_______    ____    _____        ____    ____     __     _____
|__   __|  /    \  |  __ \      /    \  |  __|   /  \   |  __ \
   | |    |  /\  | | |__) |    |  /\_|  | |     / /\ \  | |__) |
   | |    | |  | | |  ___/     | | ___  | |__  | |__| | |  _  /
   | |    | |  | | | |         | ||_  | |  __| |  __  | | | \ \
   | |    |  \/  | | |         |  \/ /  | |__  | |  | | | |  \ \
   |_|     \____/  |_|          \___/   |____| |_|  |_| |_|   \_\
 _____       __     _       _       _     _           ___
|  __ \     /  \   | |     | |     \ \   / /         / _ \
| |__) |   / /\ \  | |     | |      \ \_/ /         /_/ \ \
|  _  /   | |__| | | |     | |       \   /              / /
| | \ \   |  __  | | |     | |        | |              / /
| |  \ \  | |  | | | |___  | |___     | |             / /__
|_|   \_\ |_|  |_| |_____| |_____|    |_|            |_____|

===============================================================================
Table of Contents
===============================================================================
[INTRO] Introduction
[QUEST] Frequently Asked Questions
[PARTS] Equipment Guide
[TRACK] Track Summaries
[CHEAT] Cheats and Codes
[VERSN] Version History
[COPYR] Copyright
[CONTC] Contact Information

Navigation tip: Press Ctrl and F to bring down a search bar. Then type in the
name of the section you're looking for - like [VERSN] for the Version History.

===============================================================================
Introduction                                                         [INTRO]
===============================================================================
As Mark Twain might say, reports of my walkthrough-writing death have been
greatly exaggerated. It's hard to believe I went two full months without
working on an FAQ (except for a new text dump and a couple of updates). If
you've been wondering why I've been doing so little lately, I've been dealing
with more pressing real-life issues, uploading my first videos on YouTube, and
working on my Super Mario Bros.-style fan games (Marioy 2 and Darunia-Saria
2008). Both are real fun! The latter makes fun of the presidential election in
a hilarious but profoundly offensive way. If you're interested, you can
download them at www.mfgg.net/?act=resdb¶m=02&c=2&id=16558 and
www.fileplanet.com/193519/190000/fileinfo/Darunia-Saria-2008, respectively.
Anyway, I'll probably be producing more guides in the next month or two, but I
doubt I'll ever be churning out content the way I was in May and August.

Top Gear Rally 2 takes a while to get going, but if you can handle the learning
curve, it's one of the more complex racing games for the Nintendo 64. The cars
are very detailed but often blocky and polygonal, and backgrounds appear
blurry. The objects and buildings around the course look pretty good, although
they're not particularly detailed. The mud that splashes onto your back bumper
when you drive through a bog is a nice touch, as are the mud splatters and
cracks that appear on the windshield (although both disappear after a few
seconds). Overall, graphics are pretty good for a game of this time. The rock
MIDIs that play in the background during races aren't great, but it's better
than what you often heard in Nintendo 64 sports games. The music is very quiet,
but you can turn it up on the pause menu if you really want to. The music on
the menu screen is highly compressed and doesn't sound very good, although
listening to "Big bob bam, bo big bang dong" (or something like that) is
hilariously awful. The revving of engines and other sound effects are pretty
good. Different cars sound different, so that's kind of neat. The controls are
identical to those of most racing games, so they shouldn't take long to pick
up. The steering and skidding feel pretty realistic. The computer drivers' AI
is pretty good; opponents are relatively unpredictable and will frequently
make driving errors. As you progress further into the game, you'll unlock more
parts and better cars. Some parts are pure upgrades over the old ones; others
must be adjusted to accommodate each course. New equipment costs money, so
knowing how to manage your money plays almost as big a role in winning as
keeping your car on the road. The extremely high frequency of equipment
failures, especially for tires, is annoying, even though they affect computer
players as much as you. Top Gear Rally 2 is one of the hardest racing games
I've ever played. This is no Cruis'n USA cakewalk. You may be playing this
game for 15 or 20 hours if you want to unlock all the cars and win trophies in
all the races. However, I doubt you'll play it enough to get that far. One more
problem is that you have to have a Controller Pak to save game progress unless
you're playing on an emulator. Overall, Top Gear Rally 2 is an OK game. It
doesn't have all that much replay value, considering that it has just four
tracks, but it'll keep you playing for a while. It could've been a lot better
than this.

