LLL EEEEEE GGGGGG EEEEEE NN NN DDD D
LLL EEE GGG EEE NNNN NN DDD D
LLL EEEEEE GGG GGG EEEEEE NN NN NN DDD D
LLLLLLL EEE GGG GG EEE NN NN NN DDD D
LLLLLLL EEEEEE GGGGGGGG EEEEEE NN NNNN DDDD
OOOOOOO FFFFFFF
OO OO FF
OO OO FFFF
OO OO FF
OOOOOOO FF
MM MM A NN NN A
MMM MMM A A NNNN NN A A
MM M M MM AAAAA NN NN NN AAAAA
MM MM MM A A NN NN NN A A
MM MM A A NN NNNN A A
0000 0000
00 00 0000000000 00 00
00 00 00 00000 00
00 00 00
00 0000 0000 00
000000 00 00 00
0000 0000 0000 00
0000 00 00
00 0000 0000 00
00 0000 00 00
00 00 00 00
00 0000 00
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00000000 PETS AND PLANTS 00
0000 00
00000000000000000000000
LEGEND OF MANA: Pets and Plants
--------------------------------
Written by KurasuSoratobu ([email protected])
Present version: 6.1.1
INDEX
-------
Copyright info
Introduction
Why the mini-FAQ?
A) PETS
A1.............. Egg Locations and directions
A2.............. Demi-humans
A3.............. Catching Eggs
A4.............. Egglist
A5.............. Newborn Monster Stats and Gains
A6.............. Synchro Effects
A7.............. Monster By Monster
B) PLANTS
B1.............. Produce
B2.............. Produce And Stats
B3.............. Personalities
B4.............. Meats
B5.............. Seeds and Planting
Update Info
Still To Come
Requests
Thanks To...
COPYRIGHT INFO
--------------
Legend Of Mana: Pets And Plants FAQ, copyright 2007 Kurasu Soratobu. This file
may not be published in part, or without this Copyright, without explicit
permission from the author. Legend Of Mana, Seiken Densetsu, etc. are all
rights of Squaresoft.
If someone wants to post this list to their site, please get in touch with me
at [email protected] and ask. I am more than happy to let people post this
elsewhere, so long as I can get the full credit for it, and can be aware of
where it's going for my own personal knowledge. Please make certain you put
'FAQ', 'Legend Of Mana', or 'Pets And Plants' in the title so I file it in
other-than-junk.
INTRODUCTION
--------------
If you don't know what Legend Of Mana is, then why are you reading this FAQ?
The Legend Of Mana is a ridiculously addictive RPG, put out by Squaresoft.
This game is the fourth in the Seiken Densetsu (as in Secret Of Mana, etc.)
series. It may be more 'childlike' in appearance than the other games, but it
is not in the least bit easy. This game is fun, challenging, and pleasantly
engaging for people of all ages.
In the game, you not only can place lands and such to gain the adventures, but
you can (as the game progresses) create weapons and armor, build your own
golems, play mini-games, raise produce, and hatch and care for your own pet
monsters. This mini-FAQ, of course, is about the last two.
WHY THE MINI-FAQ?
------------------
While I've managed to find information on pets here and there on the web, I've
yet to find a good FAQ on how to raise, care for, fight with, etc. them.
Therefore, I decided that if I'm going to gather the information into one file
for myself, that I may as well set it up into something that more folks can
use.
While many people prefer the golems for their power and their abilities, I
actually like getting out monsters and playing with them, as well as raising
them. Also, a well-raised monster can garner some good money, if you're in the
need for a few bucks to make that perfect sword (check out the tempering FAQs,
and you'll see how much money you can need for such things!). Also, there are
things that the pets can do that no golem (at least, none I've found) can do.
For instance: the extra XP given by an imp. Or the 'rare item' trick that the
Polter Boxes can bring you. These things alone make the pets worthwhile.
Besides, the pets are a lot of fun to raise and work with.
+=+=+=+=+=+
+ A) PETS +
+=+=+=+=+=+
A1) EGG LOCATIONS AND DIRECTIONS
--------------------------------
The eggs are always found in the same areas of the game. These spots are
usually an ex-boss area, though a few areas aren't anything in particular
except for this. Each area holds one particular type of egg, and each one can
possibly give any of the monsters of that type. Depending on how far the place
is from your home, the larger and more powerful creature-eggs will pop up more
often. For example, you've got the road right beside your house; finding a
Garuda egg will probably take a considerable amount of time (an hour or more).
However, if you go hunting it on the Norn Peaks, which you have placed a long,
long ways away from your house (as an example), it will take you a lot less
time to find it. This is especially noticable with the particularly powerful
monsters. Mana levels themselves don't seem to have anything to do with
finding the creatures about.
Spirits can also be found at these locations, so if you go to one and find a
spirit rather than an egg, don't get discouraged; just back out (or trap the
spirit) and come back. The eggs will eventually show.
Location | Type
-----------------+----------------
Bone Fortress | Undead
Duma Desert | Arthropod
Fieg Snowfields | Dragon
Gato Grottoes | Morph
Jungle | Demonic
Jungle | Plant
Junkyard | Poltergeist
Lake Kilma | Beast
Lake Kilma | Plant
Luon Highway | Aerial
Luon Highway | Reptile
Mekiv Caverns | Oddity
Mekiv Caverns | Reptile
Madora Beach | Aquatic
Madora Beach | Morph
Norn Peaks | Aerial
Norn Peaks | Arthropod
S. S. Buccaneer | Aquatic
Tower Of Leires | Poltergeist
Ulkan Mines | Oddity
White Forest | Beast
*The Duma Desert egg location is only available after the 'Fluorite' event,
once the sand-falls have been removed.
NOTE: I've seen several mentions on-line about there being an egg situated in
the Mindas Ruins area. I've never been able to find it. If anyone has been
able to find an egg in this area at all, I would greatly appreciate the
information on where the section is hidden, and what you can pull up there.
Also, if there are any others I've missed, please tell me where they are and
what sort of eggs you can get there.
Directions:
Bone Fortress: Enter the elevator and go to the third floor. Go left, up the
staircase, through the ribcage hallway, and you're there.
Duma Desert: Thanks to sand-falls, this location is only available after you
have completed the 'Fluorite' quest. Go right to the first fork, up, fight
your way through the next area, go to the left side of the next fork (this is
one place sand will have blocked), continue left until you reach another fork,
go left here (again: where a sand-fall used to be), then finally up.
Feig Snowfields: The path is straightforward for the most part. There will be
only one way you can go on each screen until you get to the save point. From
there, go south, the one just to the left of where you came in (like you were
going to pick up the succubus), then go directly to the right. Again: the path
is one-way, until you come to Queen Altena's hill.
Gato Grottoes: The caves of this place all interlink, making it quite the
maze. Go to the dungeon, first thing. From there, turn left and enter the
first cave, down the stairs, and into the next area. Go left from there and
into the next room, through two Slimes, and out the doorway. Take the pathway
down, go left, and enter the cave there. If you've gone the right way, you
should find a bridge here. Cross that and go up the stairs in the next room,
then turn right, where you'll fight two Shadow Zeroes and a Slime. Keep going
right, fight your way through two Spectres, and enter the first cave going
upwards. Straight up those stairs, and you'll find the meditation room.
Jungle (Demonic Egg): Take the shortcut: use the psychokinetic flowerling and
go to the Forested Ruins. Once you're there, go down the path that's south of
the save point, cut left, fight your way through two Zombies and a Gloommoth,
and keep going on that path. Two Malboros will be here, and further up, a
Tyrannos and a Spiny Shell. Keep going left, and you'll find yourself in this
room.
Jungle (Plant Egg): Again, borrow the psychokinetic one, and head for the
Forested Ruins. This time, though, backtrack on the path. Go right from there,
and you'll find yourself in the Du'Cate's Territory. Keep going to the right
from there, and you'll find yourself at the lake, where the egg will be.
