend you bring Dash Juice if you've got some. Or Mega Dash Juice. DASH EXTRACTS, one of the Dash Juice's ingredients, is a potential carve reward from Royal Ludroth. I hope you like Royal Ludroth, cos you're gonna need those extracts. Anyways. Another thing about Demon Mode is that your attacks are not only sped up, but pressing X just once will give you a pretty long attack (and combo-ing it with the A button is even longer). It may not be the biggest time difference, but considering it's monster's we're talking about, you'll want to plan your hits carefully. Your attacks are Demon Flurries, so they're supah cool but leave you supah vulnerable. Being in Demon/Archdemon Mode theoretically is supposed to give you some resistance to wind and water pressure from monsters taking off in your face or torpedoing right past you underwater, respectively, but I don't really see much of a difference. So once you're in Demon Mode, just attack stuff, and your bar will fill up. Don't get hit though, or else you exit Demon Mode and your only reward is a half-filled Demon Bar. The best times to go into Demon Mode are as follows, in order of best-ness. 1. You placed a Pitfall Trap/Shock Trap and the monster got caught. 2. You flinched the monster (i.e. it's flailing on its back/side). 3. The monster's asleep and is pretty much screaming for you to hit it. Also, the monster's eating something. 4. The monster's very visibly tired and is standing for a long time doing nothing between its attacks, leaving wide opening for attack. ---------------- Archdemon Mode ---------------- Congratulations! You're in Archdemon Mode. Your attacks will no longer be ridiculously long but you will still attack and move faster than outside of Demon or Archdemon Mode. You will retain your Demon Dash, by the way, but it will take Stamina so be careful about your Stamina. Hooray for quick dodging! Once your bar depletes, you exit Archdemon Mode. You cannot exit Archdemon Mode by taking damage or sheathing your weapon. But being in Archdemon Mode doesn't hurt you, so don't worry about it. In Archdemon and Demon Mode, your attack power is exponentially higher (I do not know the actual figures. If you do, I will be more than happy to give you credit) and easily makes up for the lack of initial raw power granted by other weapons. It's similar to Spirit Dancing with the Long Sword, by the way, for those of you familiar with the Long Sword. Other than that, Archdemon Mode is pretty much the same as Demon Mode. It's a high risk high reward sort of manuver. But "high risk high reward" is basically Dual Swords, so you should just get used to it because otherwise it's just too bad for you. ==================== Dual Sword Tactics ==================== I will not give you a guide on how to dual sword every single monster. Learn it on your own, research, and have fun with it, ok? That said, the overall tactics of monster hunter also apply to Dual Swords, so veteran hunters feel free to not take this with a grain of salt. Beginner hunters, read carefully. This, my friends, is the golden rule of Monster Hunter: Don't get hit, hit it till it dies. Once again: Don't get hit, hit it till it dies. Easier said than done? Of course. But as no-duh and captain-obvious as it sounds, saying this in your head WILL help you become a better hunter. 