One more thing before the guide gets started: I assume you're playing 1-Player
Championship Mode for most purposes.

===============================================================================
Frequently Asked Questions                                           [QUEST]
===============================================================================
Q: What are the controls?
A: The controls in Top Gear Rally 2 are similar to those of most racing games:

A: Accelerate
B: Brake
C-Down: E-Brake
R: Upshift (only when using a manual transmission)
Z: Downshift (only when using a manual transmission)
C-Left, C-Right: Change camera angle
C-Up: Check rear-view mirror
Control Stick: Steer
START: Pause game

If you don't like these controls for some reason, you can adjust them under the
Options menu.

Q: What is rally racing?
A: Rally racing differs significantly from conventional motorsports. In rally
racing, drivers are competing against the clock, not positions on the track.
Each car starts about three seconds apart, but the winning driver is not
necessarily the first to cross the finish line (like in NASCAR, for example).
Instead, the driver with the best time wins. Each race is divided into a
specific number of legs (often four). Finishing well in a leg will reward you
with Sponsorship Credits and Championship Points. After the final leg, the car
with the best cumulative time will receive a gold trophy, and the second- and
third-place cars will also get trophies. These are worth a lot of SC and CP.

Q: What are Sponsorship Credits and Championship Points?
A: Sponsorship Credits means money. Simple as that. You spend Sponsorship
Credits when you buy new parts for your car. The more sponsors your team has,
the more Sponsorship Credits you'll earn for a good finish. Championship Points
are like driver points in NASCAR or Formula One racing. By accumulating them,
however, you'll unlock new parts to purchase and be able to access better cars
on the Drivers Board (Team Selection) screen. Plus, you'll earn more sponsors
for your car.

Q: Can I race an event more than once?
A: Of course you can! You can run each race as many times as you'd like in an
effort to accumulate more money and points.

Q: Should I change teams every time a new one becomes available?
A: Not every time. When you change teams, you lose 20% of your previously
earned Sponsorship Credits and any parts you've purchased. Championship Points
will be unaffected. You should make the switch only when the new car will be a
significant improvement over your current one.

Q: Why are the tracks different?
A: There are only four basic track settings in this game, but each leg of every
event is very distinct. That's because every leg is constructed of the same
obstacles and corners placed in different, unpredictable orders. Some turns may
be mirrored or run backwards, for example.

Q: What courses can have snowy weather?
A: Farmland and Mountain. Rain, fog, and darkness can appear anywhere.

Q: Why do my tires blow all the time?
A: To some extent, this problem affects all players in this game. Your tires
die A LOT. The same goes for computer players, too. Some surfaces, like the
gravel road at the mountain courses, will blow a tire every 10 seconds or so.
Try using a tire model other than "Stock;" these lines are versatile but have
horrible durability. Also, remember that leaving the road reduces tire life,
as does turning very sharply. If you hear brakes squealing or a skidding sound,
you're probably doing something that's bad for your tires.

Q: I lose control after changing my tire. What's wrong?
A: If you try to turn too sharply right after a tire change, you'll often lose
control or spin out, especially in snow. Steer gently and you'll be OK. Also,
if you can, try to avoid changing tires at the bottom of a hill; it's tough to
get back up to speed and easy to lose control.

Q: What's the difference between the B-button brake and the C-Down "E-brake?"
A: The E-brake tends to slow your car a little less abruptly than the
conventional brake. Experiment with both brakes and see which works best for
your driving style and your car's braking setup. The difference is only
marginal.

Q: Why does my engine keep overheating?
A: This is pretty normal, even though you'll hear an unpleasant sound when your
engine becomes too hot. An overheated engine will run approximately 1 MPH
slower than a cool one. Let off on the accelerator in turns if you really need
to cool your engine, but I wouldn't worry about it.

Q: What's the most important part to upgrade?
A: Upgrading most parts in this game will provide only a negligible increase in
performance or durability. However, equipping the proper tires for the current
surface and weather will help immensely. Check the Equipment Guide for more
information.

Q: Is there any advantage to using a manual transmission?
A: Not really. Your acceleration and top speed won't be any better (or worse)
with a manual. Using an automatic transmission is recommended, since you won't
have as many things to worry about and fiddle with. Select the manual
transmission only if you want added challenge - and in this game, there's more
than enough challenge to go around. By the way, you can choose between an
automatic and manual transmission before each race, and it won't cost any time
in the Support Van.