Junkyard: Getting to this one is just a matter of remembering the pattern to
get to the pile. Go to the northern path (Jack in the Box), then the first to
the south (teddy bear), then straight west (doll), continue until you reach
the next fork area, then upwards into the cave-looking spot. Circle around to
the rocking horse path, then continue east until you reach the pile.
Lake Kilma (Plant Egg): Go straight to the left, on first entering. Keep going
left until you reach the first fork, then take the path upward. Go right until
you reach the fork, then continue directly to the right. At the save point is
another fork. This time, take the fork that leads down, immediately turn back
to the left as soon as you enter the next screen, and continue left until you
reach the egg.
Lake Kilma (Beast Egg): Go straight to the left, on first entering. Keep
going left until you reach the first fork, then take the path upward. Go right
until you reach the fork, then take the path slightly upwards.
Luon Highway (Aerial Egg): Travel right until you reach the save point, and a
fork. Continue straight to the right from there and you'll eventually find
yourself at the Lorant Tableland, where the egg is.
Luon Highway (Reptile Egg): Talk to the Boink. Take the pathway down and
toward the left, until you reach the Chobin Hood Cave. Go inside, then down
the stairs and continue left. Keep going, and you'll find yourself in the
room.
Mekiv Caverns (Oddity Egg): Take the upper-right path in the caverns. Fight
through the three bloodsuckers, continue, and go to the upper-right path
again. Follow this path to the next major fork (three-way), go across
(northeast instead of due east), and fight off the mushboom and the skeleton
here. When you travel slightly to the north, you'll find a room where a land
dragon might show up. If it doesn't, this is where your egg is.
Mekiv Caverns (Reptile Egg): Speak to the boink at the lower left hand spot.
Once you've been teleported to his tail, go west, then take the lower left
path down to 'Cavern level 3'. You'll have two mushbooms and a pincher crab to
fight. Finish them off and go down. After the second hallway, you'll find
yourself in the Stalagmite Cavern, where the egg is.
Madora Beach (Aquatic Egg): From the entrance, go right. Keep going until you
find the cave and enter it. Once inside (and after doing any crab-smashing you
want), go to the lower right. Follow the cave until you get to another
crab-cavern, smash as you wish, then go to the cave in the upper right corner.
This'll lead you outside, and to the aquatic egg room.
Madora Beach (Morph Egg): The directions to this are the same as to Eastend
Beach, for the most part: right, into the cave, lower right. However, once
you're at the cavern where you go upper right to Eastend, go to the upper left
instead. Keep going until you come to the cave and go inside. When you get to
the open cavern (with crabs to bash again), go to the lower right path.
Norn Peaks (Aerial Egg): Take the straightforward path up the low hillside and
through the Windcallers' Village. Once you get to the mountain trail with its
forking directions, go to the right. From there, go left to the next screen,
and then go northeast. You'll face off with two Eye Spys and a Howler. At the
next fork over, go to the upper right again. The path will be straightforward
for a few screens, then finally lead to a large room with two paths. Go to the
left path and you're there.
Norn Peaks (Arthropod Egg): First, take the straightforward path up the low
hillside and through the Windcallers' Village. Continue until you reach the
mountain trail with its forking directions, then go right. From there, left to
the next screen and then left again. One final left to the 'Land Of The
Clouds' and bingo! Your arthropod eggs.
S.S. Buccaneer: Yes. There's actually an egg on an inhabited ship, in the
middle of the ocean. Such an odd, odd game, I know! Anyhow, to get to this
egg, go to the forecastle deck and head down the stairs there. Enter the door
that's directly to the left and go down the set of stairs within. Go to the
door at the left end of the hallway, to a room where there's two Sahagins, and
then down that set of stairs. Go through the door, and your egg will be there.
Tower of Leires: Once you've entered the tower, go immediately to the right.
Follow the path around until you reach the stairs and go up. Follow this path
around, ignoring the door and going instead up the path, around, and outside.
This will lead you to the third floor. From here, go in the door with the
transportation device and transport. You'll now be on the sixth floor. From
here, head left from the doorway and go down the stairs. You'll find yourself
at the fifth floor, beside a gold sprite statue. Go right and down, ignoring
the door and following the hallway around to a staircase, which will bring you
back to the sixth floor (but on the opposite side). Exit, go up these stairs,
and you'll be at the seventh floor. Follow it right, through the door and up
the stairs, and you'll be on the eighth floor. Go all the way left, then down
instead of through the door, and continue to the door in the wall. This
transporter will hop you up to the tenth floor. Go right from there, up the
stairs, and circle the hall. There's the door to the room of fate and within,
your Poltergeist egg. Whew. Now you just need to find your way... out.
Ulkan Mines: First off, take the Dudbear Express. Exit the digger's hideout
and go south. Defeat the springball, then go to the left through the door you
just opened, and up the stairs. Go all the way through the room and take the
upper left path. Continue along the straightforward path (there'll be one set
of stairs leading down, but they'll be blocked off) the entire way, and you'll
end up in the room with the egg.
White Forest: As soon as you enter, go to the lower right path. Follow the
pathway until you get to the large room and then go to the lower-left path.
Destroy the rattler boas and keep going until you reach the gold statue. From
here, go due left. The path will wind around until you're in another large
room with multiple exits. Take the upper left path, follow that around, and
then head to the upper left again. Egg-time!
A2) DEMI-HUMANS
---------------
These sneaky little critters can't be found in eggs. Each one is found as-is,
fully-grown and named, in a certain area, when the mana levels in that section
reach a certain level. There is only one of each type, and they sell for 10g,
no matter what the age, power, etc. they are. However, as pets, they're well
worth the trouble to find, due to their power, special abilities, and just
plain coolness value.
Monster | Location | Mana Level
-------------------------------------------
Chobin Hood | Jungle | Dryad 3
Goblin | Lumina (city) | Shade 3 (and dryad 3 as well?)
Mad Mallard | Lake Kilma | Wisp 3
Narcissos | Junkyard | Gnome 3
Sahagin | Desert | Dryad 3
Succubus | Fieg Snowfield | Shade 3
Tomato Man | Norn Peaks | Salamander 3
Exact locations:
Chobin hood: Somewhat South of the faerie's territory, wandering around near a
jungle fork. From the entrance: go right, then take the first path up, then
all the way to the left.
Goblin: Lumina's 'Crescent Moon Alley'. The alleyway northeast of the bar.
Mad Mallard: The first fork other than the entrance.
Narcissos: The entrance of the junkyard. You need to go through the upper path
at the entrance, the lower path in the next area (teddy bear), lower-left in
the next (rocking horse), then through the path and out.
Sahagin: After completing the sub-quest 'The Wimpy Thugling', you find him in
the fork just beyond the entrance. Simply go due right, and he'll be wandering
around waiting for you.
Succubus: The large field, just below the save point. Go through the screens
until you reach the save point (it's a direct path), then take the path south,
just left of the one you arrived from.
Tomato Man: The foot of Norn Peaks. He is directly off the entrance; you can't
miss him.
To get these monsters, just make sure you haven't got a pet along with you and
that you have a space in your stable, and talk to the demi-human walking
around. They will join you as a pet, and from then on are treated like any
normal pet (i.e. they can be fed, leveled, grazed, sold, etc.). Be warned: if
you sell your Demi-human, you can't get another of that type again until you
start another game. However, you can leave them wandering around in the spot
forever, until you decide to pick them up.
A3) CATCHING EGGS
-----------------
While this is explained in the game, catching your eggs is important to the
actual getting of your pets. Therefore, I figure I may as well put the info
down here, as well, just for the ease of people playing.
There are two ways to catch an egg. The first way is to feed them until they
fall asleep. To do this, just drop pieces of meat or produce around (up to
four at a time), and stay out of the monster's field of vision (as shown by
the direction it's walking and the direction of the arrows above its head).