1. OBSERVE. I cannot stress this enough. DO NOT DIVE STRAIGHT INTO THE FRAY. I KNOW you want to just kill the thing. But please. Your life is more important!!! All I can say is this: If you've fought the monster before, then you know its attack patterns and you know exactly when and where you can strike. So go on ahead. Monsters' AIs aren't so complex that their attacks shuffle up to something different each time you fight them. If it's your FIRST time ever hunting a monster, then you'd best prepare yourself for anything. First off, I dearly hope you did your research. Don't dive straight into any hunt without doing research. Why not make use of the gifts other hunters have bestowed upon you in the form of video guides and Monster Hunter Wiki? Once you've got a general idea of at least its attacks, go on ahead, take your quest, find its area, watch its biology video (Gigginox's is particularly disgusting). Make sure you keep your camera locked onto it at all times. Play a bit defensively at first. Once you have a better feel for how the monster works (e.g. when Gigginox is "giving birth", she is particularly vulnerable to attack) go on ahead. But strike a balance between offense and defense. Just because I tell you to stand back and "fight without fighting" for a bit, doesn't mean you should spend 20 minutes running in circles believing you ought to 100% KNOW a monster. THAT will only come with time. 2. Be prepared for RAGE MODE. Sometime during the process, you'll notice that the monster suddenly isn't having such an opening anymore. It charges at you, somersaults, and then charges right back at you even though you ran in the opposite direction. It's moving faster, and attacking like a tank. That means the monster has gone into RAGE MODE. When this happens, it's CRUCIAL that you be ever more aware of your surroundings. If a monster is in Rage Mode, never assume that once it finishes an attack, it'll leave you an opening. It might chain two, three, up to even four or five attacks together before you get an opportunity. Rage Mode can easily catch even experienced hunters off guard, so make sure you know the monster's signs that it's in Rage Mode. The most common one is that white puff of smoke. Others include eyes turning red, parts of the monster change color, etc. Rage Mode can be especially dangerous to Dual Swords user. If you catch yourself up in a length combo with no way to break out of it, the monster might just whirl around and break your attack for you. So dive in, press the X button once, dive out. So what do you do about Rage Mode in general? One option is to just leave the area, pull yourself together, and come back when the monster has calmed down. If you're seriously about to fall apart, there is never any shame in leaving, healing, sharpening up, and mining and bug-catching while you gather your brain back together and allow the monster to cool off. The more commonly taken path, though, is to just tough it out, deal with it, and keep your cool. Monsters won't stay in Rage Mode for forever. 3. PRACTICE. This is painfully self-explanatory. 3. Keep your gear UP TO DATE. Trust me on this. As soon as you can, upgrade your armor and your weapons, or forge new armor and weapons. You can't expect to use the Matched Slicers the game started you out with on a Lagiacrus, right? Better weapons can reach better sharpness levels, ensuring you don't bounce off. Better armor helps your ability to take hits, and comes with better skills (most of the time). Simply making sure your armor and weapons are appropriate for your quest can go a long way in giving you success after success. (By the way, this same philosophy applies to your items.) 4. Know your ELEMENTS. I went over this earlier and I'll say it here again. Also be aware of monsters who are weak to one element in one state and weak to another only in another state. There are three solutions to this. The first one, and the one I recommend you don't use, is to bring a weapon of one of the elements said monster is weak to and only attack during one of its states. This can be time-consuming however. The second solution is to find the monster's secondary weakness. Sometimes, though, at the stage in the game you're in, this may not be possible. The final, and best solution for beginners, is to simply use a neutral weapon. In Low Rank, it's not desperately necessary that you always have elemental weaknesses in check. Just remember that by the time you hit High Rank, you'd better have at least one weapon per element. 