Q: What's the best steering sensitivity to use?
A: "Loose" requires more effort to turn; settings on the "Tight" end of the
graph are more sensitive. This selection should be based purely on personal
preference and driving style (and the kind of controller you're using). A
tighter-handling car is often preferable if your Nintendo 64 controller is old
and worn out (maybe from doing so many "Mini Turbos" in Mario Kart 64!) or if
you're at a track that has a lot of sharp turns (especially Mountain and later
Jungle courses). If you're playing on an emulator and using a keyboard, you
might prefer something on the "Loose end." Also, slower cars will be best off
with something that requires more force to steer, and different brake models
might work better with different sensitivity levels. Again, your selection
won't count against your allotted time in the equipment van.

Q: Should I try to block faster opponents?
A: While getting bumped from behind by a faster car will give you a nice
temporary boost of speed, it'll also cause a bit of damage. Most of the time,
it's best to yield to faster traffic.

Q: What race is hardest?
A: Jaipur Heights in the World Cup class. Most of the races are snowy, and it's
hard to keep up with the opponents in the snow, even with a fully-upgraded
high-level car and optimal settings. Also, all of the legs in this circuit are
extremely long. As a general rule, though, I think Desert courses are the
easiest, followed by Mountain, Farmland, and Jungle courses, which are the
most challenging.

Q: Why do so many parts break in the Tutorial Race?
A: You're driving the weakest car in the game with shoddy equipment, so many of
your parts will die after one splash of water or a couple of brushes with the
wall. Also, you're not very experienced yet, so you'll probably make some
mistakes. And most of all, the Tutorial Race runs through one of the most
difficult sections of terrain in the game.

Q: What good is the ARSG Rally School?
A: For one thing, it's a good way to practice traversing unfamiliar obstacles
in a controlled environment. Also, if you complete all of the license events,
you'll earn a lot of Championship Points without having to do any actual
racing.

Q: What difference will I notice between the different classes?
A: The later cups are generally longer and harder, and you'll be able to earn
more Sponsorship Credits and Championship Points in the higher classes. The
first two classes, Amateur and Sprint, are simple. National Class introduces
your first really bad weather conditions. The World Cup is full of ultra-long
events, so setting up your car properly is paramount. The Rally Cup's events
aren't quite as long as the World Cup's, but the corners and obstacles are
simply nasty.

Q: How many teams are available in this game?
A: 14. A few things to keep in mind before I list them all: Cars with a high
horsepower will be faster at getting off the line. A good handling rating means
your car will be easier to handle through turns and won't spin out as much.
Top speed is approximate, but it's a useful indicator for comparison purposes.
"Wins" is an approximate overall rating for the team's performance. The number
of sponsors for a car will increase as you earn more Championship Points.

                           HP  Handle  Top Speed
 1. Sport Serro            83     70      77
 2. Twin Racing           113     50      83
 3. Midnight Motors       136     40      89
 4. Lariat                168     54      92
 5. Vortek                192     58      87
 6. Tri Lariat            219     64      87
 7. Quadra                235     68      95
 8. Argon Motors          241     54      97
 9. Super Sport Serro     301     72      97
10. Argon Focal           323     85      98
11. Midnight Talon        364     73     101
12. Subaru Impreza        389     76     105
13. Mitsubishi Lancer     401     67     113
14. Toyota Corolla        401     58     115

Q: What's the best car in the game?
A: Probably the Toyota Corolla, but you might also want to give the Mitsubishi
Lancer a spin.

Q: How do I go in reverse?
A: From a stopped position, hold Down and the accelerator. You'll never do this
unless you get stuck, though.

Q: What other notes and tips do you have for this game?
A: Here are a few observations and strategies that don't fit anywhere else:

* My most important tip of all: Save often! In particular, be sure to keep at
least two save files or save states active at all times, and ALWAYS save your
game before changing teams or buying an expensive new part for your car.
* Between legs of an event, you'll be allotted 10 game seconds for changing
parts and equipment. If you go over the time limit, that time will be tacked
onto your race time. It's very often advantageous to adjust your tires for the
conditions, but you'll usually be assessed the penalty if you try to put in a
new gearbox (which could take 15 seconds).
* Different navigators have different voices. Some are female or have British
accents.
* Speaking of navigators, it's a good idea to pay attention to him (or her, if
appropriate). Your navigator will always alert you before a dangerous condition
or difficult corner.
* My favorite camera angle is the one that's most zoomed out; this lets you
view more of the track ahead and helps you tell when opposing cars are running
closely behind you. Experiment with different camera settings to find the one
you like the best.
* Remember that you can drive right through another car when it's changing its
tire (you'll hear a jack sound when that happens). Keep this in mind on the
gravel mountain roads.
* You can't buy new parts in the Support Van between legs of a race; only at
the start or end of an event.
* Remember that it's possible to quit an event in progress (just press B from
the main screen). You won't lose any Sponsorship Credits or Championship Points
for doing so.
* If your tires, brakes, or suspension become damaged, your car will tend to
turn toward the side of the part that broke.
* Fog and darkness reduce visibility, so you might want to slow down more at
corners when racing in such conditions.
* By default, the Subaru Impreza is equipped with all-wheel drive (of course!).
However, front-wheel drive is usually best in adverse conditions in this game.
* Most of the time, the banner in the town in Farmland courses says "Farmer's
Market." However, it'll advertise a "Winter Festival" when the weather is
snowy.