Eventually, it will face one of the foods and go running up to it to eat it.
Once it's eaten, it will either continue to wander (upon which time you need
to let it eat again) or a little 'z' will start appearing above its head.
That's when you run up to it and catch it. Eggs will eat a maximum of two
items before they fall asleep, and it sometimes only takes one.
NOTE: Dragon eggs and poltergeist eggs are picky, eating only produce, rather
than meat. Undead and demonic eggs are picky in the opposite direction: only
meat, no produce. In addition, several eggs will not eat rotten meat even if
they would normally eat other meats. If they dislike the food, a little 'X'
will appear in the balloon, rather than a heart. If that happens, better
change to something else; feeding them those won't get you anywhere.
The second way to catch an egg is to outwit it. This is harder, but it saves
on meat and produce. All you have to do is walk around behind the egg, keeping
out of its line of 'sight' until the balloon above its head turns from arrows
into a blank space, or a space with '...' in it. Then, you just run up and
catch it, as though it were sleeping after eating. This can be difficult, but
I find it a lot of fun to try. Just be ready: it doesn't last forever. Just a
matter of three or four seconds at best, and then the monster's back to
wandering.
NOTE: Some eggs (particularly aquatic and poltergeist) are quite fast, and
therefore hard to follow. In addition, oddity eggs and poltergeist eggs are
the same on all sides, making it hard to tell which way they're facing. In
fact, it's a lot easier to try catching poltergeist eggs by food (because of
their speed, erratic movements, and the facing problem) than following them
around for a while.
Here are basic descriptions on how the basic eggs act and look:
Aquatic: This egg has no feet on it, though it does have a pair of little
fins, a fish-tail, and a smiling, fishy mouth. It hops about, rather than
walks. And boy, can it hop. They're speedy in movements, making them hard to
keep track of even while the sides are extremely obvious. Fortunately, they'll
eat both meat and produce, so you'll have a good selection of 'weapons'
against them. Unfortunately, rotten meat isn't on the menu.
Arthropod: This is a little egg with pointy feet, a pair of antennae, a jagged
line for a mouth, and little fly wings on its back. They move pretty
erratically and turn quickly, though it's very easy to tell which side is
which, so you know where their back is. They can be fed on produce and meat
both, and don't mind rotten meat. Fly eggs. Go figure.
Aerial: Aerial eggs look just like little birds. They have a pair of small
wings, birdlike feet, a feathery little tail, and a beak where its mouth
should be. Their movement is fairly slow, and they're not ones to make abrupt
turns or surprise steps. They aren't vultures, so they won't touch rotten
meat, but otherwise either produce or meat will work on them.
Beast: A pair of little paws and a toothy mouth identify the beast egg. It is
relatively slow-moving, though with a few sudden turns that might catch you
off-guard if you're trying to chase it around. Produce or meat is just fine
with it. No rotten meat, though. Apparently, it's not a scavenger.
Demonic: They're cute little devils, pun fully intended. These eggs have a
pair of little clawed feet, a pair of black devil-wings, horns, rather womanly
lips, and a black and pointy-tipped tail. They aren't super-speedy, but they
do tend to make fairly abrupt turns while they're wandering about. These eggs
will accept any type of meat (including rotten meat), though they won't touch
produce with a ten-foot pole. Demons and their carnivorous habits, I suppose.
Dragon: Dragon eggs are some of the coolest-looking eggs of the bunch. They
have a pair of huge, hooked horns (think the devil in 'Legend' huge; they're
quite disproportionate!), a spiky, reptilian tail, a jagged slash-line for a
mouth, and a pair of huge taloned feet. They are fairly slow-turning and
slow-moving, though they do a heck of a lot of walking for each bout of
'turning' they do. They won't touch meat at all, but you can still capture
them with produce.
Morph: I personally think that morph eggs look more like plant eggs than the
plants do! They have a little green tuft on the top of their shell, and a pair
of little root-like tentacles that they walk around on. They are slow-moving,
easy to catch even without the help of food. And speaking of food, these eggs
will eat both meat and produce, though they're at least picky enough to
dislike rotten meat.
Oddity: Oddity eggs have a little ridge on them, decorating their sides. This
makes it very difficult to tell which way the egg is facing, so you'll have to
pay full attention to the arrow above their heads when they stop. In addition,
they turn sharply and abruptly, and are fairly quick on their 'feet'. They can
be fed on meat of all sorts, including the rotten kind, as well as produce.
Plant: This egg has stick-like feet and a little tuft of green coming out of
the top of its 'head', as well as green lipstick. They are slow moving and
slow turning, and therefore very easy to keep an eye on and to stay behind.
They like both produce and meat, but they won't take rotten meat, even if it
might make good fertilizer.
Poltergeist: These fellows are painted up like Easter eggs, with a bright
stripe down the middle, border-stripes in yellow, and some blue spots on the
end. It also has a spring inside it, opening and closing it like a
jack-in-the-box, or other toy. Because these eggs are the same on all sides,
it's almost impossible to tell the way they're facing unless you're watching
the arrows. Plus, they move fast and erratically. Not much fun to play with,
let me tell you. It doesn't help that they're picky, only-produce-eating eggs,
either. But they're worth catching for the cash, if nothing else.
Reptile: The reptile egg has little clawed (think of alligator or dinosaur)
feet, a tonpole-tail, and a big, lipsy mouth. They're a little faster than the
slow eggs, with a couple more sharp turns, though it's easy enough to tell
which way they're facing. They seem to be pretty quick to notice you, though,
so be careful. Either produce or meat work well, though rotten meat doesn't.
Undead: These eggs are identified by their slightly off-white shade, a
distinct crack across their top, bony little feet (literally; their feet are
made from a couple of bones), and a mouth that looks to have been stitched at
some point. They are slow eggs in almost all ways, not making abrupt turns or
swift shifts. They're really quite easy to catch. Feeding them produce,
however, doesn't work; they're not fond of eating their veggies, apparently.
However, they will take any kind of meat, including rotten.
A4) EGGLIST
-----------
Alright. So you've finally managed to catch that elusive egg. Now, what sort
of egg do you have? Well, you can just let it hatch, and wait to see from
there. But what happens if you've already got a full stable, and want to
decide which egg to discard for the one you just caught? Well, here's the list
of the egg-stats and costs, for those of you who're hunters. Remember: all
eggs sell for 10g if you simply sell them right off the field instead of out
of your stable.
NOTE: These stats also hold true for the newly-hatched monster inside.