5. Never give up! And fight with friends :) Trust me. Fighting with friends, local or online, is always more fun. Plus, you get the added bonus of possibly being able to obtain better weapons and armor before you actually would unlock a monster in solo play. I, for example, got the Snow Slicers before I completed my 1-star quests. This not only made my solo campaign (up until 4-star anyway) a tad easier, but it was fun fighting Lagombis together and it developed my skills while still giving me a "crutch". I also felt much safer and could attempt more reckless things that I never would have done if I were soloing, when stakes are much higher. =================== Underwater Combat =================== Premiered in Tri and continues to be integral in Moga Village in 3 Ultimate... which is basically the same as Tri but this time there's DUAL SWORDS which is why this guide exists. Infuriating for some, fun for others, but overall regarded as much more difficult than land battle, especially for beginners. Considering that this guide is for you beginners, here is the basics on how to manuver around underwater. The biggest difference between land and sea is that you can not only move left right, forwards and backwards, but also up and down. As long as you're moving forward, move around your camera angle and you'll be able to move up and down. If your camera faces up to the surface (you'll see glimmering rays of sunlight) you'll eventually get your head above the water. If you've just dove into the water and you point your camera down, you will only see the top of the water. But eventually the camera will "break" through this and you'll see yourself in your underwater glory. Another crucial difference is that you obviously have to hold your breath underwater. Your oxygen level is indicated by a small vertical bar next to your health and stamina meters. If it goes all the way down, your health will drain. Bring along Mini Oxy Supplies (sometimes if your monster is an underwater monster, the supply box will have 2 for you). Occassionally, once you have Cha-cha and/or Kayamba, they may do a dance that replenishes your oxygen. The two Shakalaks DO have AI that tells them to do a particular dance when you're critical in a certain way. If you're low on health, at least one of them is pretty much guaranteed to do a Health Recovery dance for you. Same goes for oxygen. Still, bring the Oxygen Supplies. But the more reliable way to replenish your oxygen without having to swim all the way back up to surface is to find oxygen bubbles along the sea floor. Swim through them and you'll hear a noise and see white rays of light swirl around you, indicating that your oxygen has been replenished. One of the more annoying aspects of underwater combat is that the camera will sometimes screw with you and be above water, so that all you can see is yourself underwater and the monster half in, half out of the water. This severely limits your ability to manuver successfully because water is NOT transparent in this game (it's even worse if you're in Flooded Forest, where the water is murky already). In order to rectify this, you will have to point your camera down as far as possible and swim as fast as you can, then press L and reorient yourself to face your monster. You will find yourself pressing L more often than not. Because you will not only be orienting yourself left/right, but also up/down, auto-target locking on the monster will enable you to swim towards it without having to manually move around the camera. If you're on a 3DS without a Circle Pad Pro, I'm sure you know by now that if you want to move the camera, you have to stop moving, orient the