===============================================================================
Equipment Guide                                                      [PARTS]
===============================================================================
In this section, I explain how modifying each part available in the Support Van
will affect your car's performance. I don't list every part available in the
game, since different parts are available on different cars, and each upgrade
may affect each car differently. For most items, try to maximize horsepower
(which makes your car faster) and durability (making a part stronger and more
resistant to damage) while minimizing weight (helping your car ascend hills).

---Shocks---
Good suspension will significantly improve performance and handling on some
road conditions. Usually the most expensive suspension systems will work best,
although certain models perform best only under particular conditions.


---Stabilizer---
The stabilizer isn't immediately available on all cars. A good stabilizer helps
your car's handling, although this shouldn't be your most important upgrade,
especially for slower cars.


---Muffler---
Better mufflers provide a slight horsepower boost while reducing weight.
They're also more durable, so if your muffler keeps dying while driving through
the quagmire in the jungle, you'd be wise to buy a better muffler.


---Filter---
This is just like the muffler.


---Radiator---
Another part where upgrades boost HP and durability while reducing weight. A
good radiator also makes your engine less prone to overheating. Still, unless
you're going to be driving through the bog, it shouldn't be a top priority.


---Intercooler---
You can't buy an intercooler until you have a turbo for your engine. Buying one
will boost horsepower but won't make your engine any less prone to overheating.


---Turbo---
The turbocharger, an optional component not always available, can substantially
increase horsepower.


---Dump Valves---
As with intercoolers, you can't purchase dump valves without a turbo engine.
These tend to provide more of a performance boost than intercooler upgrades.


---Gearbox---
There are three different gearboxes available. Medium gearboxes are the default
on all cars and are recommended for most settings. The speed-oriented gearbox
is useful mainly at the Mountain course, while the acceleration-based models
may be worth a try at Rally Class-level events at the Jungle. New gearboxes are
expensive, so I wouldn't buy a new one unless you have a top-level car are
sitting on wads of money. Also, it takes a LONG time to change gearboxes
between legs of an event.


---Drive Train---
In real life, all-wheel drive often improves handling in inclement weather. In
this game, however, front-wheel drive is best on most (but not all) cars. Hint:
The more it costs, the better it will be.


---Brakes---
Trust the Midas touch... OK, that was stupid. Improved brakes will provide a
slight increase in car control and substantially boost durability. If you
select brakes where rear torque is higher than the front, the back of the car
tends to slide away from you in turns. Brakes with a higher front braking
rating will feel a little more balanced; these models are also, in general,
more durable (and expensive).


---Tires---
By far the most important component in the game. If you pick the wrong tires
for the road and the current condition, you won't be able to get much
performance out of your car. Whenever you change teams, your first priority
should be to purchase tires engineered for pavement, rain, dirt, and, in the
higher classes, snow.

Pick a RoadSlicks or Tarmax model for dry courses with good paved roads, like
Mountain or Farmland.

In snowy conditions, select ProG IceGrip, SubZero, or Blizzard - whichever
available tire has the highest "Snow" rating.

On paved wet roads, choose a tire from the RainHydro line.

TD2 Stock tires aren't great for much of anything, but they're OK for cash-
starved beginners and when racing at Farmland events.

Chali TrailBlazer is by far the best option for Jungle and Desert events.


---Computer---
The in-car computer is an optional component that can substantially boost
horsepower while adding little weight. It's pretty pricey, though. If your car
needs more pep, a computer or a computer upgrade is often the way to go.