Name | Type | HP |ATK | Sells for
---------------------------------------------------------------
Needlebeak | Aerial | 13 | 9 | 50
Bloodsucker | Aerial | 13 | 9 | 70
Cockatrice | Aerial | 32 | 10 | 30
Chocobo | Aerial | 40 | 10 | 300
Garuda | Aerial | 68 | 13 | 500
Iffish | Aquatic | 25 | 9 | 10
Pincher Crab | Aquatic | 25 | 9 | 15
Seadragon | Aquatic | 32 | 10 | 40
Big Baby | Aquatic | 40 | 13 | 80
Seajack | Aquatic | 40 | 15 | 20
Stinger Bug | Arthropod | 13 | 9 | 100
Hoppin' Tick | Arthropod | 13 | 9 | 120
Silkspitter | Arthropod | 25 | 10 | 140
Gloomoth | Arthropod | 32 | 10 | 200
Sand Scorpion | Arthropod | 40 | 13 | 150
Molebear | Beast | 17 | 10 | 60
Rabite | Beast | 21 | 10 | 50
Teedie | Beast | 25 | 9 | 70
Howler | Beast | 32 | 15 | 80
Gray Ox | Beast | 68 | 13 | 100
Imp | Demonic | 17 | 9 | 300
Fierce Face | Demonic | 25 | 10 | 350
Punkster | Demonic | 32 | 10 | 400
Dark Stalker | Demonic | 32 | 15 | 600
Chimera Beast | Demonic | 40 | 13 | 750
Kid Dragon | Dragon | 40 | 13 | 500
Sky Dragon | Dragon | 68 | 13 | 5000
Land Dragon | Dragon | 68 | 15 | 5000
Shadow Zero | Morph | 17 | 9 | 50
Tezla | Morph | 21 | 9 | 60
Denden | Morph | 25 | 10 | 100
Slime | Morph | 40 | 9 | 10
Moldy Goo | Morph | 68 | 10 | 80
Eye Spy | Oddity | 13 | 7 | 5
Spiny Cone | Oddity | 17 | 9 | 100
Poto | Oddity | 21 | 9 | 150
Beholder | Oddity | 25 | 10 | 300
Springball | Oddity | 32 | 10 | 350
Lullabud | Plant | 25 | 9 | 30
Shrieknip | Plant | 25 | 9 | 50
Mushboom | Plant | 32 | 10 | 40
Malboro | Plant | 40 | 13 | 60
Wooding | Plant | 40 | 13 | 80
Chess Knight | Poltergeist | 21 | 10 | 250
Cursed Doll | Poltergeist | 25 | 10 | 100
Dainslaif | Poltergeist | 32 | 13 | 300
Polter Box | Poltergeist | 68 | 10 | 1000
Tonpole | Reptile | 21 | 9 | 20
Lizardon | Reptile | 25 | 10 | 80
Rattler Boa | Reptile | 32 | 10 | 100
Basilisk | Reptile | 32 | 10 | 600
Tyrannos | Reptile | 68 | 15 | 1000
Skull Beast | Undead | 21 | 10 | 10
Specter | Undead | 25 | 9 | 300
Skeleton | Undead | 32 | 10 | 20
Zombine | Undead | 40 | 10 | 5
Ape Mummy | Undead | 68 | 15 | 15
A5) NEWBORN MONSTER STATS
-------------------------
For those of you who might be wondering what those monsters can do when
they're first hatched, here's the list of the different abilities and such
that they have.
Monster | Pow | Skl | Def | Mgc | HP | Spr | Chm | Lck
--------------------------------------------------------------
Basilisk | 3 | 4 | 4 | 7 | 7 | 3 | 8 | 5
Beholder | 2 | 3 | 4 | 8 | 4 | 4 | 10 | 5
Bloodsucker | 3 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 2 | 3 | 7 | 5
Chess Knight | 4 | 4 | 3 | 7 | 3 | 7 | 7 | 5
Chimera Beast | 7 | 3 | 7 | 7 | 8 | 8 | 4 | 5
Chobin Hood* | 8 | 10 | 7 | 4 | 10 | 3 | 3 | 5
Chocobo | 4 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 8 | 4 | 4 | 5
Cockatrice | 3 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 7 | 7 | 7 | 5
Cursed Doll | 3 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 5
Dainslaif | 7 | 8 | 3 | 4 | 7 | 4 | 3 | 5
Dark Stalker | 8 | 7 | 7 | 3 | 7 | 8 | 4 | 5
Denden | 4 | 4 | 8 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 5
Eye Spy | 2 | 3 | 2 | 7 | 2 | 4 | 7 | 5
Fierce Face | 3 | 3 | 3 | 7 | 4 | 4 | 7 | 5
Garuda | 8 | 8 | 7 | 4 | 10 | 4 | 4 | 5
Gloomoth | 3 | 4 | 4 | 7 | 7 | 4 | 7 | 5
Goblin* | 10 | 7 | 8 | 4 | 10 | 3 | 3 | 5
Gray Ox | 7 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 10 | 3 | 3 | 5
Hoppin' Tick | 2 | 7 | 2 | 3 | 2 | 4 | 4 | 5
Iffish | 3 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 5
Imp | 3 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 5
Kid Dragon | 4 | 4 | 4 | 7 | 8 | 7 | 7 | 5
Land Dragon | 10 | 8 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 5
Lizardon | 2 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 5
Lullabud | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 7 | 5
Malboro | 4 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 8 | 3 | 8 | 5
Mushboom | 4 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 7 | 4 | 3 | 5
Narcissos* | 10 | 8 | 7 | 3 | 10 | 7 | 3 | 5
Needlebeak | 3 | 4 | 2 | 3 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 5
Pincher Crab | 4 | 4 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 5
Polter Box | 10 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 10 | 3 | 3 | 5
Poto | 3 | 4 | 3 | 7 | 3 | 7 | 4 | 5
Punkster | 4 | 4 | 4 | 7 | 7 | 8 | 7 | 5
Rabbite | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 8
Rattler Boa | 4 | 7 | 4 | 3 | 7 | 3 | 3 | 5
Sahagin* | 7 | 7 | 7 | 3 | 10 | 7 | 7 | 5
Seajack | 7 | 7 | 3 | 3 | 8 | 4 | 3 | 5
Shadow Zero | 3 | 7 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 5
Silkspitter | 3 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 7 | 5
Slime | 3 | 2 | 10 | 3 | 8 | 2 | 2 | 5
Spiny Cone | 3 | 3 | 7 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 5
Springball | 3 | 8 | 3 | 3 | 7 | 4 | 7 | 5
Sky Dragon | 8 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 10 | 5
Succubus* | 3 | 7 | 3 | 10 | 7 | 8 | 10 | 5
Teedie | 3 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 5
Tomato Man* | 3 | 4 | 3 | 10 | 10 | 8 | 7 | 5
Tonpole | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 5
Tyrannos | 8 | 3 | 7 | 3 | 10 | 3 | 3 | 5
Wooding | 7 | 4 | 4 | 2 | 8 | 2 | 2 | 5
*Demi-human: only one of each per game, and not from egg (see 'demi-humans'
section)
Remember: first-hatched numbers aren't lifetime numbers. These will go up as
the monster levels, and as you feed it different things.