camera, then return your thumb to the circle pad. This costs time and leaves you vulnerable to attack (if you can afford it, get out there and buy a Circle Pad Pro. Please. Or you could, you know, use the claw that the Sony players had to use lol. But it could give you CARPAL TUNNEL SYNDROME!). Poking the B Button will not cause you to roll. Instead, you will put on a short spurt of speed in the direction your circle pad is pointed in and you will spin as you swim fast, like a human torpedo. This does not give you, as far as I'm concerned, any appreciable invincibility. So evading underwater WILL be a bit of a pain. Learn how to sheathe your weapon and swim away as fast as you can and make it a habit. It will benefit your land-mongering skills too, and will benefit you later if you choose to use heavier weapons, such as Lances. You can use every single item that you can use above land underwater. Okay seriously how do you make a hole in the water. One last thing: Underwater combat is plagued with hitbox diassociation and sometimes, even worse, hitboxes from hell. Prepare yourself for damage even if Lagiacrus's tail DID NOT hit you. Suck it up and just steer clear the next time...if you can. You WILL need underwater combat all throughout the game. It will never go away! So...now... How exactly do you go about using those Dual Swords to fight underwater? Dual Swords are both advantaged and disadvantaged. They are light and mobile, meaning you can swim around while they're unsheathed...and actually get a decent speed. If you need to swim fast to avoid a Gobul charge though, sheathe your weapons and sprint-swim (Superman diving, for obvious reasons, does not work underwater). What makes Dual Swords oftentimes hellish to use underwater, though, is their small hitzone. What is a mere annoyance on land can be your literal death underwater. Having to get up close and personal with a SEA SERPENT is never a good idea, especially considering you're a human (I hope) and water is not exactly a human's best element. This also leads to the issue of spatial perception underwater. You WILL run into the scenario where you thought you were SUPER FAR AWAY from the monster, only to swim closer and BUMP! you've bumped into the monster. TOO CLOSE. The only solution I have is to either turn on the 3D (which will require some getting used to but IS helpful) or to just get used to it and learn to force yourself to attack before you think you're supposed to. This can become annoying, but that's just too bad for you! So. Some tips for fighting underwater. 1. PRACTICE. When you're done practicing, PRACTICE SOME MORE. I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH. And it is still painfull self-explanatory. 2. Keep a dry washcloth or some sort of dry fabric at your side. ...What is this kind of tip doing here? Trust me. If you're a beginner fighting a Royal Ludroth, your hands are going to sweat. And the last thing anyone needs is for your sweaty little thumb to SLIP OFF the circle pad as you attempt to dodge an attack. IT WILL HAPPEN. So just close your 3DS or pause your Wii U, wipe your hands, wipe the 3DS or Wii U gamepad, and continue. The more confident you grow in your abilities, the less this issue will pop up. But don't SWEAT it. *groan* Closing your 3DS and putting it to sleep, by the way, will automatically pause your game when you open it back up. 3. Turn up the brightness. Like, turn it WAY WAY UP. I nearly always keep my 3DS on minimum brightness simply for the sake of battery. But if you're fighting underwater and ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE FIGHTING UNDERWATER IN FLOODED FOREST... TURN THE BRIGHTNESS UP TO AT LEAST TWO OR THREE. OR FOUR OR FIVE. I DON'T CARE. TURN IT UP. 4. Overprepare. And you thought you were overprepared for land combat! Underwater combat is out of your