===============================================================================
Track Summaries                                                      [PARTS]
===============================================================================
I'm not going to hold your hand through every corner and straightaway like I do
in my Formula One guides; instead, I'm going to help familiarize some of the
more common and dangerous obstacles found at each type of course. Most of the
events that make your navigator say "Caution!" are listed here, plus a few
other locations of note.

------Mountain------

*Twin Hairpins*
One of the hardest turns in the game appears on some mountain legs. A sharp
hairpin is immediately followed by a second. If the first turn is uphill, you
won't need to brake until you begin the turn. On downhill hairpins, however,
you'll need to brake heavily before the turn, especially if you're driving a
fast car.

*The Sharp Turnoff*
This spot gets a lot of beginners. Watch for the neon arrow sign (the kind you
see in construction zones) and prepare to veer off the road onto the gravel
path. If the road is downhill, it'll be particularly easy to miss. If you keep
going past the sign, you'll slam into a barrier and lose A LOT of time.

*The Gravel Road*
I hate this spot. No matter how well you drive, it eats up tires rapidly - even
with durable models. You'll often lose three or four tires down the longest
gravel roads, but at least it affects computer-controlled cars as much as you.

*The Creek*
The creek crossing isn't very dangerous - as long as you don't hit one of the
jagged rocks in the water. If you hit one, you'll usually end up ruining an
important part, costing valuable horsepower or handling ability. Also, in snow,
it's often hard to tell where the road on the other side is.


------Jungle------

*The Creek*
These are similar to the mountain creeks, although the jungle creeks are
rockier and will never freeze over in winter.

*The Bog*
When the road goes into the swamp, you'll usually kill at least a part or two
- sometimes something cosmetic, like an on-screen indicator, but very often
you'll break a piece of equipment that will affect your performance, like a
muffler or radiator. If you regularly lose parts when slogging through the
quagmire, you would be wise to buy a more durable version of that part.

*S-Turn Cavern*
This resembles the S-turn sequence at the Desert course, although this section
requires little braking. You can often slide through with little loss of speed
if you're a skilled driver with a car that handles well.

*Roundabouts*
Roundabouts aren't terribly tricky to deal with; it doesn't matter whether you
take the left or right fork. Keep in mind that these are usually followed by
another roundabout and that tires often seem to die in the vicinity of
roundabouts.

*City Sharp Turn*
Here you must veer from a nice wide city street onto a narrow alley at a sharp
90-degree angle. Brake some as you begin your slide to avoid losing control.
It's tough to avoid hitting the wall and sustaining a bit of damage, though.

*The Shortcut*
Right before a certain tight, sweeping corner, you can quickly veer off through
a gap in the fence, saving some valuable time. Watch a computer driver to see
how to do this.

*Obstructed View Zone*
At some jungle legs, you'll pass through a section where the road is obstructed
by branches and leaves. They won't slow you down, but they do make it harder to
see where you're going. Pay close attention to your navigator and you should be
OK. You won't face any sharp turns during this section (fortunately).

*The Ancient Temple*
As with the church at the farm course, opponents will slow substantially at
this turn, which can safely be taken at full speed. I guess they're too busy
sightseeing. If you can handle the uneven road, this is a very good place to
pass.


------Farmland------

*Overpass*
Part of the road goes under a tunnel. This section can be difficult, because
usually you're going downhill on a snaking road. Slow down a bit and things
should turn out OK, although reckless drivers may smash into the side and lose
a lot of time.

*Church Corner*
A long sweeping curve goes by the church here, often near the beginning of a
leg. It's not difficult and requires no braking or deceleration. However,
computer cars will brake heavily here, allowing you to pass with ease. Of
course, maybe it's because they're just being more pious...

*Mill Corner*
When you reach the mill, watch out; you'll have to deal with a sharp 90-degree
turn. Tap the brakes during the corner to help stay on the road.

*Creekside Highway*
This is an elevated dirt road along a creek. It's really not too tough, but if
you blow a tire or if you're using road tires, your lack of grip might cause
you to slide into the water at the cost of a lot of time.


------Desert------

*The S-Turn*
This nasty S-shaped turn is flanked by jagged rocks. If you brake heavily
enough for the first turn, you'll be able to maintain control and accelerate
through the second part of the corner.

*The Railroad Crossing*
Never try to beat a train. Brake to about 40 MPH before reaching the tracks, or
you'll kill multiple tires.

*Roundabout*
See Jungle.

===============================================================================
Cheats and Codes                                                     [CHEAT]
===============================================================================
Unless otherwise specified, each of the following codes should be entered at
the main menu, and all of the directions refer to the Control Pad. Enter a code
correctly and the game will tell you. If you don't like what a code does, just
enter it a second time to disable it. I should note that the Spinning World
code didn't work for me.