Basic stat-gains are listed here:
Monster | Pow | Skl | Def | Mgc | HP | Spr | Chm | Lck
--------------------------------------------------------------
Basilisk | .25 | 1 | 1 | 1.25| 1.25| .5 | 1.25| 0
Beholder | 0 | .75 | 1 | 1.25| .75 | 1 | 1.25| 0
Bloodsucker | .25 | 1 | .5 | 1 | .25 | .5 | 1.25| 0
Chess Knight | .75 | 1 | .5 | 1.25| .5 | 1.25| 1.25| 0
Chimera Beast | 1 | .75 | 1.25| 1.25| 1.25| 1.25| 1 | 0
Chobin Hood* | 1.25| 1.5 | 1.25| 1 | 1.25| .5 | .75 | 0
Chocobo | .75 | 1 | .75 | .75 | 1.25| 1 | 1 | 0
Cockatrice | .25 | .5 | .5 | 1 | 1 | 1.25| 1.25| 0
Cursed Doll | .5 | 1 | .75 | 1 | .75 | .75 | 1 | 0
Dainslaif | 1 | 1.25| .75 | 1 | 1.25| 1 | .5 | 0
Dark Stalker | 1.25| 1.25| 1.25| .5 | 1.25| 1.25| 1 | 0
Denden | .75 | 1 | 1.25| .75 | .75 | .75 | .75 | 0
Eye Spy | 0 | .5 | .25 | 1.25| .25 | 1 | 1.25| 0
Fierce Face | .5 | .75 | .75 | 1.25| .75 | 1 | 1.25| 0
Garuda | 1.25| 1.75| 1.25| 1 | 1.5 | 1 | 1 | 0
Gloomoth | .5 | 1 | 1 | 1.25| 1.25| 1 | 1.25| 0
Goblin* | 1.5 | 1.25| 1.25| 1 | 1.25| .75 | .5 | 0
Gray Ox | 1 | .5 | 1 | .5 | 1.5 | .5 | .75 | 0
Hoppin' Tick | 0 | 1.25| .25 | .75 | .25 | 1 | 1 | 0
Iffish | .25 | .75 | .5 | 1 | .75 | .75 | .5 | 0
Imp | .25 | 1 | .5 | 1 | .5 | 1 | 1 | 0
Kid Dragon | .75 | 1 | 1 | 1.25| 1.25| 1.25| 1.25| 0
Land Dragon | 1.5 | 1.25| 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 0
Lizardon | .75 | 1 | .5 | .75 | .75 | .5 | .5 | 0
Lullabud | .25 | .75 | .5 | .75 | .75 | .75 | 1.25| 0
Malboro | .75 | .5 | 1 | .5 | 1.25| .75 | 1.25| 0
Mushboom | .75 | 1 | .75 | .75 | 1 | 1 | .75 | 0
Narcissos* | 1.5 | 1.25| 1.25| .5 | 1.25| 1.25| .75 | 0
Needlebeak | .25 | 1 | .25 | .75 | .25 | 1 | .75 | 0
Pincher Crab | .75 | 1 | 1 | .5 | .75 | .25 | .25 | 0
Polter Box | 1.5 | .25 | .75 | .75 | 1.5 | .75 | .75 | 0
Poto | .5 | 1 | .75 | 1.25| .5 | 1.25| 1 | 0
Punkster | .75 | 1 | 1 | 1.25| 1.25| 1.25| 1.25| 0
Rabbite | .25 | .75 | .5 | .75 | .5 | .75 | .75 | .5
Rattler Boa | .75 | 1.25| 1 | .75 | 1.25| .5 | .5 | 0
Sahagin* | 1 | 1.25| 1.25| .5 | 1.25| 1.25| 1.25| 0
Seajack | 1 | 1.25| .5 | .5 | 1.25| 1 | .5 | 0
Shadow Zero | .25 | 1.25| .25 | .75 | .25 | 1 | .5 | 0
Silkspitter | .5 | 1 | .75 | .75 | .75 | .75 | 1.25| 0
Slime | .25 | .25 | 1.5 | .5 | 1.25| .25 | .25 | 0
Spiny Cone | .5 | .75 | 1.25| .75 | .25 | 1 | .75 | 0
Springball | .25 | 1.25| .75 | .75 | 1.25| 1 | 1.25| 0
Sky Dragon | 1.25| 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 1.5 | 0
Succubus* | .5 | 1.25| .5 | 1.5 | 1 | 1.25| 1.5 | 0
Teedie | .25 | .5 | .75 | 1 | .75 | .75 | .75 | 0
Tomato Man* | .25 | 1 | .75 | 1.5 | 1.25| 1.25| 1.25| 0
Tonpole | .25 | .75 | .5 | .5 | .5 | .75 | 1 | 0
Tyrannos | 1.25| .75 | 1.25| .75 | 1.5 | .75 | .75 | 0
Wooding | 1 | 1 | 1 | .25 | 1.25| .25 | .25 | 0
A6) SYNCHRO EFFECTS
-------------------
When you and your pet are close enough together, a line of what looks like
electricity will join the jewels, near your life bars. This is what is called
Synchro Effect. The creatures gain the benefit of your HP Recovery effect,
while you end up reaping the benefit of theirs, whatever it may be. This also
counts for NPCs who are close enough to the monsters to be effected by their
Synchro.
Ape Mummy: ATTK PLS: Demi-humans (More damage to Demi-human monsters)
Basilisk: EFCT PLS: Petrification (Petrification is added to attacks)
Beholder: DFNS PLS: Staring (Defense against Staring increases)
Big Baby: ATTK PLS: Morphs (More damage to Morph monsters)
Bloodsucker: EFCT DFNS: Confusion (Protects against Confusion)
Chess Knight: Defense Plus (Defense level increases)
Chimera Beast: ATTK PLS: Oddities (More damage to Oddity monsters)
Chobin Hood: ATTK PLS: Indirect attacks (More indirect attack damage)
Chocobo: Status Recovery (Status abnormalities are removed)
Cockatrice: EFCT DFNS: Petrification (Protects against Petrification)
Cursed Doll: DFNS PLS: Poltergeists (Less damage from Poltergeists)
Dainslaif: DFNS PLS: Staring (Defense against Staring increases)
Dark Stalker: EFCT PLS: Darkness (Darkness is added to attacks)
Denden: ATTK PLS: Aerials (More damage to Aerial monsters)
Eye Spy: EFCT DFNS: Confusion (Protects against Confusion)
Fierce Face: EFCT DFS: Flame Burst (Protects against Flame Burst)
Garuda: ATTK PLS: Aquatics (More damage to Aquatic monsters)
Gloomoth: EFCT PLS: Confusion (Confusion is added to attacks)
Goblin: ATTK PLS: Slashing (Slashing attacks become more powerful)
Gray Ox: ATTK PLS: Reptiles (More damage to Reptile monsters)
Hoppin' Tick: Luck Plus (Luck level increases)
Howler: Skill Plus (Skill level increases)
Iffish: DFNS PLS: Aquatics (Less damage from Aquatic monsters)
Imp: Bonus XP (Gain more XP crystals)
Kid Dragon: DFNS PLS: Breath (Defense against Breath increases)
Land Dragon: ATTK PLS: Demonics (More damage to Demonic monsters)
Lizardon: Pak'n Choco (Drops Pak'n Choco)
Lullabud: DFNS PLS: Plants (Less damage from Plant monsters)
Mad Mallard: Defense Plus (Defense level increases)
Malboro: EFCT PLS: Paralysis (Paralysis is added to attacks)
Moldy Goo: Power Plus (Power level increases)
Molebear: EFCT DFS: Darkness (Protects against Darkness)
Mushboom: EFCT PLS: Sleep (Sleep is added to attacks)
Narcissos: ATTK PLS: Striking (Striking attacks become more powerful)
Needlebeak: DFNS PLS: Aerials (Less damage from Aerial monsters)
Pincher Crab: EFCT DFNS: Sleep (Protects against Sleep)
Polter Box: Rare Item (Rare items appear more frequently)
Poto: ATTK PLS: Dragons (More damage to Dragon monsters)
Punkster: DFNS PLS: Demonics (Less damage from Demonic monsters)
Rabite: HP Recovery (HP recovery rate increases)
Rattler Boa: EFCT PLS: Poison (Poison is added to attacks)
Sahagin: ATTK PLS: Piercing (Piercing attacks are more powerful)
Sand Scorpion: ATTK PLS: Plants (More damage to Plant monsters)
Seadragon: EFCT PLS: Freeze (Freeze is added to attacks)
Seajack: HP Plus (HP level increases)
Shadow Zero: EFCT DFNS: Darkness (Protects against Darkness)
Shrieknip: DFNS PLS: Sound Waves (Defense against Sound Waves)
Silkspitter: DFNS PLS: Arthropods (Less damage from Arthropods)
Skeleton: Regeneration (Quick recovery from KO Status)
Skull Beast: DFNS PLS: Undeads (Less damage from Undead monsters)
Sky Dragon: DFNS PLS: Dragons (Less damage from Dragon monsters)
Slime: EFCT DFNS: Paralysis (Protects against Paralysis)
Specter: EFCT DFNS: Freeze (Protects against Freeze)
Spiny Cone: DFNS PLS: Oddities (Less damage from Oddity monsters)
Springball: Invincible (Enemy attacks will not damage you)
Stinger Bug: EFCT DFS: Poison (Protects against Poison)
Succubus: HP Drain (Absorb the enemy's damage points)
Teedie: EFCT PLS: Paralysis (Paralysis is added to attacks)
Tezla: DFNS PLS: Morphs (Less damage from Morph monsters)
Tomato Man: EFCT PLS: Flameburst (Flameburst is added to attacks)
Tonpole: DFNS PLS: Reptiles (Less damage from Reptile monsters)
Tyrannos: ATTK PLS: Arthropods (More damage to Arthropod monsters)
Wooding: ATTK PLS: Beasts (More damage to Beast monsters)
Zombine: ATTK PLS: Poison (Poison is added to attacks)
A7) MONSTER BY MONSTER
----------------------
This is where there will be full details on the pets, from their type, to
stats gains per level, to personal ratings on all the creatures.