element. And fighting a leviathan who's totally at home in the water doesn't really help things out. So prepare EVEN MORE. Got your 10 Mega Potions? Yay you. Go back and bring 10 Potions and 10 Honey so that you can combine them and make 10 more. Got 20 Whetstones? Grab the 2 Mini Whetstones you're provided with anyways. Just. Bring. EVERYTHING. Also, never forget your OXYGEN SUPPLIES. And if you're in Low Rank, grab those MINI OXY SUPPLIES too. 5. Stick closer to the floor. Does not apply to Flooded Forest, where underwater battle is a nightmare no matter what. But if you're on Deserted Island, Tundra, Volcano, or Misty Peaks (yeah yeah most of them don't even HAVE water areas but whatever) if there is an ocean or lake for you to swim in, sticking closer to the bottom will prevent the camera screw. You will also be able to not get lost and if the monster is above you, you can swim UP to it and attack it's soft underbelly, thus netting you more damage! Plus, those oxygen bubbles are always coming up from the ocean floor, so you'll be swimming down there anyways. Not to mention mineable ores are on the bottom. Aw yeah, mining underwater! ========================= Tackling Large Monsters ========================= ====================== All 100+ Dual Swords ====================== Here is a comprehensive list of all the dual swords except the Japanese-exclusive ones, which I will list ONLY IF they are released to the West. For the beginners' sakes, I will not confuse them more than they already are confused. I know how it feels, so I will attempt to make the layout simple and easy. I will not use random characters to draw actual upgrade trees, instead, I will provide a link to a picture with the upgrade trees. Also check out Ping's Monster Hunter 3 Ultimate Dex, which has EVERYTHING you could ever need to know about carves, locations, and supplies necessary for this, that, and the other. For further simplification, I will order the weapons by upgrade tree. And to make things even EASIER, I will notify you when you hit a new "level" of each tree. A level of an upgrade tree is similar in that each weapon tends to have similar raw power and can be obtained around the same time frame. Layout: WEAPON Base power: Sharpness: (max possible sharpness excluding armor skills) Element: Upgrades from: Upgrades to: Resources: Resources: (second resources list only if weapon is produceable by forging AND upgrading) Forge: (cost to forge, if possible) Upgrade: (cost to upgrade, if obtainable via upgrade) Personal Comments: Any elemental affinity with parentheses () around it will need the armor skill Awaken, which is only obtainable in G Rank. Unless you're at Low Rank, where having something is better than having nothing, try to avoid these. If a High Rank weapon needs Awaken to unlock its full potential, don't even bother. Dual Swords rely heavily on elemental affinity because of low raw power and needing a G Rank skill for a High Rank weapon is just stupid because once you've hit G Rank, you'll need G Rank weapons. Low Rank Awaken-necessary weapons, however, definitely can be used. Likely, you won't really have a choice anyways. Then you can simply use Ctrl+F to figure out what upgrades to what. Some of the information may be blank simply because it is a bit difficult for me to forge EVERY SINGLE WEAPON to see its max sharpness. I am doing extra research so bear with me. ELEMENTAL and STATUS ABBREVIATIONS Wtr = Water Thd = Thunder Drg = Dragon Fir = Fire Ice = Ice Par = Paralysis Psn = Poison Slime = Slime --------------- Starting Tree --------------- Named so because it all branches off the weapon the game starts you off with: the Matched Slicers. This tree contains more than 50 weapons. That's almost half of all possible Dual Swords. LEVEL ONE =Matched Slicers= Base Power: 98 Sharpness: Yellow Elemental: (Ice 50) Upgrades from: None Upgrades to: Matched Slicers+ Resources: Machalite Ore x1, Earth Crystalx2 Forge: 1,500 z Upgrade: - Comments: Your first starting weapon, so you'd have to use it anyways. Upgrade it ASAP though, it's weak and stupid. LEVEL TWO =Matched Slicers+= Base Power: 112 Sharpness: Elemental: (Ice 50) Upgrades from: Matched Slicers Upgrades to: Dual Slicers Jaggid Shotels Resources: Earth Crystal x3, Machalite Ore x2, Carpenterbug x2 Forge: - Upgrade: 2,000 z Comments: Definitely decent and anything's better than those Matched Slicers. LEVEL THREE =Dual Slicers= Base Power: 140 Sharpness: Elemental: (Ice 50) Upgrades from: Matched Slicers+ Upgrades to: Dual Hatchets Resources: Ice Crystal x3, Iron Ore x6, Earth Crystal x4 Forge: - Upgrade: 3,000 z Comments: More powerful Matched Slicers+. Obviously better. Personally, though, I prefer the Jaggid Shotels upgrade path. =Jaggid Shotels= Base Power: 154 Sharpness: Elemental: (Psn 150) Upgrades from: Matched Slicers+ Upgrades to: Jaggid Shotels+ Resources (forge): Jaggi Scale x3, Jaggi Hide x3, Bird Wyvern Fang x5, Ice Crystal x3 Resources (upgrade): Jaggi Scale x2, Jaggi Hide x2 Bird Wyvern Fang x4, Ice Crystal x2 Forge: 5,400 z Upgrade: 3,600 z Comments: Highly recommended. Jaggi gear can get you through a good part of the game. Plus, its upgrades are awesomes. LEVEL FOUR =Dual Hatchets= Base Power: 154 Sharpness: Elemental: (Ice 80) Upgrades from: Dual Slicers Upgrades to: Dual Hatchets+ Insecticutters Resources (forge): Pelagicite Ore x5, Iron Ore x10, Killer Beetle x6 Resources (upgrade): Pelagicite Ore x4, Machalite Ore x7, Earth Crystal x8 Forge: 6,750 z Upgrade: 4,500 z Comments: I don't think it's worth the resources and cost. But you'll absolutely need these if you want Insecticutters or, eventually, Gobul Stunprongs. =Jaggid Shotels+= Base Power: 168 Sharpness: Elemental: (Psn 170) Upgrades from: Jaggid Shotels Upgrades to: Leader's Shotels Twin Acrus Resources: Great Jaggi Claw x2, Great Jaggi Hide x4, Pelagicite Ore x3 Forge: - Upgrade: 5,800 z Comments: Basically the equivalent to the Ludroth Pair and Snow Slicers, only it's obtainable lots earlier. Always recommended. LEVEL FIVE =Dual Hatchets+= Base Power: 168 Sharpness: Elemental: (Ice 80) Upgrades from: Dual Hatchets Upgrades to: Dual Cleavers+ Twin Chainsaws Resources: Isisium x4, Pelagicite Ore x6, Machalite Ore x10 Forge: - Upgrade: 6,500 z Comments: If you want cool-looking swords, don't use these lol. But otherwise they're not bad. =Insecticutters= Base Power: 168 Sharpness: Elemental: Drg 50 Upgrades from: Dual Hatchets Upgrades to: Insecticutters+ Resources: Bnahabra Shell x6, Altaroth Stomach x4, Monster Fluid x4, Monster Bone+ x1 Forge: - Upgrade: 7,900 z Comments: They look nice but you can't get them until you unlock Lagiacrus. If you're lucky enough to get a Monster Bone+ from the Repel the Lagiacrus quest, then lucky you! A rare dragon element weapon. =Leader's Shotels= Base Power: 182 Sharpness: Elemental: (Psn 200) Upgrades from: Jaggid Shotels+ Upgrades to: Flamestorm Resources: Great Baggi Claw x2, King's Frill x2, Baggi Scale x2, Great Wroggi Claw x4 Forge: - Upgrade: 8, 100 z Comments: Expensive and upgrade-only, but it upgrades to what is one of, like, not very many fire-element Dual Swords. =Twin Acrus= Base Power: 182 Sharpness: Elemental: Thunder 100 Upgrades from: Jaggid Shotels+ Upgrades to: Twin Acrus+ Resources (forge): Lagiacrus Claw x4, Lagiacrus Scale x5, Lagiacrus Horn x1, Great Baggi Hide x2 Resources (upgrade): Lagiacrus Tail x1, Lagiacrus Claw x3, Lagiacrus Scale x4, Lagombi Plastrom x1 Forge: 14,250 z Upgrade: 9,500 z Comments: They look cool and they're a great Thunder-element weapon. You will ABSOLUTELY need these if you want to kill Ceadeus in an efficient manner! LEVEL SIX =Dual Cleavers+= Base Power: 182 Sharpness: Elemental: (Ice 100) Upgrades from: Dual Hatchets+ Upgrades to: Hurricane Resources: Firestone x4, Dragonite Ore x6, Machalite Ore x10 Forge: - Upgrade: 8,500 z Comments: For so late in the upgrade tree, its power is a bit lacking. =Twin Chainsaws= Base Power: 196 Sharpness: Elemental: Thd 70 Upgrades from: Dual Hatchets+ Upgrades to: Twin Chainsaws+ Resources: Dragonite Ore x6, Thunderbug x5, Nibelsnarf Hide x3 Forge: - Upgrade: 8,800 z Comments: Boy, these are ugly :D =Insecticutters+= Base Power: 196 Sharpness: Elemental: Drg 80 Upgrades from: Insecticutters Upgrades to: Insectirippers Gobul Stunprongs Resources: Altaroth Jaw x2, Bnahabra Wing x4, Hercudrome x5 Forge: - Upgrade: 11,000 z Comments: Hefty price tag. Plus, you can't practically get it until High Rank. Hercudromes in Low Rank are only available in one particular area of the VOLCANO (not unlocked until 5-star) and the chance of getting them is 3%. wut =Flamestorm= Base Power: 196 Sharpness: Elemental: Fir 200 Upgrades from: Leader's Shotels Upgrades to: Flamestorm+ Resources: Agnaktor Shell x4, Agnaktor Hide x2, Agnaktor Fin x2, Agnaktor Scale x4 Forge: - Upgrade: 12,000 z Comments: These look so awesome! Expensive but recommended. =Twin Acrus+= Base Power: 224 Sharpness: Elemental: Thd 110 Upgrades from: Twin Acrus Upgrades to: Twin Acrus+ Resources: Lagiacrus Horn x2, Lagiacrus Hide x8, Lagiacrus Plate x1, Voltstone x3 Forge: - Upgrade: 22,000 Comments: Powerful but expensive! Can't get 'em uuntil High Rank. LEVEL SEVEN =Hurricane= Base Power: 196 Sharpness: Elemental: (Ice 100) Upgrades from: Dual Cleavers+ Upgrades to: Hurricane+ Dios Slicers Sworn Rapiers Resources: Barroth Carapace x3, Earth Crystal x20, Machalite Ore x20 Forge: - Upgrade: 15,000 z Comments: =Twin Chainsaws+= Base Power: 210 Sharpness: Elemental: Thd 90 Upgrades from: Twin Chainsaws Upgrades to: Guillotines Type 51 Macerators Resources: Carbalite Ore x6, Thunder Sac x4, Slagtoth Hide+ x6 Forge: - Upgrade: 12,200 Comments: =Insectirippers= Base Power: 238 Sharpness: Elemental: Drg 100 Upgrades from: Insecticutters+ Upgrades to: Insectiscythes Resources: Bnaha Carapace x6, Quality Sac x4, Monster Brother x4, Rare Scarab x2 Forge: - Upgrade: 18,800 Comments: =Gobul Stunprongs= Base Power: 210 Sharpness: Elemental: Para. 150 Upgrades from: Insecticutters+ Upgrades to: Gobul Stunprongs+ Resources: Gobul Hide+ x5, Gobul Fin+ x4, Gobul Lantern x3 Forge: - Upgrade: 13,000 Comments: These are the dual swords of the demo! Just a fun fact. =Flamestorm+= Base Power: 238 Sharpness: Elemental: Fir 230 Upgrades from: Flamestorm Upgrades to: Salamanders Resources: Agnaktor Beak x4, Agnaktor Claw+ x3 Agnaktor Hide+ x4, Agnaktor Carapace x5 Forge: - Upgrade: 26,000 Comments: =Levin Acrus= Base Power: 308 Sharpness: Elemental: Thd 130 Upgrades from: Twin Acrus+ Upgrades to: Neo Twin Acrus Resources: Shell Shocker+ x3, Lagiacrus Claw+ x5, Lagia Sapphire x1, Blackcurl Horn x1 Forge: - Upgrade: 40,000 z Comments: LEVEL EIGHT =Hurricane+= Base Power: 252 Sharpness: Elemental: (Ice 120) Upgrades from: Hurricane Upgrades to: Cyclone Resources: Uragaan Carapace x5, Carbalite Ore x15 Machalite Ore x30 Forge: - Upgrade: 25,000 Comments: =Dios Slicers= Base Power: 266 Sharpness: Elemental: Slime 170 Upgrades from: Hurricane Upgrades to: Dios Slicers+ Resources (forge): Brach Carapace x5, Brach Ebonshell x3 Brach Scalp x2, Firecell Stone x3 Resources (upgrade): Brach Carapace x3, Brach Ebonshell x2 Brach Scalp x1, Mystery Slime x3 Forge: 36,000 z Upgrade: 24,000 z Comments: These are incredibly sexy. Slime is a very powerful element/status thing. Get 'em! =Sworn Rapiers= Base Power: 238 Sharpness: Elemental: Wtr 70 Upgrades from: Hurricane Upgrades to: Sworn Rapiers+ Resources (forge): Carbalite Ore x6, Lightcrystal x4, Gracium x4, Luminous Organ x2 Resources (upgrade): Gracium