*Cylinder Tires: C-Up, Z, Right, Down, Right
*Giant Car: R, C-Right, R, Left, Up.
*Intoxicated AI Cars: C-Right, C-Right, Right, Right, Down
*Maximum Championship Points In Support Van: L, C-Up, Left, L, L
*No Damage or Failures: L, Z, Start, Up, Up.
*No Depth View: Z, C-Right, R, Up, Right
*Real Hills: L, Z, Left, Up, Start
*Shadow Racer: C-Up, Z, Right, Up, Z
*Speed Based Aspect Ratio: Z, C-Left, L, Up, Right
*Spinning World: R, C-Right, R, Up, Left
*Toxic Waste Dump: C-Right, C-Right, R, L, Up
*Upside-Down World: C-Up, Z, Start, Up, and Down
*Volcano Valley: C-Left, Z, R, L, Down

*High-Res Mode
This code makes the graphics look slightly better, but it won't work if you
haven't installed the Expansion Pak in the slot on top of your Nintendo 64.
From the title screen, press C-Left, C-Left, Left, L, and L before the demo
begins.

===============================================================================
Version History                                                      [VERSN]
===============================================================================
11- 2-08 |  0.1    |  1KB | Started basic framework.
11- 3-08 |  0.15   |  3KB | Did very little.
11- 4-08 |  0.25   |  9KB | Began parts list.
11- 5-08 |  0.3    | 12KB | Worked on parts list.
11- 6-08 |  0.4    | 16KB | Made some general progress.
11- 7-08 |  0.45   | 18KB | Worked on review.
11- 8-08 |  0.55   | 22KB | Made some good progress.
11- 9-08 |  0.6    | 24KB | Did a little. 
11-10-08 |  0.7    | 27KB | Did more stuff.
11-11-08 |  0.75   | 28KB | Getting close to completion.
11-12-08 |  0.9    | 32KB | Verified cheats and started proofreading guide.
11-13-08 |  1.0    | 32KB | Finished guide.

===============================================================================
Copyright                                                            [COPYR]
===============================================================================
(c) 2008 Vinny Hamilton. All rights reserved.

All trademarks mentioned in this guide are copyrights of their respective
holders.

You can print this guide out for your personal use.
You can download this guide to your computer for your personal use.
You can translate this guide into a foreign language (British, Southern,
Australian, and New Yorker are not considered foreign languages) and post the
translation on your Web site as long as you ask permission first.
You can post this guide on your Web site as long as you give proper credit AND
you don't change a single letter, number, or symbol (not even a tilde).
Remember that the latest version will always be available at GameFAQs.com, but
don't count on there being frequent (if any) updates.
You can't post this guide on your Web site and then say you wrote the guide
yourself.
You can't post this guide on Web sites that contain (or have links to sites
that contain) explicit depictions of naked humans (also known as pornography),
racism, gambling, or flattery of totalitarian regimes.
You can't post this guide on your Web site if you're going to change anything
in this guide that took me so many hours to write.

If you don't comply with these guidelines, your hard drive will be reformatted
inexplicably and you will suffer from constipation for the rest of your life.
Heed this warning.

===============================================================================
Contact Information                                                  [CONTC]
===============================================================================
If you have any questions or comments about this guide, please send an e-mail
to [email protected]. That's zero-zero-two, by the way. Remember that not
all e-mail messages will be read. Please follow these guidelines:

Do include "Top Gear Rally 2" in the subject line.
Do send polite suggestions for ways to make this walkthrough better.
Do tell me about any errors or omissions you find.
Do send information about any glitches, tricks, or codes you find in this game
that aren't mentioned in my guide..
Do ask any questions you have about Top Gear Rally 2 gameplay. I will respond
eventually if you follow all of these rules.
Do make a reasonable effort to use decent spelling, grammar, usage,
punctuation, and capitalization so that I can understand what you're trying to
say.
Do use patience. I check my messages rather sporadically.
Do not send spam, pornography, chain letters, "flaming," or anything that
contains profanity or vulgarity. Again, violating this rule will result in
deletion of the message and permanent constipation.

And lastly, a public service message: Fight for and affirm the rights of all
humans, regardless of race, age, or creed! And... Don't forget to buckle up
your seat belt when in the car and your helmet when you're on a bicycle or
motorcycle. No one's going to read this, anyway.

For Jim