+=+=+=+=+=+=+
+ B) PLANTS +
+=+=+=+=+=+=+
B1) PRODUCE
-----------
For the most part, when monsters level, they gain stats depending on what sort
of creature they are. However, their stats can also be adjusted with the use
of different produce. Each level, the monster will eat whatever is in its
feedbox (even if it isn't at the farm) and will gain (or lose) in the stats
that produce offers. Each monster can eat up to three pieces of produce per
level.
Produce by color:
Red Orange Yellow
--- ------ ------
Apricat Spiny Carrot Citrisquid
Diceberry Loquat-shoes Springanana
Peach Puppy Bumpkin Cornflower
Applesocks Honey Onion Fishy Fruit
Whalmato Orange'opus
Rocket Papaya
Green Blue Purple
----- ---- ------
Cabbadillo Heart Mint Sweet Moai
Squalphin Spade Basil Lillipods
Needlettuce Pine o'Clock Cherry Bombs
Boarmelon Gold Clover Orcaplant
Dialaurel Rhinoloupe Bellgrapes
White Black
----- -----
Garlicrown Mush-in-the-box
Conchurnip Toadstoolshed
Pear o' Heels
Mangolephant
Masked Potato
B2) PRODUCE AND STATS
---------------------
In the game, there is a wonderful produce encyclopedia which goes about
telling you the various effects that the plants have on your monsters; it
tells you what stats go up, how it effects their personality, and which stats
go down. A really nice thing, you'd think. Except for the fact that
apparently, the produce of the game encyclopedia is wrong. Very, very wrong.
Testing with the various fruits has shown that these numbers are not accurate,
and that in some cases, they're _completely_ wrong about which statistics the
plant touches on. Frustrating, to be sure!
Because of this level of incorrectness, the chart below has nothing to do with
what the game encyclopedia says. Instead, this is the result of preliminary
testing by one Benjamin Sperandio. Here, right from Benjamin Sperandio's
letter to me, is how he went about testing the various produce for the numbers
it gave:
----------------
First, let me explain the procedure I used:
I happened to have three different pets at the time: a Gold Chocobo, a Rabite,
and a Polter Box. First, I made sure each one had an empty feed box. Then, I
wrote down all their current stats (including their resist stats). Next, I
took each one out to gain experience and raised each one up by one level.
After that, I wrote down these new stats, the result of natural growth only.
Then, I reloaded the game from the moment I wrote down the initial stats,
before they went up a level. Next, I set up a procedure where I put a single
produce item in each feed box, taking note which pet is fed what. Next, I
leveled each pet up a level in turn and wrote down the new stats. Then, I
reloaded and repeated for each produce item. By carefully comparing the stats
of the same pet before and after going up a level, once with no food and
another with a single food item, it should be possible to get fairly accurate
results.
There were a few complications I had to take into account, however. For
instance, some produce are supposed to have negative stat modifiers. But the
only way these would show up in the results is either if a) the pet would have
gained a point in that stat naturally or b) if it was fed some other produce
first that would increase the stat. So, I tried to choose a pet that would
naturally go up a point in the stat in question. But on a few occations none
of my pets qualified. So, I had to feed them some other produce first, taking
note of the difference. All the while, I had to be careful to keep the natural
growth rates of each pet in mind. That was particularly important while
testing foods that supposed to give a fraction bonus, like 0.5...
There were a few occations where I questioned my results - it may have struck
me as odd, or I felt like I may have missed something. So, on some cases I did
a "re-test" by trying the produce again on a different pet. On each of the
four 'corrections' I have listed below, I double or triple checked the
results.
Finally, note that I have not been able to test the ToadstoolShed produce at
all. Simply put, I was never able to grow one. And even if I somehow could, I
would have a really hard time testing the tiny, tiny fraction of bonuses that
HonestLiar claims it gives. (How much patience would it take to test 1/8 of 1
point for multiple stats?!)
-------------------------
As of yet, I haven't gone and tested the produce more than this. However, what
little I have done seems to agree with what he has here. Therefore, for the
moment, I'll leave his chart as the definitive one. Perhaps at a later date,
I'll figure out a way to properly test all the fruits and make certain of
these numbers.
Abbreviations:
CHM: Charm (the effectiveness of the monster's status attacks)
DEF: Defense (the physical defense and 'armor' of the monster)
HP: Hit Points (the monster's physical hit points and poison defense)
LCK: Luck (affects the finding of rare items, eggs, and spirits)
MGC: Magic (defense against raw magical attacks)
POW: Power (the monster's raw strength for power attacks)
SKL: Skill (the monster's finesse and technical attacks)
SPR: Spirit (defense against status-affecting magics, like paralysis)
PRODUCE CHART
Produce Pow Skl Def Mgc HP Spr Chm Lck
Animal Meat.. 1 1 -1 -1 0 0 0 0
Applesocks... 0 2 0 0 0 0 1 0
Apricat...... 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0
Bellgrapes... 0 0 0 2 0 1 0 0
Boarmelon.... 1 1 0 0 0 1 -1 0
Bug Meat..... -1 1 0 0 0 1 -1 0
Bumpkin...... 1 0 0 0 0 1 0 0
Cabbadillo... 0 0 1 0 0 1 -1 0
Cherry Bombs. 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0
CitriSquid... 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 0
Conchurnip... 1 0 1 -1 0 0 0 0
Cornflower... 0 0 0 1 0 0 1 0
Dialaurel.... 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Diceberry.... 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Fishy Fruit.. 0 1 0 1 -1 0 1 0
Garlicrown... 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0
Gold Clover.. 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 2
Heart Mint... 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 0
Honey Onion.. -1 1 0 0 1 0 0 0
Lilipods..... 0 1 0 -1 1 0 0 0
Lizard Meat.. 0 0 1 -1 0 -1 1 0
Loquat-Shoes. 0 1 0 0 -1 0 1 0
Mangolephant. 1 0 0 0 2 0 0 0
Masked Potato 0 0 1 0 1 1 0 -1
Mush-in-a-Box 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Needlettuce.. 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0
Orange'opus.. 0 0 2 0 1 0 0 0
Orcaplant.... 0 1 0 1 0 0 0 0
Peach Puppy.. 1 1 0 0 0 0 0 0
Pear 'O Heals 1 0 1 0 0 -1 1 0
Pine 'O Clock 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 1
Rhinoloupe... 1 0 0 -1 1 1 0 0
Rocket Papaya 0 0 0 1 0 0 2 0
Spade Basil.. 0 0 0 0 0 1 0 0
Spiny Carrot. 0 -1 0 1 0 1 0 0
Springanana.. 0 0 0 0 1 0 0 0
Squalphin.... -1 0 0 1 0 0 0 1
Sweet Moai... 0 -1 1 1 0 0 0 0
Toadstoolshed 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0
Whalamato.... 0 0 -1 1 1 0 1 0
RESIST: Apparently, certain foods offer some resistances to attacks, as well
as numbers in stats. This is the resistance it offers, with the numbers
showing the degree it gives.