x5, Lightcrystal x4, Plesioth Webbing x3 Forge: 21,900 z Upgrade: 14,600 z Comments: =Guillotines= =Type 51 Macerators= =Insectiscythes= =Gobul Stunprongs+= =Salamanders= =Neo Twin Acrus= LEVEL NINE =Cyclone= =Dios Slicers+= =Sworn Rapiers+= =Golem's Saws= =Deathsnarfs= =Entomotheos= =Plegion Stunsword= =Ignis Noire= =Dichotomy= =Neo Acrus Whitebolt= LEVEL TEN =Tornado Hatchets= =Demolition Blades= =Holy Sabers= =Golem's Maneaters= =Uber Deathsnarfs= =Agnaktor Inferno= =Elemenders= LEVEL ELEVEN It's a rare weapon that goes this far. =Typhoon= =Spectral Demolisher= =Guild Knight Sabers= ----------- Bone Tree ----------- Named after their starting weapon, the Bone Scythes, which are available very early. Another extremely big tree. And the second big tree: The rest are all small trees. This tree is home to two Dual Swords I highly recommend for Low Rank: Ludroth Pair and Snow Slicers. In fact, don't get the Bone Scythes. Both Ludroth Pair and Snow Slicers are forgeable right off the bat :D LEVEL ONE =Bone Scythes= LEVEL TWO =Bone Scythes+= LEVEL THREE =Chief's Scythes= LEVEL FOUR =Ludroth Pair= =Snow Slicers= LEVEL FIVE =Ludroth Pair+= =Bloodwings= =Snow Slicers+= =Diablos Bashers= LEVEL SIX =Double Droth= =Plesioth Cutlasses= =Bloodwings+= =Brother Flames= =Snow Sisters= =Diablos Bashers+= LEVEL SEVEN =Hidden Gemini= =Userper's Fulgur= =Plestioth Cutlasses+= =Venom Wings= =Boltgeist= =Brother Blaze= =Blizzardioths= =Diablos Mashers= LEVEL EIGHT =Night Wings= =Despot's Blitz= =Plesioth Machetes= =Grimgrim Wings= =Double Boltwings= =Wyvern Lovers= =Blizzarioths+= =Diablos Sinidex= LEVEL NINE =Vimar Slicers= =Eclipse Slicers= =Oppressor's Miracle= =Brimstren Drakeclaws= =Verdant Slashers= =Jade Plesioth Fans= =Grimmest Noxwings= =Double Deathbolts= =Wyvern Strife= =Raider's Icecarvers= =Ventus Vindictus= =Sinistrus Dextraos= LEVEL TEN =Midnight Blackwings= =Alkaid's Asterism= =Nether Twinblades= =Stygian Superbia= =Alluvion Slashers= =Jade Battlefanzers= =Wyvern Conciliation= =Raider's Savagery= LEVEL ELEVEN It's a rare weapon that gets this far. =Nether Confidants= -------------- Big Appetite -------------- Start with Glutton's Tools, which are essentially silverware. Yeah. This is a very silly line in terms of looks. A small tree with an entirely edible theme. Kinda borders onto Joke Item territory, but they're not THAT bad... LEVEL ONE =Glutton's Tools= LEVEL TWO =Gorger's Tools= LEVEL THREE =Stewbry Stirfoils= LEVEL FOUR =Deepshake Frybakers= ------------- The Planets ------------- Named after the starting weapon Mercury's Edges. A very small tree based entirely around Ceadeus and Goldbeard Ceadeus. LEVEL ONE =Mercury Edges= LEVEL TWO =Neptune Edges= LEVEL THREE =Pelagic Deublades= --------------- Scaredy Crows --------------- Named after the starting weapon Shaka Scarecrows. Another silly looking and small tree. If you want to get these weapons, Kayamba and Cha-cha have to be good friends! LEVEL ONE =Shaka Scarecrows= LEVEL TWO =Chum Scarecrows= LEVEL THREE =Chum-Chum Scarecrows= ----------- The Devil ----------- The Deviljho Dual Swords line. Yeah, the Deviljho is so awesome it gets its own (small) upgrade tree. LEVEL ONE =Wrath & Rancor= LEVEL TWO =Wrathful Predation= LEVEL THREE =Nero's Wrath= ----------- Worn Tree ----------- When it starts out, it SUCKS. When it ends, it still sucks. And it costs a ton. And it needs 99 Earth Crystals. Buuuut if you're like me and you like smexy weapons, go on straight ahead. Oh, it's not obtainable until G RANK! Ha ha ha. LEVEL ONE =Worn Blade= LEVEL TWO =Weathered Blades= LEVEL THREE =Enduring Schism= LEVEL FOUR =Enduring Sacrifice ----------- Dire Tree ----------- Dire Miralis tree. Extremely small tree based around yet another final boss. OOOOOPS I JUST SPOILED THE GAAAAAAME. LEVEL ONE =Megiddo Nova= LEVEL TWO =The Fistolution= Thanks for reading~