PRODUCE CHART
}----RESIST Modifiers---{
Produce Strike Slash Pierce Magic
Animal Meat.. 0 0.5 0 0
Applesocks... 0 0 0 0
Apricat...... 0 0 0 0
Bellgrapes... 0 0 0 0
Boarmelon.... 0 0 0 0
Bug Meat..... 0 0 0 0.5
Bumpkin...... 0 0 0 0
Cabbadillo... 0.5 0.5 0.5 -0.5
Cherry Bombs. 0 0 0 0
CitriSquid... 0 0 0 0
Conchurnip... 0 0 0 0
Cornflower... 0 0 0 0
Dialaurel.... 0 0 0 0.5
Diceberry.... 0 0 0 0
Fishy Fruit.. 0 0 0 0
Garlicrown... 0 0 0 0
Gold Clover.. 0 0 0 0
Heart Mint... 0 0 0 0
Honey Onion.. 0 0 0 0
Lilipods..... 0 0 0 0
Lizard Meat.. 0 0 0.5 0
Loquat-Shoes. 0 0 0 0
Mangolephant. 0 0 0 0
Masked Potato 0 0 0 0
Mush-in-a-Box 0 0 0 0
Needlettuce.. 0 0 0 0
Orange'opus.. 0 0 0 0
Orcaplant.... 0 0 0 0
Peach Puppy.. 0 0 0 0
Pear 'O Heals 0 0 0 0
Pine 'O Clock 0 0 0 0
Rhinoloupe... 0 0 0 0
Rocket Papaya 0 0 0 0
Spade Basil.. 0 0 0 0
Spiny Carrot. 0 0 0 0
Springanana.. 0 0 0 0
Squalphin.... 0 0 0 0
Sweet Moai... 0 0 0 0
Toadstoolshed 0.125 0.125 0.125 0.125
Whalamato.... 0 0 0 0
For the numbers as the Japanese guide gives them, check out the link to
Albatross's Ultimania translation. However, unfortunately, this seems to be
fairly inaccurate as well, in addition to leaving the Mangolephant out
completely. Still, it's worth the look; there is interesting information in
there!
B3) PERSONALITIES
-----------------
In addition to raising the monster's stats, different produce gives different
personalities. Each one of these is rated in a similar way to the stats,
although the actual numbers for them are hidden. The only way you can tell
your monster's personality is to pet them while they are grazing at the barn.
However, you can also get an idea of a monster's personality by the way they
act in battle.
Personality gain and loss seems to be random. When you feed your monster foods
that could make them manifest the personality, it may or may not take effect;
it's difficult to tell. However, apparently the personalities will come into
effect as soon as the foods are put in their box, rather than when they've
gone up in level. So feel free to drop off those fruits and then pet your
pets.
There are both good and bad monster traits. The 'good' traits make your
monster more effective in battle, while the bad ones make them... well... less
effective. According to Matthew Emirzian's Mastery Guide, the personalities
are as follows:
CLM=Calm
LON=Lonely
IND=Indecisive
FRI=Frendly
LAZ=Lazy
ARR=Arrogant
AGG=Aggressive
SCH=Scheming
Bad Traits:
Lazy - Your monster does almost nothing in battle.
Arrogant - Your monster rushes head first into battle.
Lonely - Your monster will cling to you in battle.
Indecisive - Your monster will have difficulty deciding which enemy to attack,
often leading to ineffective battling.
Good Traits:
Calm - Your monster attacks strategically instead of blindly.
Aggressive - Your monster will concentrate on one opponent instead of
wandering around attacking stupidly.
Friendly - Your monster will help you in attacking an opponent, and will
follow you in the battlefield towards an enemy.
Scheming - Your monster will stay back in battle and generally attack from a
distance.
NOTE: This is a preliminary testing of the various attitudes. However, this
seems to be how they affect the monster in battle. If someone has some proof
otherwise, or suspects they've seen their monster acting way off-base of those
personalities, let me know.
Plant | Plus to | Minus to
-------------------------------------------------
Applesocks | CLM++ IND++ | none
Apricat | CLM+ | none
Bellgrapes | SCH++ | FRI--
Boarmelon | LON+ | none
Bumpkin | AGG+ ARR+ SCH+ LAZ+ | none
Cabbadillo | FRI++ LON++ | none
Cherry Bombs | FRI+ | none
Citrisquid | SCH+ | none
Conchurnip | AGG+ ARR+ | none
Cornflower | AGG+ | CLM-
Dialaurel | AGG++ | CLM--
Diceberry | AGG+ | none
Fishy Fruit | none | SCH-
Garlicrown | none | ARR-
Gold Clover | FRI++ | SCH--
Heart Mint | none | LAZ-
Honey Onion | IND+ | none
Lilipods | CLM+ IND+ FRI+ LON+ | none
Loquat-shoes | SCH+ LAZ+ | none
Mangolephant | AGG++ ARR++ | none
Masked Potato | none | FRI-
Mush-in-the-box | none | none
Needlettuce | CLM+ | AGG-
Orangeo'pus | SCH++ LAZ++ | none
Orcaplant | SCH+ | FRI-
Peach Puppy | FRI+ | SCH-
Pear o'heels | ARR+ | none
Pine o'clock | none | AGG- CLM- SCH- FRI-
Rhinoloupe | none | CLM-
Rocket Papaya | CLM++ | AGG--
Spade Basil | none | LON-
Spiny Carrot | CLM+ IND+ | none
Springanana | none | IND-
Squalphin | FRI+ LON+ | none
Sweet Moai | LAZ+ | none
Toadstoolshed | none | none
Whalamato | none | AGG-
B4) MEATS
---------
In addition to produce, you can also feed your monster the meat of various
creatures. This meat can also be used to catch eggs, along with produce.
However, very few meats actually give any sort of bonuses to the monster at
all. Those meats are mentioned in the list above, but reproduced here for
posterity: Animal Meat, Bug Meat, and Lizard Meat. If any of the other meats
have any use at all in feeding the monster, it's certainly not in
stat-gaining. Strange, that Squaresoft would put in so many meats without any
use to them at all. It makes me wonder whether they simply sent the game out
too early after programming, and they _were_ supposed to do something.
Oh well. I suppose we shall never know.
B5) SEEDS AND PLANTING
----------------------
The seeds that you plant have a direct link with the produce you get. However,
so does the day that the seeds are planted, and, I suspect, the mana levels of
the orchard/Trent, itself. For instance: a crooked (red) seed will almost
always grow red produce, and will grow rarer and/or more red if the day is
Salamander, and the Salamander level of the orchard is high (a good reason to
put the Mana Tree right next to your orchard!). Red fruits are Salamander,
Blue are Undine, and Green are Dryad. White and Black are Wisp and Shade,
respectively, though neither of them have a day attributed to them. I'm not
yet positive of the other colors, but I believe each one has a corresponding
day.
Mixing seed colors acts like mixing paint does. For instance: a red (crooked)
and blue (round) seed planted together has chances of growing red, blue, or
purple fruit. Likewise, if a yellow (oblong) and a red (crooked) seed are
planted, you have a good chance at getting orange fruit, as well as the red
and yellow stuff. If a green (big), orange (small) or long (purple) seed are
planted together, you will sometimes get black fruit as well as the other
colors (always a Mush-In-The-Box, in my personal experience). Planting a spiny
seed (rainbow color) results in a random growing of fruits, almost always
rare, according to the day and mana level of the place. This is probably the
easiest way to get rare fruits, even with the rareness of spiny seeds in
general. Also, planting a spiny seed and the seed of the color you're wanting
(crooked seed for rare red produce, round seed for rare blue, etc.) gives a
much better chance of getting rare fruit of the kind you're looking for,
particularly if it's planted on the day of the fruit's spirit.
For those of you who are trying to get spiny seeds for this reason, I suggest
the following way: find a place where lullabuds are fairly powerful (a new
game+ on the road might do it, or planting a lot of mana near it). Bring a
Polter Box, and start hacking on them. You'll find that they'll give up a
fairly good number of spiny seeds, as well as some of the other harder-to-get
seed colors, in particular 'flat'. It won't give you gallons of them, but it's
certainly better than the one or two that you might get from Trent within six
hours!
An easier way, as reported by Myst Erik Try's FAQ! If you have a Polter Box
with you, the easiest way to collect spiny seeds is to go at the _lowest_
possible level of Shrieknips, Malboro, and Lullabuds (low-level Lullabuds will
likely be easier to find; just go to the road). Compared to the 6% chance
you'll have every other level of getting spiny seeds (and the 6% chance of
getting flat seeds with it), you'll have a whopping _12.5%_ chance. There's no
chance for flat seeds, but if you're not hunting for those, obviously go with
this one.
Toadstoolsheds! One of the most-hunted fruits, due to the multitude of
stat-gains, and the complete lack of any losses they give. However, these are
also the rarest of the fruits, and it's nearly impossible to get them.
According to Aaron Ramussa: I've still not gotten a Toadstoolshed. I remember
reading once that a Big seed Spiny seed combo has a 2% chance of making them.
In my own personal plantings, I have multiple (read, four times) received one
with a spiny seed/long seed combination (though I wasn't aware of the days),
and with low mana levels at my home. While other combinations may work, I've
finally settled on the fact that long+spiny=#1. Of course, YMMV.
UPDATE INFO
------------
11/05/00
- Version 1.0
- First version of the FAQ.
11/09/00
- Version 1.5
- Added more Synchros to the list. Only missing one, now
- Finally got the info for the Chimera Beast and Tyrannos eggs
- Some slight spelling and aesthetic adjustments. Unimportant stuff
- Added a second 'note' in 'Egg Locations'
01/24/01
- Version 2.0
- Finally pulled my nose out of other RPGs to do some minor work
- Finally completed the Synchro list!
- More spelling adjustments. I really need a good spellchecker
- Added to the 'still to come' section
- First work done on the 'newborn monster stats' section.
- Corrected 'personal' plantings section: long seed, not big
- Added another successful 'toadstoolshed' planting to my notes
01/25/01
- Version 2.1
- Several minor spelling corrections
- Corrected the 'index' file and 'version'. Forgetful, aren't I?
- Added a 'note' to produce and stats
02/21/01
- Version 3.0
- Ultimania translations for meats and fruits. THANKS ALBATROSS!
- Adjusted the 'monster stats' list into a much neater chart
- Added more monster stats
- Correction to the 'fast eggs' note: demon eggs are actually slow
- Added a note on selling eggs to the egglist text
- Added to the 'still to come'
- Rearranged the egglist, for ease of reading
03/21/01
- Version 3.1
- Started a new+ game, by the 'world' FAQ. Thanks guys!
- Slight correction in the Tomato Man's location
03/31/01
- Version 3.5
- Added more monsters to the 'stats' chart
- Finished editing the produce stats chart
- Added a note to the monster stats chart
- Produce list gained the 'resistances' and the +/- from Ultimania
- Soon to come: Monster By Monster section
- Added a general consensus question in 'Requests'. Please answer!
- Added to the 'still to come'
- Finally corrected the misspelling on MY OWN NAME in the title. You'd think I
would have noticed this before now.... laugh at will
11/05/01
- Version 4.0
- Finally pulled out LoM again and got back updating!
- Corrected the location of Guri The Goblin
- Added a new egg location to my map: Duma Desert!
- Added detail to locating some of the Demi-humans
- More monster stats!
- Directions to some of the egg locations
- Actually getting numbers for meat and produce, soon to be added
- Added a chart for stat gains. May be removed when I get my Monster By
Monster section finished and in.
- Added to 'still to come' and removed the consensus question
03/06/02
- Still version 4.0
- Uploaded the version to GameFAQs after a loooooong vacation
03/02/06
- Version 5.0
- OH EM GEE! LOOK! I'm not dead! And neither is this FAQ!
- Added all the egg descriptions
- Finished the egg locations' directions
- All monster stats, now
- Tidied the index and the titles for easier reading
- Many additions, confirmations, re-writes on now-proven details
- Completely reformatted to match submission guidelines. This unfortunately
clipped a few of the charts down, but no info was lost
06/17/06
- Version 6.0
- Finally got a spellchecking text program. FAQ is now completely spellchecked
- Got some information out of Myst Erik Try's walkthroughs to supplant my own
info: mana levels and item drops for spiny seeds
- Also got a Gameshark code to allow me to test all the produce through (yay!)
- Added monsters that had been missing from my lists: Gray Ox, Needlebeak
- Slight reformatting; I have an actual character-counter, now
02/04/07
- Version 6.1
- Look! Rabbite! Special thanks for a MU* friend of mine who ANSII'd it up!
- Email changed to reflect my new email
03/27/2007
- Version 6.1.1
- IM added for those who want to contact me directly.
STILL TO COME
-------------
While I don't know how regular updates will be, this is where I have written
the additions planned for this list. I will add things with updates, as well
as getting them worked-on, so keep track of what you would like to see!
-Pet ratings (personal opinion)
-Working out the selling price for raised monsters. Is there a pattern?
-Re-checking the produce numbers to make certain of their accuracy
REQUESTS
--------
These are requests by me and other people, both, for things they would like to
see added to this FAQ. If you have anything you would like to add, either a
request or information, mail it to [email protected] with the information,
as well as the name you would like to be known by. Plus, if you would like
your e-mail added into the acknowledgement, let me know that as well, and I'll
accommodate.
-Anything written in 'Still To Come'
-Any missing information in my lists and charts
-The exact numbers when it comes to monster personality
-Any information at all on the effects of meat on a monster (aside from the
few already up)
-Any information on pets and produce not mentioned in this FAQ.
THANKS TO...
-----------
St.Ajora: For the synchro of the Succubus (and for the Chobin Hood, though I'd
already managed to get that one)
Aaron Ramussa: For the Synchro of the Tyrannos, Tomato Man, Goblin, and
Sahagin. Also for the suggestion on how to get a toadstoolshed and other
planting suggestions.
Matthew Emirzian: For letting me quote his Legend Of Mana Mastery Guide. Check
it out at http://www.gamefaqs.com/console/psx/file/legend_of_mana_mastery.txt
Earle The Tomato Man: For the exact locations of all the demi-humans.
Anthony Nelson: For the Narcissos' Synchro effect.
Albatross: For all the information he managed to garner from the Ultimania's
guide (the foremost Japanese game-book producer), and the permission to use
his information in my FAQ. Check out what other stuff he's found!
http://www.geocities.com/xo_pitseleh/lom5.html
Frederic Desroches/Anthony Nelson: For writing a wonderful world-map FAQ,
which allowed me to have a much better range of pets to experiment with.
Thanks you two! And check out the lovely FAQ itself:
http://db.gamefaqs.com/console/psx/file/legend_of_mana_map_a.txt
(FYI: I used Plan 4)
Matt Nadolny ([email protected]): For giving me the exact location of the
egg in the Duma Desert.
Even Staves ([email protected]): For pointing out a flaw in my
directions to get to Fernando the Narcissus. The flaw is: they didn't work.
*cough* Corrections made. Also for reminding me that you need a space in your
stable to get the demi-humans, and not just 'no pet with you'.
Nanami Tendo ([email protected]): For giving me the final clue to
unlocking Tikkle's quest, so I was able to get the last Demi-human. Thanks!
I needed that!
Benjamin Sperandio ([email protected]): For his awesome work on the monster
charts, double-checking the numbers. I couldn't have gotten this far without
him, and without his letter, I might never have picked up the FAQ again. You
should all thank him muchly!
HonestLiar: For explaining how the produce numbers worked, making testing and
re-testing much easier. His Produce guide can be found at GameFAQs as well.
Look it up; there's fantastic concepts for feeding procedures in there.
Myst Erik Try: For his incredible FAQs of Monster Drops (which gave me the
numbers needed for the spiny and flat seed finding), his Land Placement Guide
(which confirmed to me that the distance from home is the thing affecting
monster appearance, rather than the amount of mana), and his Gameshark codes
(which allowed me to test all the produce thoroughly without having to go and
grow every single thing fifty or so times). *BIG* thank you for your great
work, Sir! Check his stuff out at GameFAQs:
http://db.gamefaqs.com/console/psx/file/legend_of_mana_monsterdrop.txt and
http://db.gamefaqs.com/console/psx/file/legend_of_mana_af_event.txt.
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